Curious if anyone has seen this: http://www.gofastperformance.c...=3625

Their claim:

"Go Fast Performance introduces another simple yet innovative part for improving the performance of your engine. Our Intake Cooling System reroutes engine coolant around the throttle body which reduces temperatures and increases horsepower. "

I hadn't had a chance to take a look at what they could possibly be talking about yet. Their kit looks like a simple hose. Anyone know what this is?

I'm no expert but that doesn't sound right to me. Coolant temps in modern cars run over 200 degrees. I would think the air and fuel going in are less than that unless they are routed near somwthing real hot.

Any performance guys know?

Yeah, I know. The coolant would really heat the intake up. I was under the impression that they were saying that they would use the coolant to cool the intake. However, after a little more digging, I believe that they give instructions and a hose to reroute the coolant away from the intake. I haven't taken a look at the FX intake set-up quite yet but why on earth would Infiniti have the coolant wrapped around the intake? I've never seen any car with coolant running anywhere near the intake other than turbo systems. Anyway, if it's such an easy mod, I've gotta try and figure out what they are talking about and not pay them $16 for 6 inches of 1/4 hose.

If you are serious about increasing the gains on your FX, just look to some G35/350z mods.

You can get a 5/16 plenum spacer. You can buy them for about $200 and it has proven whp gains of 10-15, no BS.

It has been suggested to me to get headers, too. Those can be found from about $200 and up.

Chris92SE wrote:If you are serious about increasing the gains on your FX, just look to some G35/350z mods.

You can get a 5/16 plenum spacer. You can buy them for about $200 and it has proven whp gains of 10-15, no BS.

It has been suggested to me to get headers, too. Those can be found from about $200 and up.

Exactly, the FX35 is very similar to the G35/350Z. The plenum spacers work and are an easy mod to gain power on these vehicles. Tuning is another spot where the crossover between vehicles is nearly seamless.

Exhaust parts, turbo kits, transmission kits, nearly everything is compatible between the models.

The FX45 is a different beast altogether though, and most parts don't work.

Thanks a bunch for the info. I'm not by any means looking to make a racing machine. Just a few mods. I'm planning on the Stillen intake with the z-tube. Plus, I've been looking at spacers and a new plenum by kinetix on ebay. Both claim similar results. However, I was curious which would actually be the better choice. If I remember correctly, the Skunk2 spacers can be ordered for as low as $159 while the Kinetic ABS plenum for $259. Any words on those?

rrack wrote:Thanks a bunch for the info. I'm not by any means looking to make a racing machine. Just a few mods. I'm planning on the Stillen intake with the z-tube. Plus, I've been looking at spacers and a new plenum by kinetix on ebay. Both claim similar results. However, I was curious which would actually be the better choice. If I remember correctly, the Skunk2 spacers can be ordered for as low as $159 while the Kinetic ABS plenum for $259. Any words on those?

The $159.99 price was a March special only. The Skunk2 is the easiest and least expensive unit to install, and generally helps reduce the chance of having a plenum leak.

Also the hose they are selling that gives you 8hp!!!! is just a coolant bypass hose. Nissan is a manufacturer that has to build a car to work in all environments. If you live in sunny So CA you don't need coolant running through your throttle body, it'll never freeze. Do that in Minnesota in the middle of winter and you'll be stuck at idle for the first 45 minutes of your day.

It's not some trick awesome bit of technology, but 8hp increase is a beyond ridiculous claim.

Thanks a bunch. That's what I was thinking. I've just never really seen coolant being run thru the throttle body before. Yeah, I don't really think there will be much of a difference but I'm gonna bypass it anyway...I'm in Texas. I definitely don't need the intake warmed up at all. I found a ton of those spacers on Ebay. I just didn't know if the Kinetix would be better. I think they claimed 14whp while the spacers claimed 8-10whp. Then there's the problem if the engine cover will still fit. Do you know if it will still fit with just the spacer? The Kinetix says something on their site that it might not fit.

I just ordered the Stillen intake with z-tube from Stillen themselves since they've got some specials running. I may opt for the spacer in a week or two. I still need to take care of the rear brakes this weekend. So tempted to go all out with underdrives as well.

Thanks again,

Robert

Before you redesign systems always a good idea to make some temperature measurements to define what's really going on.

What is the air temperature inside plenum vs ambient under YOUR various driving conditions?

