G50: Fuel Leak - Replaced Fuel Pump and Stripped Screw

[lino]

I replaced my fuel pump 4 months ago and stripped one of the screws in the process. I took the car to a gas tank repair specialist to replace the screw and now there is a leak. The smell of gas in the car is real strong. I ran my fingers on top of the gas tank and I discovered the leak where the screw is.

Any suggestions on how to temporarily fix this and what to do for a proper fix?

Thanks in advance

Here is a pic of what I'm talking about:

[Q451990]

I'm thinking use a slightly larger sheet metal screw?

Heath

[lino]

That's the only thing I can think of too. I just want to do it properly and not have to revisit this problem again. I thought they fixed it the first time, but obviously it didn't work.

Any ideas on a temporary fix, since I won't be able to get an appointmnet before Tuesday or Wednesday?

[maxnix]

I'm thinking use a slightly larger sheet metal screw?

Heath

I disagree wth Heath. I think you need to pull the tank and retap it at least, if not replace the tank if not the fitting.

[Q451990]

My guess is that it's the tank that's stripped, not the bolt. I don't remember the configuration exactly, but I think it's just a thin metal lip with a couple of threads in it... nothing substantial there to retap. I guess you could try to tap it one size larger.

Of course the optimal fix would be to replace everything, but I don't know that the benefit is there assuming the slightly larger sheetmetal screw would work. If nothing else, trying the easy thing first can't hurt anything since it's already messed up.

Heath

[maxnix]

My concern is that the sheet metal screw won't seal, and it will be impossible to get even torque, or more importantly, clamping pressure on the O ring.

When it comes to fuel systems, especially inside the car, it is best not to jerry-rig it.
Modified by maxnix at 9:07 AM 7/14/2007

[Q45denver]

I had that happen several years ago when I replaced mine. Very little torque needs to be applied. More important that it be applied evenly. I think I used a slightly larger screw and applied some locktite to the treads. Or you could probably just fill it in and retap it. You might check to see they didn't pinch the O-ring as well.

[StarPD]

Maybe some fuel-proof silicone sealant or some liquid gasket along with a slightly larger screw?It's worth a try.

[DrewQ45]

Excellent advice given by all here. Each worthy of consideration. If you retap, be diligent that metal shavings do not fall in the tank. Temporarily place duct tape below the hole.

[texasoil]

Not to panic simple fix-use slightly larger self tapping metal screw, with gas tank leak fixing epoxy around the threads and under the head. THe 'leak fixing' epoxy is permanent and certain seal. Been used for many years and will permanently fix leaks up to 1/4" in dia.

[elwesso]

The question is, if it needs to be disassembled again how will something like that effect it?

[Q45tech]

Have seen a few permanent fixes with epoxy, just requires a new fuel tank* when the next pump on level sender fails.

* No more new oem fuel tanks available in US so you must buy a junker Q to remove the tank most junk yards scrap tanks as an enviromential/ safety hazard.

[maxnix]

Have seen a few permanent fixes with epoxy, just requires a new fuel tank* when the next pump on level sender fails.

* No more new oem fuel tanks available in US so you must buy a junker Q to remove the tank most junk yards scrap tanks as an enviromential/ safety hazard.

Fudgearooney! Guess I will be prowling for another tank soon.

[StarPD]

Fudgearooney! Guess I will be prowling for another tank soon.

Not necessarily. Just use a good RTV sealant/adhesive. Most seal quite well, but can be removed if necessary, and reapplied for further repairs.

[Q45tech]

Test the RTV with various gasoline formulae especially ethanol.