fully built KADE won't start

[240sxvaj]

alirght so its been awhile since i been on here since school has been in the way.

the car fires like its gonna start but then it doesnt.

i set my timing to TDC before i tried to start it and even had my bro a (mechanic) check on it. he said timing is right and everything is good but then dont get it why it doesnt start up.

i have check for sparks and i have sparks. my timing is also correct and i have also check my compression and it read 151 across from piston 1 to piston 4

i know for sure i have installed everything on right but what can it be?

i was thinking it was my lawn mower battery because the battery has been sitting in my car for about 7 months now.

i took the battery to get recharge at autozone but then i dont think they did a full charge on it.

i check out my AFC NEO and the voltage of my battery is reading 11.5 and then as i try to start it up more (3 tries) it will drain all the way to about 8.5 volts.

can it be my battery that is not giving enough volts?

smell gas on my spark plugs but i think thats kinda normal for a fresh built motor rite?

whats wrong?

[timreaper20]

Is the distibutor 180 degrees off?

[slipnfall]

Most common (that I've seen anyway) cause of no start after a rebuild is the distributor off a tooth: if you watch the rotor when you install the dizzy, you'll notice it rotates a few degrees. You need to set 1 to TDC on the compression stroke, then watch where the rotor *ends up* when installing.

It has bit me before ask well: it will fire a cylinder or two, but not start.

[240sxvaj]

Most common (that I've seen anyway) cause of no start after a rebuild is the distributor off a tooth: if you watch the rotor when you install the dizzy, you'll notice it rotates a few degrees. You need to set 1 to TDC on the compression stroke, then watch where the rotor *ends up* when installing.

It has bit me before ask well: it will fire a cylinder or two, but not start.

yea i tried that already and when i did it i put a screwdriver in cylinder 1 and watch it went all the way up to TDC. i also made sure my mark was right on the pully too.

Is the distibutor 180 degrees off?

not its not off.

what else can it be?

can it be my ECU? (highly doubt it)

im gonna mess with the dizzy for awhile and will let you know what comes up

thanks

[slipnfall]

You're sure on mechanical timing? This is a good reference: http://jimwolftechnology.com/w...E.PDF

You didn't mention anything about fuel - can you at least smell it after cranking for a while?

[slipnfall]

Regarding fuel: make sure the feed and return lines aren't swapped...

[240sxvaj]

Regarding fuel: make sure the feed and return lines aren't swapped...

my fuel pressure gauge is reading about 36psi and when turned off it takes a little bit before the pressure drops back down which seems normal. For sure i didnt get it mixed up since i double checked everything and even looked at pictures, what i am planning to do is take off my vavle cover and make sure the camshafts are at TDC(piston one lobes facing outward). The only problem is i didnt put the motor together, i paid the shop to do everything internally for me. such as BC camshafts, new timing chain. i called up the shop and the guy said for sure he did timing chain right.

one question is when i set it on TDC if the cams lobes for piston 1 is facing eachother then when i turn the crankpully one whole time around should it always show the two markings for the camgears to the chain(lobes facing outward)?

i need to get an ohmeter and my injectors but i doubt it since the're brand new nismo 740cc. and my spark plugs have fuel on it when i took them out.

[slipnfall]

If cylinder 1 is on TDC for compression stroke, then the crank pulley should be aligned with the timing mark, and both I/E cams pointing outwards. From this point the chain markings do not matter.

To answer your question though, with each full rotation of the crank, where the marks end up will 'move', due to the gear ratios. In other words if the marks were used initially/properly, you should be able to rotate the crank a number of times and eventually end up with everything as above, and the marks in their correct places. Hope this makes sense.

What are you doing for tuning? If it's an ECU tune, was it a know working tune prior to teardown/rebuild?

[240sxvaj]

If cylinder 1 is on TDC for compression stroke, then the crank pulley should be aligned with the timing mark, and both I/E cams pointing outwards. From this point the chain markings do not matter.

To answer your question though, with each full rotation of the crank, where the marks end up will 'move', due to the gear ratios. In other words if the marks were used initially/properly, you should be able to rotate the crank a number of times and eventually end up with everything as above, and the marks in their correct places. Hope this makes sense.

What are you doing for tuning? If it's an ECU tune, was it a know working tune prior to teardown/rebuild?

i have a Enthalpy ECU, im sure its works

alright so i check out my cams and they werent installed right since it wasnt face outward. they both face the same way.heres some pix:

TDC

im gonna give my builder a call and drop off the car to his shop to get it redone

need more pix?lmk and i will take them

thanks for the help

[slipnfall]

Just to be sure/curious - in that pic where was your distributor rotor pointed?

If/when you do take it to your mechanic, have him remove/discard the two upper timing guides in the below diagram: they will only cause trouble down the road.

Timing a KA is really not that hard - I realize that the mechanic may not have done it right (and so he/she should fix it), but if transporting the car is a hassle there's plenty of info/help here to do it yourself (see the below link).

In this case I think you may want to bring it to the shop anyway, on the *off* chance this caused a bent valve.

Good luck and keep us posted.

zerothread?id=105618

[slipnfall]

Oops, here's the TSB:

[240sxvaj]

yea i know about the timing guides.

the new timing chain kit that i bought didnt come with timing guides and the builder must forgot to take off the top guide

thanks for cam help

[slipnfall]

PS - any other engine bay pic's? Looks clean. I'm debating wether to paint or polish my stock intake mani while it's off - is it hard to keep clean?

[240sxvaj]

Just to be sure/curious - in that pic where was your distributor rotor pointed?

If/when you do take it to your mechanic, have him remove/discard the two upper timing guides in the below diagram: they will only cause trouble down the road.

Timing a KA is really not that hard - I realize that the mechanic may not have done it right (and so he/she should fix it), but if transporting the car is a hassle there's plenty of info/help here to do it yourself (see the below link).

In this case I think you may want to bring it to the shop anyway, on the *off* chance this caused a bent valve.

Good luck and keep us posted.

well i'm going to call briancrower since they are stage 2 bc camshafts. i dont know much about aftermarket cam lobes, how they are suppose to face or if they are suppose to face outward no matter what.. actually the ecu havent been tested to work w/ the new tune from enthalpy but seems like power, sterio, lightings and everything seem to work fine. thanks for all the help, I highly doubt its ecu though.

and its a bitTTCh when polishing the intake manifold unless if you have all the right tools, i used a dremel and lots of sand paper. make sure to finish it off w/ 2000grit and then MOTHERS metal polish for that nice shine. its not all hard to maintain, the reason why it looks dull is from all the grease when dropping the motor. it's worth all the time and blister. i'll post up more pictures when i clean up the engne bay.

EDIT: i called up Briancrower and the cams where made for Front wheel, so i have to switch the cams around for it to be rear wheel. so i already talked to my mechanic and he will fix it for free. i hope this is it,
Modified by 240sxvaj at 11:28 AM 12/29/2008