G35 Codes

[pfarmer]

I took my 08 G35 xs into the dealer today to have it checked since on occasion the car will not start right off when the button is pushed. That is I am careful about making sure the brake is push in and then the button is pushed. Nothing occurs as far as the car starting but the lights etc. light up as expected. Push it a second or third time and it will at some point start up.

Been occurring for about a month now off and on. Yesterday it did it three times so that is why I took it in today, when of course it decided to behave.

However they said they found a bunch of codes and were on the phone to some unknown place to see what they mean. Meanwhile I have a loaner 08 EX35.

Now the question is, shouldn't a dealer have all the info they need on hand to be able to tell what a code means without going outside their dealership? Is there a list of codes available online someplace (they did not give me any of the codes).

My first thought is the brake switch that indicates the brake peddle has been pushed, but then the dash lights up like it has most of the time (once it did not). A couple of times it sounds like the starter was bumped and then quit, until I push the button a couple of times more. Seems to crank ok when it finally does although it seems slower to me than the EX which may be normal.

Perry

[telcoman]

I took my 08 G35 xs into the dealer today to have it checked since on occasion the car will not start right off when the button is pushed.

Is the shift lever in park?

.. I am careful about making sure the brake is push in and then the button is pushed. Nothing occurs as far as the car starting but the lights etc. light up as expected. Push it a second or third time and it will at some point start up.

Both the shift lever must be in park and the brake pedal must be firmly depressed.

However they said they found a bunch of codes and were on the phone to some unknown place to see what they mean.

You should have asked them for the codes they were referring to?

Read the section in your owners manual "Starting the Engine" to make sure you are not missing something.

I bought one of these at Amazon to keep an eye on mine.



Telcoman

[G_whizz]

Until a tech chimes in...hopefully this will help!

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=182299

[Poyzinous]

Well perry, when we encounter an unusual problem with no immediate or known fix, we call infiniti tech support to see why we get certain codes. Or they could be calling to report some unusual thing they found. The push button is only like $50 or $60. But when I drive a loaner, sometimes nothing happens, then i relax, push brake, push button in all the way, and hold it for half a second. cuz honeslty sometimes the brake is only 1mm of the way down, and i gently stroke the button instead of pushing it.

[awdjdmtalon]

We have run into that a few times here at VW. Even the test plans loaded in the scan tool by VW does not know what they were.

[pfarmer]

Well perry, when we encounter an unusual problem with no immediate or known fix, we call infiniti tech support to see why we get certain codes. Or they could be calling to report some unusual thing they found. The push button is only like $50 or $60. But when I drive a loaner, sometimes nothing happens, then i relax, push brake, push button in all the way, and hold it for half a second. cuz honeslty sometimes the brake is only 1mm of the way down, and i gently stroke the button instead of pushing it.

The loaner is working fine. Tomorrow I pick up the G. What they told me is they have created a file on it and I will get a copy of the file. They were not able to recreate the problem however they have the codes that indicate what it appears to think is wrong.

Over the phone I was told the codes were associated with 'different key'.

Of course consider that the key is the same key all the time and I get in the car just fine............ The explanation given to me is that the frequency for getting in the car is different than the one the immobilizer uses so getting in the car doesn't seem to matter that much in regard to the starting problem. I was told that certain interferences could be possible and a cell tower is one of those that maybe could interefer.

The only possible inteference I can readily think of would be my cell phone. I haven't paid attention if it has been on or off when the starting episodes have occurred. I'll pay attention to that now to see if this could be a factor. Since I live a long ways away from normal transmission towers then any other source except one seems remote. The phone does cause my sound system in my other car to sound off at certain times, usually when acquiring the network. Because I live right at the edge of reception this can occur simply walking around the yard.

Now the one I don't know about is one that I have encountered here before - Fort Lewis. Several years back whenever certain exercises were taking place my television was pretty much wiped out. This was before my sat tv days, so not sure of any similar recent activity but who knows. The problem with this idea is that it has also happened away from the house as well. Anyway for now it is a phantom. I hope it either goes away or if it is going to crop up again I hope the car simply refuses to start in some safe place like my front yard.

