G50: Drive Shaft / Carrier Bearing Replacement

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lino
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This afternoon right after I just discovered that my drive shafts had ripped boots and were leaking, I also found out that my carrier bearing needs to be replaced. I'm wondering if anyone has replaced their propeller shaft or has anyone replaced the carrier bearing before?

Pricing:

Part Number ---------DESCRIPTION --------------------------List Price ----I.O.S Price
37000-70U10 --------SHAFT ASSY - PROPELLER-------------$840.42 -------$682.84
37521-6P025 --------BEARING KIT - CENTER-----------------$161.67 -------$121.25

Their are many part numbers for the G50 propeller shaft. Below are the part numbers for the non-TCS version cars. The reason why I bring this up is because after speaking with Wes, he brought it to my attention that the 1990-1993 version was updated to a newer part that was better, even though you can still get pricing on most of the older part numbers. Not all of the part numbers superseded.

37000-60U05 ----------------SHAFT ASSY - PROPELLER
Prod.M/Y:0889-0790 -------supersedes to 37000-60U99 and then to 37000-70U00

37000-64U00 ----------------SHAFT ASSY - PROPELLER
Prod.M/Y:0790-0192 -------supersedes to 37000-64U01

37000-64U01 ----------------SHAFT ASSY - PROPELLER
Prod.M/Y:0192-0692 -------supersedes to 37000-64U10

37000-64U10 ----------------SHAFT ASSY - PROPELLER
Prod.M/Y:0692-0594 -------supersedes to 37000-70U00

37000-70U00 ----------------SHAFT ASSY - PROPELLER
Prod.M/Y:0594-0296 -------supersedes to 37000-70U10

37000-70U10 ----------------SHAFT ASSY - PROPELLER
Prod.M/Y:0296-

If you buy the updated part for your early model Q, you have to buy the following parts to:

Part Number ---DESCRIPTION -------------------------------List Price ----I.O.S Price
37511-66U00 ---BRACKET - CENTER BEARING -------------$45.62---------- $34.21
37512-66U00 ---BRACKET - CENTER BEARING--------------$45.62---------- $34.21
01553-01A50 ---CLAMP -PROPELLER SHAFT BALANCE----$0.97------------$0.72
Last edited by lino on Thu Aug 12, 2010 3:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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lino
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Q451990
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It was always my understanding that the drive shaft parts were not available separately... could be wrong though. Has yours been replaced in the past? Your '91 came from the factory with a smaller carrier bearing than the later models, and the original part was superceded by the newer design - so if it hasn't been replaced in the past I feel sure the bearing would not be available.

Heath

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lino
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I still have the original one. Mine was never replaced before.

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lino
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Found these threads that are all related. I suppose this will help anyone who doesn't have the time to search or is too lazy :squint::

Finally!
finally-t170950.html

Lets talk driveshafts
lets-talk-driveshafts-t167006.html

Early G50 drive shaft upgrade
early-g50-drive-shaft-upgrade-t201042.html

HELP!!!! transmission mount replaced today and now the car vibrates under acceler!!!
help-transmission-mount-replaced-today-and-no ... 37244.html

Early G50 driveshaft upgrade... fix that vibration cheaply!
early-g50-driveshaft-upgrade-fix-that-v ... 49209.html

transmission replaced--- now has vibration.
transmission-replaced-now-has-vibration-t259947.html

Vibration on '92 Q45-
post2943565.html

Help! Need driveline part!
help-need-driveline-part-t276940.html




People known to have replaced the driveshaft with a new oem one (not a lot):
Q45denver wrote:"any driveshaft OR center bearing you get will be the redesigned 94 design. if you have a 90-93 you will have to buy the brackets, if you have a 94 you wont have to buy the brackets...."

My quote button doesn't work anymore. I had someone install a new OEM shaft on my 1990 a year ago. I'm sure they didn't replace the bracket unless it came with the shaft that I got from Joe.
Peterofdevon wrote:I bought a new one from Joe (to try to solve a vib---it was not the shaft)

I'll sell mine---nothing wrong with it. Have the shipping carton from the new one.

$100 plus ship.

Peter

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Q451990
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Replaced mine on "Q1" back in '00 or '01. Moved it to Q2.

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lino
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Does anyone know the part number for the rear seal that needs to be replaced when doing this job?

