Just wondering if anyone knows anything about this kit or if anyone has it. I love the idea of a twinscroll setup and I happened to stumble on this kit. Sooo..... Anyone with any opinions or actual knowledge. I would tend to trust Full-Race, just curious what you guys think or if anyone has even heard of it since my NICO searches brought back nothing.
Heres the link:http://www.full-race.com/catal...d3ade
Full-Race Twin Scroll ?'s
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wishihadas14
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wishihadas14
- Posts: 81
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- Car: '93 240sx Coupe
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WDRacing
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Re: (wishihadas14)
Not for 3300 bucks it aint....I don't care how cool a twin scroll is.
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nissanman04
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Re: (WDRacing)
^^^ Don't even think that is including the intercooler...
Re: (wishihadas14)
I'll be running the twin scroll 3076R twin scroll on my SR. The HP and torque curves are very great and the spool is good from what I've seen in dyno sheets the twin scroll 3071R can spool up faster than a single scroll .64 GT2871R and flow better as well. If you are a response whore it's a good turbo kit to drop some money on. It's hands down the best 400-500rwhp setup, just the priciest. If you don't care about spooling a couple hundred RPM later, just get a T3/T04.wishihadas14 wrote:I'm just curious about the quality/completeness of the kit. I've never seen anyone do a twinscroll setup and so I got a little excited. Thought I'd share. I know full race is reputable, just never seen/heard of it before.
Re: (redtop91)
twin scroll manifolds split up which cylinders 1/3 - 2/4 ?
or is it 1/4 - 2/3
or is it 1/4 - 2/3
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nissanfanatic
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It would be cylinders that are 360* out of phase. So one and four, and three and two, considering the firing order is 1,3,4,2.
I run a Full Race T4 undivided manifold and I love it. I am considering buying an S2000 and I would probably do a T3 manifold from Full race. They do good work.
The divided housing is only available in .78ar for T3 housings. I think you would benefit more from simply running a .63ar housing undivided. I think you could get away with the .63ar maxxing the 3076R.
I run a Full Race T4 undivided manifold and I love it. I am considering buying an S2000 and I would probably do a T3 manifold from Full race. They do good work.
The divided housing is only available in .78ar for T3 housings. I think you would benefit more from simply running a .63ar housing undivided. I think you could get away with the .63ar maxxing the 3076R.
Re: (nissanfanatic)
My next turbo for an sr20det will be a KKK/BorgWarner K27
It has the split turbine housing on some models, and I might fabricate of have a twinscroll manifold made for it.
I am gathering research, and I am trying to weigh the difference between split housing and standard t3/t4.if its not really worth it I could save time and money by buying a standard jgy topmount mani
any knowledge is welcome
but we'll see
It has the split turbine housing on some models, and I might fabricate of have a twinscroll manifold made for it.
I am gathering research, and I am trying to weigh the difference between split housing and standard t3/t4.if its not really worth it I could save time and money by buying a standard jgy topmount mani
any knowledge is welcome
but we'll see
Re: (nissanfanatic)
You can find all kinds of divided t3 housings you never knew existed, you just have to know the right people. I have personally seen a .63 divided t3. As far as i know they dont make one for a .48 t3 and most of the smaller t2 flanges but pretty much anything larger than a t3 .63 you can find a divided turbine housing for.
There is NO downside to running a divided flange turbo(price maybe..). It benefits every single aspect of a turbochargers operation. Faster spool, better high end flow, ect. Twin scroll is the ish when talking turbo setups, you would never expect it to have so many benefits that are so noticeable.
The full race twin scroll is the manifold to have IMO. I love their company, and that manifold is just sick. You really should check that link out.. The manis a beauty.
There is NO downside to running a divided flange turbo(price maybe..). It benefits every single aspect of a turbochargers operation. Faster spool, better high end flow, ect. Twin scroll is the ish when talking turbo setups, you would never expect it to have so many benefits that are so noticeable.
The full race twin scroll is the manifold to have IMO. I love their company, and that manifold is just sick. You really should check that link out.. The manis a beauty.
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nissanfanatic
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Re: (nissanfanatic)
you're right 480 Its incredible
but its also expensive, I can find a fabricator to make something comparable without forking out a grip.
but its also expensive, I can find a fabricator to make something comparable without forking out a grip.
Re: (Kalypso123)
Man by the time a fabricator makes something like that hes going to have an absurd amount of time in it. Mostly engineering, test fitting, ect. You would be better off buying a full race manifold, copying it, and selling the original.
Re: (480sx)
actually thats a f*ckin smart Idea
But I was planning on MAKING ONE!
ok its time to start getting into manifold design.
my biggest obstable was looping the forth runner around the 2nd and 3rd, at the exhaust flange.
I think its possible to make it even shorter then the full race, but this could comprimise an equal length design, which worries me a little in a split housing setup - tho it works perfectly in a normal t2 or t3 housing.
but I cant be stopped research is the cure for everything
But I was planning on MAKING ONE!
ok its time to start getting into manifold design.
my biggest obstable was looping the forth runner around the 2nd and 3rd, at the exhaust flange.
I think its possible to make it even shorter then the full race, but this could comprimise an equal length design, which worries me a little in a split housing setup - tho it works perfectly in a normal t2 or t3 housing.
but I cant be stopped research is the cure for everything
Re: (Kalypso123)
If your not going to make an equal length manifold, a twin scroll setup is a waist.