Perry

[Poyzinous]

That is true. Mr computer in your car changes the code with your key to keep the spark alive , so to speak. And its recommended that you keep your Ikey away from your phone or pda or EMP devices. It can interfere and it looks to the ecm like the key has lipstick or the scent or binary coding of another electronic device, and that doesn't look good when the Ikey is married to the ecm.

[kmckis1029]

i have noticed my ikey range is shorter since i got my new cell phone, the Omnia. if i have my cell by the key i have to literally take my key out of my pocket to start my car when im on the inside. before it didnt matter if my key was in my pocket or in the passenger seat (yeah sometimes i leave my ikey in my jacket and throw the jacket to the passenger seat)

could be batteries also... has been 7 months of use... what is the average battery life suppose to be on the ikey? (i replaced the batteries when i first brought my car)

[Poyzinous]

Its hard to say an average, but My battery has lasted 8 months. Some people are extreme OCD and click their buttons 43 times the second its within eye contact, or 24 times as they are walking away from it.

[pfarmer]

That is true. Mr computer in your car changes the code with your key to keep the spark alive , so to speak. And its recommended that you keep your Ikey away from your phone or pda or EMP devices. It can interfere and it looks to the ecm like the key has lipstick or the scent or binary coding of another electronic device, and that doesn't look good when the Ikey is married to the ecm.

The problem I see with the phone causing trouble is that it never has in the past, only this last month.

Now I got the G back today and these are the codes that were found:

B210C PNP RELAY OFFB210E STARTER RELAY OFFB2110 INTRLCK /PNP SW OFF

States all codes found in past.

The key battery was replaced today due to it now showing the little key symbol on the display right after I drove away from the dealer, even though the range for unlocking the car was still a good hundred feet or so.

The car seems to be cranking faster now which I am not sure what that really means. Maybe with all of their checking of the various systems they accidently fixed it, I hope.

Perry

[Poyzinous]

B210C and B210E are pretty much almost the same thing. Those codes go off because your car's IPDM detects an open circuit with your relay, even if its just for a second. It happens if your clutch interlock switch or park neutral position switch is sending an off signal, meaning for a Manual trans, the clutch isn't depressed, so It wont let you start the car, or in an automatic, when the car isn't in park or neutral. It could also be caused by a weak battery or a malfunctioning IPDM or even BCM if it wont accept signal. I doubt its a computer malfunction, so it could be as simple as one of the switches being glitchy, so it would be a simple fix. However, I once had an M45 that was suffering a similar problem to yours, and the switches were fine, so I had no idea what the problem could be. I noticed that when i put it from neutral to drive, it would engage drive before it clicked into drive position. I got curious and lifted the car. Then i saw the problem. The shift lever was just half a centimeter off alignment. So when you put it into park, the switch would be just nanowidths from accepting signal. Basically, the driver of the car would proably SLAM the car into drive or park, instead of using normal force to slide it into a desired position, so he sort of knocked it loose a bit. To his defense, he was a pretty huge guy, and could probably lift his car to change a flat. Anyway, I simply tightened the lever at its correct position, and problem was solved. Your other code, B2110 comes on if the signals dont concur with each other, specifically the communication between your BCM, PNPS and IPDM. It could be just a wire thats a little loose in its connector, or one of the switches malfunctioning. Did I type too much? Did you understand all of that perry?

[kmckis1029]

im going to change the battery then. that should help my reception. im glad they fixed his problem and thats is good info about how they key works. i wanted to uae my engineering degree to design and develope car electronics, but its all up north and i love the south east. the closest car engineering plant is bmw in south carolina. im not a fan of that state either.

[pfarmer]

Did I type too much? Did you understand all of that perry?

Nope!

The loaner did show me one thing and that is it appears that the brakes will make up the logic faster than mine does. For the brakes is this pressure or a switch position based on brake pedal?

The second interesting thing is a couple of times it would start to start but fail instantly, like just a very particial crank. When this occurred the dash would start to move, then stop in its tracks. The lights on the dash have always lit up with the exception of once or twice when it was like you were turning it on just to listen to the radio.