Gasoline and fuel injectors are designed to function over a narrow temperature range why ecu measures gasoline and air temoerature to fine tune injection.

Aftermarket companies often promise alot BUT deliver very little KNOWING that buyers won't accurately test their claims.

Few companies are able to prove their claims with real world testing.

Check out JWT cams. Real gains cost real money.

Be aware that most true gains move the torque peak higher, which might not be such a good thing for a heavy street vehicle.

I would be changing oil and filters often and praying it holds together.

Yeah, I'm not going to go crazy with things. I just always like tinkering with things and adding a few mods. Got the Stillen intake and their version of the z-tube and installed it last night. The complete Motordyne 5/16" spacer & Copper ISO are on the way from Riverside.

Anyway, the Stillen was a very easy install. I broke one of the plastic clips holding the front ductwork on and will need to find another. Only real problem was that one of the threaded holes on the aluminum velocity stack stripped. I knew better not to exert too much force and the darn thing just kept spinning...never really even got tight. I emailed them for a replacement. For the time being, the other three bolts are holding it together.

Anyway, it appears to have slightly improved responsiveness and fuel economy appears to have increased about 1-2mpg. But that's only one drive to work this morning. The sound increase isn't nearly as bad as with the cold air that I installed on the old Q45. Very tolerable. The only thing that concerns me is that when I had it at the dealer a couple weeks ago for an alignment they gave me a new G35 loaner. That lil car can run! I hadn't driven one of the newer models before. When pressed, it will move with a rush of power that seems endless. It seems much more powerful than my FX. I know the newer year models have slight differences but basically the same engines. Plus I know the weight differences are a factor. However, why does it seem soooo much more powerful? The FX will run but just doesn't have that rush feeling like the G? Should I do something different? Reset the ECU or something else? It's on premium fuel with full synthetic everything and only 60K. Recent oil change with fuel system cleaners etc... Forgive my ignorance. I've always dealt with the Q engines.

Thanks much, Robert

Good choice with the mods you have chosen.

The FX seems to take minor mods pretty well. It looks great too, I personally love the seating position and easily accessible AV interface. Have you posted pics yet?

As the Q guys mentioned, aftermarket claims are not regulated and a shift of 5 hp depending on testing parameters is not out of the ordinary.

The throttle body bypass is designed to heat the air (yep sometimes you want to do that) during cold starts. In all honesty any gain from the thermal insolating gaskets or throttle body bypasses are arguable. My opinion is the engine compartment temperatures are not changed (if anything any heat exchange that takes place in the TB is lost) and the air in the intake is still at or near the engine temperature already. The FX35 uses a metal intake which is covered by a decorative cover and averages =>150*F depending on heat load, regardless of what you do short of a functional hood scoop, or side vents like on the 09 FX. Short of a supercharger getting the air cooled is a mere effort in futility. Focus your wallet either on working with what you have (ECM, although the 05+ requires VIN registration) the usuals like intake, spacer, exhaust (although keep in mind that installing HFCs violates federal emissions regulations) a muffler and headers improve airflow and sound. Also Underdrive pulleys can effect the electrical system (variable rate alternator) in weird ways it's basically a waste of money. The argument of less rotating mass is interesting since the VQ actually uses a relatively light weight crank pulley.

Important to understand that a 11F change in air temperature results in a 1% density change. Which in theory allows up to a 1% change in HP.

SAE sets 77F as the test point so 120F air is 4% down on power.

The question is how does one cool air lower than outside [+ some small natural underhood heating].At WOT the air is travelling so fast from outside to inside engine that the hot metal ducts and hot TB and hot plenum have no time to heat it up.200 grams of air flowing in per second thru a 3" duct

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.....html

Air is traveling over 100-130 feet per second so 5 feet of convolution takes 1/20th of a second.

Factory engineers are tasked with making multiple designs for each component then the cost a vs HP improvement are analysed. A third party [team leader plus his cost accountant] decides which of the 3 will be used.

You will find that as soon as after market products are available Nissan analyses them to see if they have MISSED something, some easy cheap HP to help sell cars without compromising reliability too much.After all the oem designs are expected to last 7 years and 100k minimum.

Every engineer know hundred of tricks if engine life is not important.Why NASCAR engines last only 500 miles and burn 8 quarts of oil per race and are 100% rebuilt or trashed afterwards.