You have to think of it like this.. The whole design behind a twin scroll manifold is based on the idea that you have an equal amount of time between exhaust pulses that hit the turbine. Each pulse wont interfere with the other exhaust pulses, leaving it so that every bit of energy that is leaving your head is used as efficiently as possible to power the turbine. If you dont make it equal length, the pulses arnt going to be evenly spaced apart, thus defeating the purpose of a twin scroll design.
You have to think of it like this.. The whole design behind a twin scroll manifold is based on the idea that you have an equal amount of time between exhaust pulses that hit the turbine. Each pulse wont interfere with the other exhaust pulses, leaving it so that every bit of energy that is leaving your head is used as efficiently as possible to power the turbine. If you dont make it equal length, the pulses arnt going to be evenly spaced apart, thus defeating the purpose of a twin scroll design.
Re: (480sx)
ok, thats established
the only remaining challenge are the welds in tight spots, I dont know how to weld but I will learn just so I can make a manifold.
when asked what type of piping and material I should use.
b-rett from nico responded" i would use either 1.5" schedule 10 or 40 304SS. if you figure out how much you need, we can certainly supply it. if you'd rather go elsewhere, and i understand, try ace stainless...they are competitive. if you go sch. 10, brace the turbo somehow using heim joints, etc. i can help you out with that if need be. i did it on my 1jz manifold. keep it clean clean clean and bevel your buttwelds to get max penetration. best of luck, "
the only remaining challenge are the welds in tight spots, I dont know how to weld but I will learn just so I can make a manifold.
when asked what type of piping and material I should use.
b-rett from nico responded" i would use either 1.5" schedule 10 or 40 304SS. if you figure out how much you need, we can certainly supply it. if you'd rather go elsewhere, and i understand, try ace stainless...they are competitive. if you go sch. 10, brace the turbo somehow using heim joints, etc. i can help you out with that if need be. i did it on my 1jz manifold. keep it clean clean clean and bevel your buttwelds to get max penetration. best of luck, "
Re: (Kalypso123)
To be quite honest with you, i dont think stainless is the premier material for turbo manifolds. Stainless expands and contracts at 3 times the rate of mild steel, making stainless much more prone to cracking. Its MUCH harder to weld in every sense of the way. Back purging with argon sucks balls.. Such an expensive PITA. You'll run through a few bottles doing a manifold like that right.
Stainless however wont rust, which is the main reason people use it so much. But you have to think, if your using a high quality mild steel thats thick enough, a mild steel manifold wont rust out for your life time. In addition, you can get the manifold coated which will have the end result of a more durable manifold, while still being 'rust proof'.
With the money you will save from not buying stainless the coating+mild steel mani wont cost you any more than the uncoated stainless manifold would.
Stainless however wont rust, which is the main reason people use it so much. But you have to think, if your using a high quality mild steel thats thick enough, a mild steel manifold wont rust out for your life time. In addition, you can get the manifold coated which will have the end result of a more durable manifold, while still being 'rust proof'.
With the money you will save from not buying stainless the coating+mild steel mani wont cost you any more than the uncoated stainless manifold would.
Re: (480sx)
worthy advice, a good coating will prevent any rust, and if its the right type it will also prevent heat soak.
thank you 480
this thread is a gem, im surprised no one else is commenting. making/building manifolds is an exciting process especially for a motor as versatile and deserve as the sr20
thank you 480
this thread is a gem, im surprised no one else is commenting. making/building manifolds is an exciting process especially for a motor as versatile and deserve as the sr20
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nissanfanatic
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Here is some raw information for you to look at and determine for yourself what material to use.
http://www.fatiguecalculator.c...op.plhttp://www.fatiguecalculator.comhttp://www.geocities.com/haima....html
A metal's strength is determined a lot by the carbon content of the particular alloy. This is simple to understand based on how strong carbon fiber is, and that diamonds are so hard. Fatigue strength is also something to consider for load bearing structures. Proper support will make any material with a high enough melting point work.
Stainless is used because it has a relatively high carbon content, it is suitable for relatively high temperature use, and it is cheap for what it can do. Ideally, you would use inconel or possibly titanium, but stainless can withstand heat decently. Expansion isn't that big of a deal if you allow room for it and ensure that welds penetrate deep. Cracks typically only happen with poor welding or surface prep, which inherently falls under poor welding IMO.
Mild steel would need to be pretty thick and supported well in order to avoid warping and eventually cracking, hence why it is typically cast very thick and robust.
http://www.fatiguecalculator.c...op.plhttp://www.fatiguecalculator.comhttp://www.geocities.com/haima....html
A metal's strength is determined a lot by the carbon content of the particular alloy. This is simple to understand based on how strong carbon fiber is, and that diamonds are so hard. Fatigue strength is also something to consider for load bearing structures. Proper support will make any material with a high enough melting point work.
Stainless is used because it has a relatively high carbon content, it is suitable for relatively high temperature use, and it is cheap for what it can do. Ideally, you would use inconel or possibly titanium, but stainless can withstand heat decently. Expansion isn't that big of a deal if you allow room for it and ensure that welds penetrate deep. Cracks typically only happen with poor welding or surface prep, which inherently falls under poor welding IMO.
Mild steel would need to be pretty thick and supported well in order to avoid warping and eventually cracking, hence why it is typically cast very thick and robust.