fully Built SR20, GT35R, Aem Ems, Smoking need help!!!!!!

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baggedb22
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Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2008 1:58 pm

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Ok guys its kinda hard to pin point b/c i did everything at once, and this is getting pretty annoying but i will not let it get the best of me, ok details are Fully built sr with cp pistons, eagle rods, acl bearings, tomei 270 cams, bc springs and retainers, jim wolf bronze valve guides, full-race t4 dual gate manifold with gt35r, and aem ems to keep everything under control, i just broke 2,000 miles on this set-up and its been smoking from the first start, and its an oil smoke, I need some extra ideas/ advice..

Heres everything i have check/changed so far

compression and leakdown tested 2 times so far both look greatThere is a small amount of oil in my catch can but pretty normalno oil in antifreeze or antifreeze in the oilthere is pressure when the oil cap is removed, not sure if this is normal with the big cams first i thought it was blowby BUT THERE IS VERY MINIMAL NORMAL PRESSURE AT MY DIPSTICK TUBE, AND IN MY CATCH CAN LINE FROM THE BLOCK AND NORMAL PRESSURE AT THE VALVE COVER Tbrand new pcv valveChanged oil drains around thinkin maybe that was the problemsent the turbo back to Garrett and they said there was nothing wrongthere is no oil or residue in my intercooler, intake manifold, air filter, on plugs, or any notice able oil in the exhaust manifold, turbo or downpipe i believe its burning it all off

The only thing i can think of right now is the valve guides, the intake side were intolerance but the exhaust side were not so we replaced just the exhaust side, im thinking when they did this they just pressed them in instead of heating the head and freezing the guides, and its leaking just enough to see it at an idle, The car also made pretty good power thats another reason why i dont think its blowby the car made 440rwhp on the break in tune and 18psi..

Any info would be awesome, im in need of some much needed help, the race seasons about to start!!!!

Also heres a pic of my bay just incase anyone ask's



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USMCgetsome
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Car: OWN S13.5 RB25DET/2003 G35
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turbo seals? new or rebuilt?

baggedb22
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Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2008 1:58 pm

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Turbo and the seals were brand new with about 2k on them now that what i thought it was at first so i sent it back to full-race and they sent it to garrett but garrett said there was nothing wrong with it,

Also it does not smoke for about the first 30sec, to a min then it will start, and it will stay steady the hole time at idle and it will also smoke on warm starts..

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rc1honda
Posts: 585
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:25 am
Car: 1992 240 sx
2007 BMW 335xi
2008 Honda CBR1000RR
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Had almost the extact same problem. Had perfect leak down and compression and still burning oil. 2 words, valve seals.

Did you make sure to have the correct valve seals. The intake and exhuast are different sizes on he SR. I think the intake is 6mm and the exhuast is 7mm.

When I found mine i dissassembled the head and you could actually see the valve seal stuck up right next to the retainer. You might be able to take the head apart without removing and check to see if it is the valve seals. Also take your exhuast manifold off and look into it. If it's the seals you should be able to see the residue in the ports.

But either way you might have to rip the head back off. Unless you don't care that it's burning oil. My car ran good too, but i couldn't stand the smoke. GL
Modified by rc1honda at 7:47 AM 3/23/2010

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Hijacker
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Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
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You can replace valve seals without having to remove the head. You'll just need a tool to hook a compressor hose to that threads into the spark plug hole. It'll pump air into the cylinder and keep the valve from falling in.
baggedb22 wrote:Also it does not smoke for about the first 30sec, to a min then it will start, and it will stay steady the hole time at idle and it will also smoke on warm starts..
That alone screams valve seals to me. It takes a bit of time for the oil to get into the head and start leaking.

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nelson8708
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+1 for valve seals. I've also heard you can feed in some smalle rope (1/4") through the spark plug hole when the engine is at bdc and then turn it over by hand to tdc or as close as you can get it, that will hold the valves in.

-Nelson

baggedb22
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Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2008 1:58 pm

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rc1honda, i also thought that maybe they some how switched the valve seals around, but i looked at the extra brand new set i have an there deff notice able to the eye that there different sizes and i told them when they were putting it together also it looks like the guides where the seals seats is just a tad bigger on the exhaust side, ok guys well it looks like i'll be pulling the valve cover to see if i can see anything, and possibly pulling the head back off..

baggedb22
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Hijacker, wouldn't you think if the valve seals were leaking though it would leak once u shut it off like, old beat valve seals will then just smoke for alittle on cold start and burn it off?? im doing the opposite, lol no smoke on cold start which is kinda strange..

baggedb22
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Bump!!! Anyone else have any ideas??

baggedb22
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Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2008 1:58 pm

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Ok guys so i think i found my problem just need to see what everyone thinks, i pulled the cams back out of my car today, and got a flash light out, for some reason it looked like the valve seals on the exhaust side were sitting alittle high, so i got a small pick out and put just the tinyest amount of pressure on the bottom of the seal and it poped right off the guide and higher up onto the valve stem, i tryed this on the intake side but they are very sturdy and can't i can't mone them with my small pick, just wandering how tight are the valve stems seals on the exhaust side normally?? Now just remember i only had the guides in the exhaust side of the head changed out and used jim wolf bronze guides, could there be a problem with the seals not fitting the new guides as they should or do you think the seals were just not pressed on hard enough?? All of the seals on the exhaust side seam kinda loose, i could prob. pop everyone off with the pick if i tryed, it just doesn't seem right..

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rc1honda
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Car: 1992 240 sx
2007 BMW 335xi
2008 Honda CBR1000RR
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No they should not be that loose. I really don't thinnk it has anything to do with the guides. If the guides were bad you would burning all kinds of oil and the car would run like a**.

But as it stands, car runs great but bruns oil. I would bet my bank account you have the wrong size vavle seals on the exhaust side. Same exact thing happened to like ai said.

I pulled the cover and saw the seals all the up the valve stem by the retainers. I guessing when the car is idleing and revving the seals get stuck somtimes and move up the valve stem allowing oil into the cyclinders. Now when the car is off they settle down back to thier normal position.

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Morph
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Car: 91 Sr Powered Coupe

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Sounds like you had someone build the engine, so why are you messing with this?

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Justin35ll
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Car: s13 coupe sr20det

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i had to pry my original valve seals off with a plyers. They were on there pretty tight.No way they would have popped off with a pick


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