I replaced the pump in 2019, now the tank won't stay full, it leaks down to about 1/3 full and the washer just spits on the windshield. Looking at the service manual it looks like to change the tank I need to remove the front fender protector, the front fillet molding, the front bumper facia and the grille? Really? Anyone been here and any ideas?

Looks similar to the setup on older Maxes, so none of that should need complete removal. Peel back the front portion of the Fender Liner and restrain it with a bungee. Leave the lower clips on the Grille attached to the Bumper Cover, just take the top clips loose to release it from the radiator support cover and allow the Bumper Cover to swing out. Only the front part of the Fillet Molding and righthand side of the Bumper Cover need to come loose (hang the Bumper Cover with the Grille still attached on another bungee). Use a copious amount of wet silicone on the seam between the Fender and Bumper Cover before you separate it (if the pawls break it will never seat properly again). Same thing for the Fillet Molding, some lube will make it much easier to release the post-clips without damage.

OK Thanks, been messing with it since I first posted and learned a couple more things. I was convinced the reservoir was leaking because it was down about 1/3 (not 2/3rds as I mistakenly posted first) a few hours after I filled it, however I topped it off a few hours ago and now it hasn't gone down but the light on the dash won't go out. I wonder if there is a separate tank for the back, I'll need to look that up. Also I found one of the rubber lines that runs from the cowl to the wiper arm and connects to the nozzles built into the wiper arm was rotted and broke where it curves at the bottom before passing up thru the spring, that piece is exposed to sunlight. Seems the pre-made hose with the small rubber tee that fits between the nozzles is NLA so I am headed to the parts store for some generic hose and some splicers.

bigb56 wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 01, 2022 1:07 pm

OK Thanks, been messing with it since I first posted and learned a couple more things. I was convinced the reservoir was leaking because it was down about 1/3 (not 2/3rds as I mistakenly posted first) a few hours after I filled it, however I topped it off a few hours ago and now it hasn't gone down but the light on the dash won't go out. I wonder if there is a separate tank for the back, I'll need to look that up. Also I found one of the rubber lines that runs from the cowl to the wiper arm and connects to the nozzles built into the wiper arm was rotted and broke where it curves at the bottom before passing up thru the spring, that piece is exposed to sunlight. Seems the pre-made hose with the small rubber tee that fits between the nozzles is NLA so I am headed to the parts store for some generic hose and some splicers.

You're most welcome. There's no rear reservoir, the washer pump is valved such that when it runs in reverse, flow goes to the rear. When the tanks leak, it often isn't the tank itself. The pump is simply popped into the hole with a flanged o-ring, and very often it's just the o-ring that deteriorates.

I was able to replace the rubber line with one from a local jobber, the big box parts stores don't carry the small size which is about 4.8mm O.D. I ran new from the cowl nipple to the molded tee inside the wiper arm. Since the tee is molded onto the original line I cut it leaving about 3/8" and pushed a piece of 1/8" hard vacuum line into it and into the end of the new hose which works much better than a barbed fitting as it allows more flow and takes up less space. Now I just have to figure out the intermittent leak in the reservoir, I haven't seen any evidence yet but the pump grommet sounds likely, now to find one of those.
With barely 50K miles on this car it's probably one of the lowest mile examples around. In good shape save for faded headlights.

The seals inside washer pumps have been known to spring leaks too, and many times they only leak when the washer is being operated. There's also a separate level sensor in the bottom of your tank with an o-ring of its own. That can make figuring out the exact source of a leak pretty complicated. Short of simply replacing the whole assembly, I always found the best method was to dump some vegetable coloring in the tank and drive it for a little while. But most tank assemblies with motor and sensor are only about $200~300, so it may not be worth a lot of screwing around.

ONE SOLUTION TO THE LIGHT COMING ON IN THE DASH ==> Just disconnect the wires to the sensor or easier still just cut and tape the wires. The latter will leave the connector on the pump motor which maybe better if you just want to turn the light on the dash off for good!

Note: I think the pump motors are the same for all model years, and some cross to Nissan models, but what the do is change the type of connector and then give it a different part number. (Sneaky.) That said, if you really want your dash light to work, just buy a new (cheapest Nissan sensor you can find) and then cutoff the connector... and just solder or crimp the wires to make a connection.

It was not hard to get to and only took 30 minutes. Just remove the skid covers on the passenger side, between the wheel well and the engine skid cover. You don't have to remove the fender skirt. Just wedge a 1" flash light or other object to expose the bottom of the washer tank and then pop out the electrical connector.

Pull the electrical connector apart and then seal it with electrical tape. This will permanently "open" the circuit and your dash light will go off. Of course your Washer Dummy Light will never come on again, but who cares! Just be sure you keep fluid in your tank so you don't overheat the wiper pump motor.

Note: Disabling the power to the sensor is easy, but removing the sensor it self (Part #28911CG000) is a lot more work, because you have to gain more access to this area. The sensor can still be bought for $135 list, but my Infiniti Dealer quoted me $80. I would have ordered one, but I did not want to spend a lot time removing the bumper cover. So this repair did not cost me anything and now my washer light on my dash is "off" for good. No worries. I'm satisfied.