G50 wheel offset, are they staggered?

[moshmoshi]

Hey guys, does anybody know if they are staggered? To me, they don'tlook like it. Infact, I just put some 18x8 G35 6 sp on and the back stick outmore than the front. I think their offsets are equal. It seems like the frontcan fit at least the same width as the back.

[Rex]

Are you asking if putting the same wheels/tires (front & rear) on a Q45 create a wider rear track than the front?

Gosh, I'm pretty sure an old edition of Car and Driver, Road & Track or MotorTrend somewhere has the front and rear track measurments???

[maxnix]

The FSM has the specifications.

Who cares about static looks when it is dynamic performance that counts? Can you see any of this while you are operating the vehicle?

[Haitian_King]

The FSM has the specifications.

Who cares about static looks when it is dynamic performance that counts? Can you see any of this while you are operating the vehicle?

No. But I imagine people outside are. And if they're not, why aren't they?

Vanity is my name.

[Haitian_King]

Hey guys, does anybody know if they are staggered? To me, they don'tlook like it. Infact, I just put some 18x8 G35 6 sp on and the back stick outmore than the front. I think their offsets are equal. It seems like the frontcan fit at least the same width as the back.

Eh. My stock rear wheels looks a tad wider than my fronts. Same wheels, possibly different tire widths? IDK, I bought the car like that and I never really worried about the wheels and tires as I planned to upgrade them to something nicer.

[Q45tech]

Like the mentally challenged G35 owners who worry about perfect ride height sitting still [parked] and don't realize that the drivers side drops 1" when they put their fat *** in the drivers seat. Or those that complain that the car changes full to empty of fuel.

Most vehicles are designed to be right with a 150 pound driver sitting seat.

[Haitian_King]

Like the mentally challenged G35 owners who worry about perfect ride height sitting still [parked] and don't realize that the drivers side drops 1" when they put their fat *** in the drivers seat. Or those that complain that the car changes full to empty of fuel.

Most vehicles are designed to be right with a 150 pound driver sitting seat.

I was looking at my Q the other day and I came to the conclusion that I'm not really too concerned with the current height. After I add a larger diameter wheel/tire combo, I don't want the car to look all tall and stupid. The jump from stock wheel to about an 18-19 inch wheel wouldn't raise the car too much right? I saw my friend's 93 Maxima that he put 20's on. It looks like you can push it over.

[StarPD]

I was looking at my Q the other day and I came to the conclusion that I'm not really too concerned with the current height. After I add a larger diameter wheel/tire combo, I don't want the car to look all tall and stupid. The jump from stock wheel to about an 18-19 inch wheel wouldn't raise the car too much right? I saw my friend's 93 Maxima that he put 20's on. It looks like you can push it over.

The correct way to alter wheel size is to compensate by changing the aspect ratio of the tire to give the same static loaded and rolling radius. Larger than stock OD results in o'all effective gearing change, and sometimes dramatic changes in vehicle dynamics. Care must be taken to ensure that the tire/wheel combo weight is not increased, as this can reduce acceleration, fuel economy. ride, and handling characterisitics.

Besides, bigger tire/wheel combos can make a Q look dorky, as can excessive lowering and rear cambering.

"Moderation in all things........"

Oh, and I noticed no appearance of staggering on my '94 "t" model with factory BBS "snowflake" wheels, nor on my '05 with equally sized aftermarket 18" wheels.

[Haitian_King]

The correct way to alter wheel size is to compensate by changing the aspect ratio of the tire to give the same static loaded and rolling radius. Larger than stock OD results in o'all effective gearing change, and sometimes dramatic changes in vehicle dynamics. Care must be taken to ensure that the tire/wheel combo weight is not increased, as this can reduce acceleration, fuel economy. ride, and handling characterisitics.

Besides, bigger tire/wheel combos can make a Q look dorky, as can excessive lowering and rear cambering.

"Moderation in all things........"

Oh, and I noticed no appearance of staggering on my '94 "t" model with factory BBS "snowflake" wheels, nor on my '05 with equally sized aftermarket 18" wheels.

I also bought my Q from an import dealer and he had put two new tires on the front. I'm slightly embarrassed to have an unmatched set of tires, but I had more pressing issues regarding the engine. I'm looking into possible wheel/tire combos for the summer. I have my eye on a set of chrome 18x8.5 BBS wheels, but I think I'd like a 9 or 9.5 in the rear. Minimal sidewall visible, but not a reduction that looks like a rubber band on the wheel.

[qship96]

BBS wheels and suitable tires in 18" is alot of cake.....I would suggest sticking with the same width {8-8.5} all around so you can rotate tires to maximise treadlife

[Haitian_King]

BBS wheels and suitable tires in 18" is alot of cake.....I would suggest sticking with the same width {8-8.5} all around so you can rotate tires to maximise treadlife

I found a nice chrome set for $995. That's not too bad right? Beats paying $1500-2000 for a set of used VIP wheels.

