Fy33 Q45 Strut Replacement D I Y

[NyRider]

Well it’s finally done well at least one side till next week when I will do the other Side. Even with only one side done ride quality and handling have greatly Increased more then I expected for only one side being done.

My father did most of the work but I guided him (he he) anyways following these Instructions even the most novices of mechanics can do this saving you Hundreds of dollars which can be reinvested into your Q45.

So now to the steps. This can be done differently but the way I did it worked out Best for me because it was the easiest, I did not have to worry that my Alignment would be off (save money). I didn’t hurt myself trying to torque or unscrew a screw or break a bolt that is carried by the dealer only and would of cost $100 dollars. I effectively carried out this task with only a pinched finger from adjusting and Pumping the jack at the same time. Also following this write-up will allow you to do this whole replacement in approx. 1 1/2 hours.

BEFORE you do anything make sure you spray all the screws and bolts with The PB or WD-40 the night before, right before, and during the operation. The PB blast tends to run out of air before spray so I cut it open and placed it in a Spray bottle.

1.) Gather the tools you need:a.) MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor...(For $43.00 I rented this tool from AutoZone under the free loan a tool program they have -- when I returned it they Gave me my $43.00 back)b.) 6mm Allen Key (a good one made from steel not aluminum very vital)c.) The following sockets -- 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, & a 7/8 Socket I did not have any metric sizes this big so I had to use a 7/8d.) A Sledge Hammere.) A Flat Head Screwdriverf.) a 6 - 8 inch hollow steel pole that fits over the end of your ratchetg.) An Impact wrench (optional, but extremely beneficial)h.) PB PENETRATING CATALYST or if not available wd-40 (extremely Important will allow for a smooth replacement and prevention of stripping bolts And threads.)i.) And of course a jack, jack stands, bricks, a working e-brake (he he)

2.) Once you have the necessary tools, through some bricks behind each rear wheel put your e-brake on, jack the car up and place jack stands on both side's of car and remove your wheel. ****please remember SAFETY FIRST.

3.) Use the 7/8 socket to remove the 2 screws on the caliper.

4.) Next use the 12mm socket to remove the screw securing the bracket Holding in the brake line running to your caliper and then remove your caliper And secure it some where. (I used a 3rd jack stand to place it on)

5.) Now using a vise grip pull the out the pin on the spindle nut. Then using the Same 7/8 socket remove the spindle nut.

6.) Now on to the Tie rod end. Using the 7/8 socket remove the tie rod end.

7.) Now onto to the ABS or TCS sensor thing?? Instead of messing with it and Ruining it I decided to unplug it from the engine bay and pull it through the rubber Grommet it goes threw (extremely easy) follow pictures.

8.) Next I removed the sway bar link from the strut housing. Very important you use a steel Allen key as any other's will strip. Using the Allen key to anchor it Put it on the sway bar link end making sure it’s against the strut then using a 19mm open hand wrench you can remove the nut.

9.) We go to the engine bay and remove the stabilizer nut with a 17mm socket Then pull it up a little bit. Then Using a 14mm socket remove the 3 bolts on the top strut mount

11.) Now back to the cross member. Using a 17mm socket remove the 2 nuts On the strut rod Bar.

12.) Finally time to pull the strut out. What I did here was insert a crowbar and Stand on it slowly as my father moved the strut out of the spindle refer (to the Picture)

13.) Now attach spring compressors and start compressing

14.) Her is where I used my Impact Wrench and a 17mm Socket to remove the nut on the top of the strut mount holding the Insert to all the upper mount parts. Came out like a charm.

15.) Place the strut on a table clamp and using a Pipe Wrench remove the Big nut holding the insert in. Now when you remove the old insert hydraulic fluid Will come out. Don’t worry you don’t need it the new one is the same Concept but in a sealed enclosure. Let’s just say ALL-IN-ONE.

16.) Put in The new Insert

17.) Place all the upper mount parts back on in correct order tighten down the Insert nut with your impact wrench. Remove spring compressors line up holes with the mount return strut retighten all bolts and FINITO your Infiniti.

I wrote this DIY a week later so I hope I got everything right if I didn’t just let me know and I will correct it.

Enjoy!!

Below Are Some Pic's Just For Refrence:
Modified by NyRider at 8:32 PM 9/12/2007

[qship96]

excellent write-up and photos-this needs to be saved on the DIY tab at q45.org and here somewhere as a reference.thank you for your efforts!

[greenwar]

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! Sticky material..

Wonderful write up.

[NyRider]

I Forgot To Give A Big Thanks To Q45.org For Hosting My Picture's

THANKS

[Q451990]

Wow... makes the G50 look like a breeze! Great write-up!

Heath

[Falkdesigns]

Very nice write up!

[owinbush]

Where did you source your new inserts...and how much were they? Need to do mine and want to start prepping the wallet.

thanks

[NyRider]

go them from joe @ infinitipartsusa.com my total was about $500 for everything in the front but add another $80 that Im going to spend later on both strut rod bushing's which are highly recomend to get replaced, once I find how much or how to get them pressed in.

[NyRider]

just reposting with updated pic links since q45.org/gallery had crashed but I dont know why my pictures are so huge

[AlabamaDan]

Good job! Thanks for posting!

I wonder how different this is for the G50?