Gargle Noise Coming from the Dash on accelerations

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bigdog76
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1996 Infinity Q45 .

Within the last 3-4 weeks I have been hearing a gargling noise coming from right behind the dash only when I accelerate. It doesnt matter if the A/C on or not still does it. Mainly on take offs once I get going up to speed I dont hear it .

Can this be related to my failing fuel pump? Anyone have this problem before?



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Defiant
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Shouldn't be fuel pump related. However, check the condensate drain line from the tray under the AC evaporator. Does the gargling give it fresh, minty breath?

maxnix
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Check you evaporator core drain first off. Does it work?

Have you changed your coolant lately or broken into the system?
Modified by maxnix at 11:39 AM 9/11/2006

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Q451990
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maxnix wrote:Have you changed your coolant lately or broken into the system?
This would be my place to check... Open the filler neck after the car is completely cool and make sure the coolant is to the top. I've had this before and it's always a low coolant situation.

Heath

bigdog76
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I have seen some posts on Engine knocking noise on acceration due to the ASCD acutator assembley. They say the noise travels down the cable which is connected to a bracket at the bulkhead. they say to put a zip tie on it and that should stop the noise. That was from a report that Infinity came out with.

bigdog76
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2nd Page

bigdog76
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Did the zip tie procedure about that didnt do it.I will check the fluid level under the cap. Any other suggestions?

qship96
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guarantee it is low coolant level- more urgent to find WHY? plenum hoses,rad hoses,leaky cap{s} or radiator,leaking overflow tank,faulty draincock,failing heater core,headgasket.... improper fill after a flush

bigdog76
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Filled up the coolant and it is still doing it any other suggestions??

maxnix
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bigdog76 wrote:Filled up the coolant and it is still doing it any other suggestions??
Purge the air in it.

qship96
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once the coolant level is refilled to correct,it may take a few days of driving to work itself out- try moving the temp selector from cold to hot a few times as you are driving to speed up "passing the gas"

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Jesda
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There's air in the coolant. Jacking up the front of the car and running it with the cap off while giving it a few revs may help (it did for me). Check out posts by gniknave and nistech for details on how to do it.

Or... your Q has morning breath and enjoys Listerine.
Modified by Jesda at 12:09 AM 9/13/2006

bigdog76
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I will give it another day or so but it still seems to be making that noise. I think it is alittle quiter but it is still there.

Ill let you know in a few days.

maxnix
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Well, the real danger in haveing air in the cooling system is that the engine can develop hot spots in the head and do severe damage from over heating.

So purge the system!

bigdog76
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Filled up the radator fluid and the noise is still strong.

What else could it be??

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Jesda
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I'd pay a professional to do a coolant flush, $60-$90.

maxnix
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bigdog76 wrote:Filled up the radator fluid and the noise is still strong.

What else could it be??
You still have air. Use distilled water and follow Jesda's advice. Don't use taqp water under any circumstance.

bigdog76
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I did use tap water. Would that cause a big problem?I have always used tap water and that never cause me a problem on any of my cars. Half and Half always worked fine for me.

maxnix
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Depends on the mineral content and pH where you live.

Aluminum is very reactive. You know there is a sacrificail anode in the system?

bigdog76
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Dealer told me to run the heater for a while and that should clear it up.He says there is air in there.

maxnix
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bigdog76 wrote:He says there is air in there.
Why we keep saying to purge the system.

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Defiant
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bigdog76 wrote:Dealer told me to run the heater for a while and that should clear it up.He says there is air in there.
Dealer tells ya that, eh? Does the dealer realize Datsu..... er, Nissan stopped using water valves on the heater in the late eighties, and temperature is adjusted by an air-routing door? The core's full-time, full-flow. And your dealer's fully-full, too. We won't say what of on this forum.

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infinititech1
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air in cooling system as everyone says....

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Skibane
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Defiant wrote:Dealer tells ya that, eh? Does the dealer realize Datsu..... er, Nissan stopped using water valves on the heater in the late eighties, and temperature is adjusted by an air-routing door? The core's full-time, full-flow.
Apparently, the guys who wrote the FSMs didn't get the memo either...

Quote »— DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT —1. Set the air conditioner system as follows to prevent coolantfrom remaining in the system.a. Turn ignition switch ON and set temperature controller to maximumHOT position.b. Wait 10 seconds before turning ignition switch OFF.2. Open drain c*** at the bottom of radiator and remove filler capabove radiator upper hose.[/quote]

bigdog76
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Fix was I opened the cap ran the car till some cooliant came out (of course while the car was initially cold and then I capped it.

Few days later the sound stopped and the cap stopped leaking after that.

qship96
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bigdog76 wrote:Fix was I opened the cap ran the car till some cooliant came out (of course while the car was initially cold and then I capped it.

Few days later the sound stopped and the cap stopped leaking after that.
KEY words you said"cap stopped leaking" if cap leaked,it also was not air-tight,allowing it to suck in air on cooldown.... why problem didnt go away before---Replace that cap if it was/is leaking,obviously has a bad seal...

bigdog76
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Thats exactly what I though before when I replace the cap before with a cheapo from autozone. To find out that one leaked on me too. Then I replace it with what is suppose to be a better one a staton cap and that to leak which out of no where stop and the noise went away too.

The radiator is not stock oem it has been replaced which should constitute me not having to have a oem cap but that might still be the better way to go down the road if this leaks again.

texasoil
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Both of the 'radiator caps' on the Q45 have to be the 'non vacuum vent' style. Otherwise, coolant heats up and burps to overflow as it should, but on cooldown, the venting cap sucks air back in ,not the coolant in the overflow tank!

maxnix
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bigdog76 wrote:1.) Thats exactly what I though before when I replace the cap before with a cheapo from autozone.

2.) The radiator is not stock oem it has been replaced which should constitute me not having to have a oem cap.
1.) Repeat your mantra, OEM OEM OEM OEM......

2.) That should be a non sequitor if the system is the same design.

Remember, OEM OEM OEM OEM

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Buy this and you overfill the funnel to let bubbles out while idling


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