Garrett T25 from SR20DET oil in turbo? plus intro

[BlackZ28629]

Hello all,
This is my first post--quick intro: My name is Adam, I have a SOHC 90 240 coupe. Planning on doing an SR swap in the coming months after refreshing the motor and such. This is my second 240. I also have a 99 Z28 that has an LS1 with tons of goodies. I've had several sports cars, but mainly muscle cars. I'm on several other forums, same name-although this is my first Nissan related forum.

I just got a redtop from a local shop and am breaking down everything replacing gaskets and seals, etc.
Took off the turbo and noticed that there is a ton of oil and oil/water mixture coming out of every orifice. When everything was on the motor, there was a small pool of oil in the inlet...didn't think too much of it...pulled everthing off (lines, manifold, etc.) and I noticed that a nut was missing in the mani-turbo flange-and it was loose as hell..weird. I've turned the turbo ever way (upside down, around, up, down, blah) and I just poured an oil/water mix out of the outlet. I also noticed there was oil coming from behind the inlet wheel and a little in the hole where it bolts to the manifold. Looks good on the exhaust side, no oil leaking there. The fins look good, and the shaft seems to be fine (has a small amount of play).

My question is this:
Is this normal for a used turbo that's been disconnected and moved around a lot? Or, are the seals inside the turbo bad/ does it need to be rebuilt? I've searched around and found nothing. Someone who knows more about turbos may be able to enlighten me..where does the oil and water reside? Will it come out of these places if jostled? Any help is much appreciated!

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[compactfean]

Did you inspect the tube going from valve cover to intake? It could be something as simple as needing a proper catch can setup. If your intake didn't have anything going to it from the valve cobber than id say the front ring on the turbo is trashed and needs a rebuild.

[BlackZ28629]

Yes, the intake tube was hooked up along with the stock black "catch can" on the other side..but why would it leak all the way through the fins and everything? I thought it was all seperate. I haven't ran the motor yet, this is as it sits as a " used JDM motorset"...didn't know if anyone else ran into this when breaking down theirs...don't wanna put a trashed turbo on and then not have it work when I drop it in the car...but don't really wanna buy another one either, lol...but I will rebuild or get another if I absolutley have to..

[compactfean]

Because when the engine is sucking in air, any blowby air/oil gets dumped into the intake. The turbo then sucks it up and throws is into the piping and intercooler. I have the ”ideal” oem catch can setup/routing that will eliminate this if you're interested. I would try and use the turbo because its very easy to install/remove so its worth a try.

[BlackZ28629]

I have an aftermarket catch can that I'm going to use, but I might hit you up if I don't use it..so should I just drain it and let the residue burn off or attempt to clean it out..what should I use to rinse it out? Thanks for the replies!

[compactfean]

Believe it or not, the stock catch can works better than most aftermarket ones because it has an element built into it already. Most aftermarket ones don't. IMO the stock routing is wrong. You can just use brake clean to clean it out. The front ”seal” is more like a piston ring.

[BlackZ28629]

Believe it or not, the stock catch can works better than most aftermarket ones because it has an element built into it already. Most aftermarket ones don't. IMO the stock routing is wrong. You can just use brake clean to clean it out. The front ”seal” is more like a piston ring.

So, I should use the stock catch can and place it between the air intake tube like where an aftermarket one would go and run the other side (stock location) directly to the block?

[compactfean]

That's kinda how I have mine setup. Mine goes valve cover to T between bottom of catch can and block, the top of catch can to intake. This way ALL the blow by gases go though the catch can. Not just the bottom portion with the valve cover not going through anything.

[BlackZ28629]

That's kinda how I have mine setup. Mine goes valve cover to T between bottom of catch can and block, the top of catch can to intake. This way ALL the blow by gases go though the catch can. Not just the bottom portion with the valve cover not going through anything.

So are you saying you put a T in at the bottom of the catch can? What kind of hose did ya use? Thanks!

[compactfean]

Yes, I used heater hose but I had to move it from the stock location because of my manifold though. Its pretty far away from the mani and secure but id your worried about the lines, just go stainless. You could probly do your whole catch can setup with a 3ft section. Since I've re routed it, I haven't had a drop of oil anywhere.

[BlackZ28629]

Cool, I'll try that out! I read a thread that you wrote discussing manifolds..did you go back to the stock cast mani or still running the XSPower(SSAutochrome) one? I'm torn between using the stocker or getting an aftermarket one...For now, I plan on running ~10-11psi, FMIC, stock MAF & injectors (but I may change my mind to 550cc injectors and Z32 MAF) MR turbo elbow & downpipe, test pipe, 3" all the way back. What would you recommend? Is the aftermarket mani worth it besides just for looks? I was looking at the XSPower "silk road style" mani or the MR mani..leaning more toward the Megan since more people have run them..I can't find any people that have ran the XS ones on SR's...I might as well just start a prep & build thread because I'm sure i will have many questions lol...

[compactfean]

My experience, xspower manis welds tend to crack. Tube manifolds are proven to have higher rpm hp. I'm on the ss auto manifold from like 10 years ago... Still. But I would look into what you are doing with the motor. If your going to stay with the stock turbo,.it would be more beneficial to stay with the stock intake and exhaust manifolds because they amplify the characteristic of the turbo. (maybe do a port to match and port the exhaust manifold) I have the equal length mani, and greddy intake mani but also am running a gt3071r turbo so the style manifolds I have help focus the power band higher. As far as 10-11 psi, stock maf and injectors can handle that (and if you want the stock turbo to last wouldn't goo much further than that.)

[BlackZ28629]

Yea I'm gonna be on the stock turbo for a while--then when I upgrade I'm prob. gonna do a top mount setup anyway so a mani would kinda be a waste of $ since I plan on going topmount in the future..port to match with a dremel?

[compactfean]

Lol, dremel takes to long.... Dye grinder. Use a dremel to put the finish sanding on it. Otherwise you will spend weeks.