Anyway I am paying really close attention to how everything looks when I start it to see if I can catch anything of interest.

Perry

[Poyzinous]

I wonder if this is what you mean. If you stick your head under the dash and look at your pedals, this goes for all new infinitis, you'll notice that there are 2 switches on the brake pedal. One is the brake light switch and the other is the brake position switch, to let the transmission shift, since it wont let you shift out of park if the brake isn't applied or start the car if not applied. They are adjustable, with about 12 different notches so you can make the brake lights go on by pushing down the pedal just 2 mm or you can have a whole inch of play. I don't really recommend any of you guys here do it but the switch is simple to remove. turn it counterclockwise and pull it out. It comes out easy. you can pull up a tiny bit to make it more sensitive or push it in further to make it less sensitive, since the switch will open with more pedal movement.

[pfarmer]

I wonder if this is what you mean. If you stick your head under the dash and look at your pedals, this goes for all new infinitis, you'll notice that there are 2 switches on the brake pedal. One is the brake light switch and the other is the brake position switch, to let the transmission shift, since it wont let you shift out of park if the brake isn't applied or start the car if not applied. They are adjustable, with about 12 different notches so you can make the brake lights go on by pushing down the pedal just 2 mm or you can have a whole inch of play. I don't really recommend any of you guys here do it but the switch is simple to remove. turn it counterclockwise and pull it out. It comes out easy. you can pull up a tiny bit to make it more sensitive or push it in further to make it less sensitive, since the switch will open with more pedal movement.

It did it again (twice) today.

Now you raise two interesting points. One is the shift lever position issue you mentioned on the customer's M. Mine will indicate 'D' almost as soon as you move it out of 'N'. This is a little different then 'P' however. If you move it just a tiny bit out of 'P' you will end up with nothing indicated at all. A little more and then 'R' shows up. So I am going to pay attention to this direction.

I am still sort of looking more at the brake issue. Typically I have the problem when it is cold and has not yet run (but not always). As soon as you get even a partial crank brake pedal pressure decreases (which I would expect) and the brakes are easier to apply further. The other thing that points me in this direction is your comment about shifting the car into gear with the brake pedal applied. On several occasions it seemed to me that the car will not shift out of park as expected. I have always put this off to me not pulling the lock on the shift lever all the way. Maybe this has been the wrong assumption, pointing to the lockout switch instead. Something for me to look at for an easy fix.

Perry

[pfarmer]

I wonder if this is what you mean. If you stick your head under the dash and look at your pedals, this goes for all new infinitis, you'll notice that there are 2 switches on the brake pedal. One is the brake light switch and the other is the brake position switch, to let the transmission shift, since it wont let you shift out of park if the brake isn't applied or start the car if not applied. They are adjustable, with about 12 different notches so you can make the brake lights go on by pushing down the pedal just 2 mm or you can have a whole inch of play. I don't really recommend any of you guys here do it but the switch is simple to remove. turn it counterclockwise and pull it out. It comes out easy. you can pull up a tiny bit to make it more sensitive or push it in further to make it less sensitive, since the switch will open with more pedal movement.

I looked today and spotted two switches. One has a black plunger and is short. I am able to easily clear this switch with hand pressure on the pedal. I has a antitamper type of paint mark on it. I assume this is the switch for the brake lights?

The other one has a longer white plunger. I am thinking this is the brake position one you mention. Am I correct? It doesn't seem to have any paint on it.

Perry

[Poyzinous]

off the top of my head i'm not sure perry. I think the right one is brake switch. Push the white plunger in while the car is on. If you hear the trans safety lever release, its the trans switch, the other one would be the brake light switch

[pfarmer]

off the top of my head i'm not sure perry. I think the right one is brake switch. Push the white plunger in while the car is on. If you hear the trans safety lever release, its the trans switch, the other one would be the brake light switch

Thanks, that makes sense. I believe I am looking at a simple problem with a simple fix that just is being overlooked. I understand this, if it isn't broke when you look at it it is hard to fix.

Perry