Full HICAS Removal

[aleph1]

I know about replacing the rear subframe and more than likely to get a non-hicas power steering pump, as well as removing the solenoid, already have the steering angle sensor out (have aftmk. wheel), but is there anything else I would need to remove/replace? I'd imagine I can just rip out the lines that go to the back? Any info would be grand. thanks.

[2Fass240us]

I know about replacing the rear subframe and more than likely to get a non-hicas power steering pump, as well as removing the solenoid, already have the steering angle sensor out (have aftmk. wheel), but is there anything else I would need to remove/replace? I'd imagine I can just rip out the lines that go to the back? Any info would be grand. thanks.

Yes, you definitely have to replace the rear subframe because the HICAS and non-HICAS ones are different. You'll also need the toe arms (as the SPL site calls them) and uprights/spindles/whatever. You will also need the non-HICAS PS pump and reservoir, although you may be able to use the HICAS PS reservoir and block off a couple of openings. I made the following post on FreshAlloy a month and a half ago...

The HICAS and non-HICAS subframe differences: 1) The HICAS subframe has a place for the rear HICAS rack to bolt to the subframe. The non-HICAS subframe does not have these mounting points. 2) The non-HICAS subframe has mounting provisions for the toe rod, whereas the HICAS one does not.

The HICAS uprights have ball joints for the tie rod ends to attach to, whereas the non-HICAS uprights have bushings that the toe rod ends bolt to.

I removed my Supuh HICASS system completely, including the lines to the rear, rear rack with tie rods and tie rod ends, computer, wiring to the computer, and some small bits I cannot think of right now. The computer is located on the passenger side below the front-most corner of the rear ¼-glass. It hardly weighs anything, and you have to have the interior panels off to get to it, so I’m not sure if it’s within your scope to remove it. I also removed the wiring to it, but this is part of the chassis harness that runs from the driver side kick panel all the way to the back, along the back, and up the passenger side to the HICAS computer. So to remove the associated wiring, you pretty much have to have all interior panels and the dash out. Which might also be beyond your scope. The only thing I have left do is loop the HICAS lines on the front steering rack. Since I'm ditching PS entirely, I don't have to worry about swapping out to a non-HICAS PS pump (although one came with my SR clip).

The FSM has some detail on how the warning light is tied into the system, but I’m old and can’t remember chit anymore. I'm not sure if the warning lamp would disappear if the computer was removed, but it's possible. As for dealing with the lamp, you’d just have to condition yourself to ignore it.

Out of curiosity, why do you want to completely eliminate it? I did so because it’s weighty, complicated, and makes the handling unpredictable, all of which are problematic since my car is a full-time trackbish. But I didn’t know what reasons you might have...

I removed the entire rear suspension in one piece, and the donor rear came mostly assembled. If you were inclined, you could bolt all of it up without ever having to take anything apart (aside from loosening the e-brake brackets on top of the subframe). But it is heavy, especially if you don't take the differential off! I used the subframe swap as an excuse to install the SPL Pro Aluminum Subframe Bushings, so I had to take everything apart to perform surgery on the donor subframe. If you skip this step, you could swap entire rear assemblies in a day or so. The biggest PITA is getting the driveline apart and back together, which isn't that bad if you've done it before.

In terms of practicality, I would recommend leaving the system alone and buying a Kazama (or like) bar. If you really just want to get rid of it and save some weight at the expense of more downtime for your car, then I would be glad to walk you through it if you'd like.

-Andy

Honestly, the easiest thing for you to do would be to buy a complete non-HICAS rear, excluding the differential obviously. This is what I did, and I had all the parts I needed without having to hunt anything. If you're inclined to do so, you could always remove the diff, drop the entire rear including the struts, move the struts over to the non-HICAS setup, lift everything back in place, bolt it up, re-attach the diff, and blammo! You have a non-HICAS rear suspension.

As far as the lines to the rear, you can remove these by using a flare nut wrench at the front and back of the car. At the back, they go to a "distribution block" (I can post a picture if you'd like), which routes them to the rear HICAS steering rack.

I would not recommend doing this unless you have another car to drive or a whole day with a lift to devote to it. It is rather involved.

If you are looking to reduce weight and complexity, it's worth it IMO. The rear rack, solenoid, and "distribution block" weigh 22.2 pounds. I didn't get a chance to weigh the lines to the rear before I sold them, but I would imagine they'd be a pound or less each.

I'll add this to my "Recent Topics" in case you have any questions. I would be glad to help, which is good considering I'm one of the only people to completely eliminate it (at least from searching all the forums and Google).

Modified by 2Fass240us at 1:22 PM 12/28/2004

Modified by 2Fass240us at 1:23 PM 12/28/2004
Modified by 2Fass240us at 1:23 PM 12/28/2004

[aleph1]

Your post will provide invaluble to me. THANK YOU! Information on fully removing HICAS is usually limited to people essentially saying "get the bar that locks the tie rods". Is there anyway to keep the light so that it can at least detect if I am low on PS fluid...I do want to keep my PS.

[2Fass240us]

Your post will provide invaluble to me. THANK YOU! Information on fully removing HICAS is usually limited to people essentially saying "get the bar that locks the tie rods". Is there anyway to keep the light so that it can at least detect if I am low on PS fluid...I do want to keep my PS.

No problem.

As for the light, I dunno. I'm ditching PS like all the other cool kids.