[jimbyjimb]

Couple'a questions: Are the factory BBS wheels lighter than other stock wheels? The only BBS wheels I've had my hands on were off a 97 BMW 5 series, and boy oh boy were those LIGHT! If the Factory Q wheels are similar count me in! Question 2: About halfshafts- How strong are these stock units? Any trouble with you hot-rodders breakin' em'? I love the ride and handling of an IRS but none of them hold up like a solid axle. I doubt I'll ever push the car hard enough to matter, I'm just curious in case I end up doing so.

[StarPD]

N

Couple'a questions: Are the factory BBS wheels lighter than other stock wheels? The only BBS wheels I've had my hands on were a 97 BMW 5 series, and boy oh boy were those LIGHT! If the Factory Q wheels are similar count me in! Question 2: About halfshafts- How strong are these stock units? Any trouble with you hot-rodders breakin' em'? I love the ride and handling of an IRS but none of them hold up like a solid axle. I doubt I'll ever push the car hard enough to matter, I'm just curious in case I end up doing so.

Not sure about the weight diff between Factory BBS and standard wheels. I think the only way to know is to have someone that has both to weigh them. Note that the factory BBS wheels are 15" only, and really good tires in that size are now harder to come by than they were years back.

As of for the half-shafts, the Q is not suited well for drag racing, and doing it is considered abuse. Brake-torquing is hard on the driveline, and revving in neutral and dropping it into gear will play havoc with the entire driveline even worse. They will tolerate NoS and turbocharging, as several members have used and still do use them both. I suspect however they are judicious in their use of the added power and probably refrain from standing start drags for the most part. I wouldn't worry too much about the half-shafts unless you plan to drag race, in which case a different car would be more suitable.

[Rex]

I found a nice chrome set for $995. That's not too bad right? Beats paying $1500-2000 for a set of used VIP wheels.

BBS chrome (or not) for that price will almost certainly not be forged, so at that point, you're not really getting the full benefit of "BBS". Don't get me wrong BBS makes high quality wheels, but if they're not forged, you're buying high quality heavy wheels.

IMHO, I'd opt for another (quality) brand of forged over the BBS non-forged.

[Haitian_King]

BBS chrome (or not) for that price will almost certainly not be forged, so at that point, you're not really getting the full benefit of "BBS". Don't get me wrong BBS makes high quality wheels, but if they're not forged, you're buying high quality heavy wheels.

IMHO, I'd opt for another (quality) brand of forged over the BBS non-forged.

I'm at a loss when it comes to wheels. At first, I thought wheels were wheels. After being on the board, I've learned that there are many differences. It boggles the mind.

My ideal wheel is a BBS/basketweave mesh style wheel in a chrome finish. Something around 18-19 inches and I'm optioning a staggered setup. Minimal sidewall, but not a tiny low profile tire.

I'm confused and overwhelmed by the vast amount of choices and their consequences.

[Q45tech]

Unless you want to change the oem suspension design best to make sure what ever wheel you buy DOES NOT EXCEED oem wheel weight.

Note that oem had to spend serious money [aluminum suspension arms] to just maintain performance with larger wheels on newer cars.They gained very little in the process due to heavier rotors/calipers to stop heavier wheels.

We have been seeing earlier wheel bearing failures [compared to old Q/J] due to wheel weight. [the bearings are of the same design and size] all that is different is wheel weight!................and larger wheels having more width and curb hits due to less sidewall area.

Tires and wheels have become a very serious cost factor in modern vehicles compared to old 14,15,16"............it has doubled/tripled the annual cost assuming you are using the same class of tires $100 vs $200-$300 each.

Buying big tires/wheels is a serious statement that you are an ecologically wasteful person and care nothing for enviroment or money, shows where your priorities are. All Flash.

Just like business won't hire smokers due to lost days and insurance cost, showing up with REALLY BIG wheels means you probably won't have business interest at heart.......................and might steal to pay for tires?..............think I'm not serious had just this conversation with an HR executive on a recent plane trip. They attempt to gleen what you drive and why.

Keeping and driving an 18 year old car is all how you explain it!

http://www.shrm.org/http://bpubs.tradep ... ra....html

[Haitian_King]

While I am narcissistic and have a penchant for flash, I also do have a conservative side as well. Oversized wheels tend to stop being classy.

I'm not looking to go huge. But larger than my current OEM wheels.

Is that a bad thing?

[Q45tech]

Depends on wheel, quality, weight, balance, and strength.Only you can save your wheel bearings and shocks and rubber isolators.

If it takes 1-2 extra HP to accelerate the way you are use to , you get to pay the extra gasoline say 1 pound or 1/6 of a gallon or 60 cents it costs.

Add about $150-$220 per year for fuel cost depending on weight.

I have seen really big wheels which might add $500 per year, you can just feel it driving the car.

[Haitian_King]

Depends on wheel, quality, weight, balance, and strength.Only you can save your wheel bearings and shocks and rubber isolators.

If it takes 1-2 extra HP to accelerate the way you are use to , you get to pay the extra gasoline say 1 pound or 1/6 of a gallon or 60 cents it costs.

Add about $150-$220 per year for fuel cost depending on weight.

I have seen really big wheels which might add $500 per year, you can just feel it driving the car.

$500 a year isn't so bad.

I just want my car to look nicer, without serious detriment to it. I know that there's a slight negative cost to deviating from OEM, but I need to know what I can do without really damaging anything.