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Infinitiguy19
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I don't have a part number but is this it: http://www.infinitipartsusa.com/partloc ... atalogid=0

DrewQ45
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lino wrote:I still have the original one. Mine was never replaced before.
Hey folks, hope all is well...it's been a looooong time. Jeez, didn't know I had so many drivehshaft posts out there..LOL

Lino, rebuilding an old shaft is not really an option as even when you put the parts on, they have to be fully balanced - an expensive undertaking. Q45Tech spoke of this years back and you might see it in some of the many links you found. Aftermarkets are less expensive than OEM, but still quite costly and half the time they still vibe. The old 90-93 shafts are very fragile due to the rubber drying out around the bearing and moreso, due to the way they are constructed. The things rip like paper after a while. Now with the 94' and up, the centerline bearing rubbers are quite good and tend to stay supple. Under visual inspection, you'll see that the rubber is also double-walled, like a donut, versus 90-93 which I would liken to half a donut. I believe I had a pic out there comparing the two.

Your best option is used 94+ and at the risk of sounding opportunistic, I happen to have one sitting on my garage floor if you are interested. In either case, when you install, it's good to have a helper watching to make sure that centerline mount bracket does not catch on something while you manuever into place. Can't tell you how many I ripped that way until I finally got it through my thick head.

Good luck in getting it all resolved. I know how irritating it can be

...Drew...

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lino
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Nice to see you around here Drew :yesnod. Thanks for the post. I'll definitely be going with the 94+ design and not aftermarket when I'm ready. After all the reading and learning, it only makes sense.
DrewQ45 wrote:In either case, when you install, it's good to have a helper watching to make sure that centerline mount bracket does not catch on something while you manuever into place. Can't tell you how many I ripped that way until I finally got it through my thick head.
So any tricks or additional steps to take to minimize risk?

DrewQ45
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Well, install is simple, just use lots of common sense. When you pull off the old one, sometimes it's stiff coming off the transmission. You loosen the center mount then bend it down slightly and then yank it out the end from the transmission shaft. I think by then you should have also pulled the end off the diff. When you put it on, you just need someone guiding the centerline bracket so it doesn't catch on anything. You first connect the end going to the transmission (line up the splines.) Just before you push it on, make sure the centerline bracket doesn't catch on anything as this is when you are most likely to rip the rubber. You then mount the center. If I remember, there are two permanently mounted bolts sticking out from the chassis and you guide the bracket which surrounds the centerline bearings over these. Just catch the bolts without tightening everything at first. Be sure to put back the spacer washers as youfound them... you don't want anything misaligning it. Finally you hook up the four bolts on the end going to the diff. Use locking washers. Straight line from front to back! Of course this is all from memory so take it all with a grain of salt. If you want my shaft (no pun intended) it's $120 + ship.

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lino
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When doing this job, what is the part number for the real seal that should be replaced? I'm wondering if it's this one. Can anyone please verify?

From I.O.S.:
Automatic Transmission - Extension Housing Seal, Q45 1990 - 1993
Part Number: 32136-01G10
Price: $9.10

From FAST:
Part Number: 32136-01G10
Description: SEAL - OIL , REAR EXTENSION
Prod.M/Y: 0790-0293

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Q451990
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I have never replaced those seals... the only one I would be absolutely certain to replace is the rear main seal on the engine if I pulled the transmission.

Heath

qship96
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replace transmission tailshaft seal, part is about $10.....IOS will know the part #- takes 30 seconds to replace once transmission is disconnected from driveshaft.

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lino
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qship96 wrote:replace transmission tailshaft seal, part is about $10.....IOS will know the part #- takes 30 seconds to replace once transmission is disconnected from driveshaft.
So based on my previous post, are we talking about the same part?

qship96
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hard to tell as the diagram is so small, but IOS will know the part, as there is only 1 seal that goes in the tailshaft.....

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BCC93QT
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any thoughts on a Carbon fiber driveshaft?

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lino
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BCC93QT wrote:any thoughts on a Carbon fiber driveshaft?
Here's what others had to say:

4:11 gears for the Q where oh where can i get them
post1521399.html?hilit=CARBON%20FIBER%2 ... T#p1521399

Lets talk driveshafts
post1714778.html?hilit=CARBON%20FIBER%2 ... T#p1714778

Back to New Q?
post3496648.html?hilit=CARBON%20FIBER%2 ... T#p3496648

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Infinitiguy19
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1994 Infiniti Q45a 240000 Miles

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Carbon Fiber Driveshaft- $1200

ACPT makes a carbon fiber driveshaft that will decrease ¼ mile times by about .1 to .2 seconds.Please contact ACPT for more information.
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/q45-pe ... tions.html


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