G37/370Z Sport Akebono Kit installed 06' M45

Forum for Infiniti M35 and M45, and Nissan Fuga owners.
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ken in az
Posts: 1280
Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:18 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M56
2002 Chevy Silverado
1989 Nissan 300ZX
2008 Ford F250 Diesel/Canam X3 Turbo

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Just finished up last night.

The fronts fit the M45 as a true bolt on affair. No modifications needed. If you are doing the swap - I recomend to get the Stainless Steel Brake Lines. Goodridge lines are only $170ish from infinitipartsusa.com and they are a forum sponsor. These lines will work with the new calipers 100%. If you wanted to cheap out you can utilize your stock lines as they work 100% with the Infiniti Calipers but if you were to use the 370Z calipers you'd need to get a shorter banjo bolt for the caliper fitting.

I was really surprized the front dust shield/splash gaurd didn't need any modifications! Off with the old - on with the new. Caliper alignment is perfect, way easier to change your pads as you don't have to remove the caliper with the akebono.

Rears fit with only a slight mod to the dust shield/slpash gaurd. The guard actually covers the back of the rear rotor and has a lip that seemingly, for a lack of a better word, "cups" the rotor which interfere's with the new larger rotor. I went with the tried and true American Way - maximum result, minimum effort, most expensive option of just hitting them with my plasma cutter and it made quick work of the shields. You could cut them anyway you seem fit but it's a minor modification at most. Other than that it is a direct swap. Same thing holds true for the brake lines - stockers work fine except with the 370Z calipers - just need the shorter banjo bolt to work corectly.

I have some pictures - but I started on the brakes yesterday and it was 114 F outside and probably hotter in the garage. I really wanted to get some good install shots - but because it was so hot out it turned into a just get it done as fast as possible type of thing.

In reality - it's as bolt on as they come other than the cutting of the rear dust shield. If you can change your rotors - then this is as easy as that just have to bleed the system afterwards.

Driving behaviors - so far as smooth as silk. I was betting that the drilled and slotted option would make them noisey - but they don't at all. They are as quiet as stock.

I went out and did the bed in procedure - first couple of stops were nothing short of average, but once they got hot "Dang" they threw me aginst the seatbelt pretty darn good. I could definitely tell when they got bedded into the rotor.

How much better over stock? - probably not too much better as I previously stated I really got them for looks and to get away from the warping rotor syndrome these car inherently have. They are definitely not worse that is for sure.

Rotor weights for those that were wondering.

Stock Front rotor = 22lbs Akebono F D & S = 28.8lbsStock rear rotor = 14lbs Akebono R D & S = 19lbs

Yes you are adding rotational weight - bad I know....but they are developing a 2 piece rotor that weighs in at 18lbs for the front! I have held it in my hand - they are sweet! The rears are still in the design stage but they are in development as well.

I wish I would have weighed the calipers - even with the massive size of the Akebono calipers they are still aliminum vs Iron for the stock calipers. If I had to bet - the Akebono's were significantly lighter than the stock iron counterparts which offsets some of the weight gain with the rotors.

Has the acceleration degraded? Probably slightly but I wasn't able to feel a difference on the butt dyno.

How'd you get the stock wheels the clear? - easy, 20mm spacers front are needed at a minimum. You could probably get away with 18mm. With the 20mm spacer I have a little less than 5mm clearance but to be honest - it looks way closed than that and I don't recomend anything less than 20mm spacer for the front. The rear has plenty of clerance. I didn't try but I'd assume that you don't need a spacer in the rear but you should use one anyway otherwise your car would look funny driving down the road with the fronts pushed out flush and the rears tucked in.

Pics to follow when I get home tonight


Backdoc7
Posts: 197
Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:50 pm

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nice write-up! cant wait for pic's.

EcstaSPT
Posts: 97
Joined: Wed Jun 03, 2009 9:38 am
Location: Houston

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Do both the front and rear caliper pistons press straight in or do you have to screw them?

User avatar
ken in az
Posts: 1280
Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:18 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M56
2002 Chevy Silverado
1989 Nissan 300ZX
2008 Ford F250 Diesel/Canam X3 Turbo

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EcstaSPT wrote:Do both the front and rear caliper pistons press straight in or do you have to screw them?
They completely replace the stock caliper. 2 bolts secure the caliper to the hub.

NitroNollie
Posts: 12
Joined: Mon Nov 23, 2009 3:58 pm

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I am looking to do this same thing. Where did you get your patrs from? What is the cost for all this stuff?

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trayday
Posts: 100
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:37 pm
Car: 2006 M45 sport
Location: Oregon

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whats up with the pics


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