Fujita has finally released the CAI for the Cube and it's available in three finishes.....Polished, Wrinkle Black and Championship Bronze...the Black and Bronze are powder coated so it will last....and the whole system is typical Fujita....first class.

nice! im gona get me one asap bye bye hot air stillen lol!

yeah you think the fujita is better quality then the injen? been waiting for something else to come along to make a decision. heard that the stillen does not make a big difference in the intake dept. been holding out to see the comments on the fujita glad its finally here. let me know what you think!!! got the stillen exhaust on order tho. its the only one that fits the look of the cube.

back a few months when we had a cube meet i checked the prototype from one of our members and it looked good and it sounded good not too honda-ish and it haves more a straight forward pipping which run more thru the side of the battery allowing more fresh air ...unlike the stillen is directly installed behind the battery which gets nothing but hot air thats why i need it a nice open front grille to let more fresh air to go into the intake, the oem front grille haves a lot of air restriction

the stillen intake gives you a little too much in-cabin noise but after that its a nice exhaust s only rear part
i wanna remove my intake and exhaust and swap them for fujita intake and DC sports exhaust the dc sports exhaust is full cat back

That's why you buy the ATI grille.

Not only do they support the forums as a sponsor, but the grille is SLICK. I just installed mine.

AZhitman wrote:That's why you buy the ATI grille.

Not only do they support the forums as a sponsor, but the grille is SLICK. I just installed mine.

yeap yeap^^ i had the t-rex before just waiting for the ATI . the ATI is much much better looking for the cube and still give me enough open space behind to install the hella super tones horns so its perfect. gotta hit them up to get more stri gauges lol!

haha i was lookin to order an air horn or train horn. wonder how i can split it to a switch tho so i can keep my stock horn.

i dont see much of a problem doing that just dont mix both at the same time or you will drain your oem battery

do you have any pics on change the horn or adding a horn with a switch? shot in the dark.

ive been doing some research on fujita and have been hearing on some cars the check engine light goes on after adding the intake. what up wit that?

You may get a check engine light with any add on intake. You have to reset to computer after you install an intake/exhaust to compensate for the increased airflow.

you wont get it as long as you installe it correctly and following instructions, this was the main reason why fujita took this long to bring out their intake because the first couple designs where getting the engine light on

Yea that is also true, regardless, you should still do a CPU reset after any performance mod. Helped me out at least.

how can i reset the cpu?

I came across this info a couple of months ago while cruising the 350Z section of the Technosquare site. With the exception of the ecu reset procedure, all the other procedures here are available in the Titan service manual. The ecu reset procedure in invaluabe, as it allows almost instant reset of the ecu's RAM instead of the usual method of disconnecting the battery and guessing as to how long you must leave it disconnected.

I think it's important to do the learning procedures periodically, as it basically recalibrates the electro-mechanical positioners, namely the throttle valve positioner and the accelerator pedal positioners. After some use, these things get a little out of whack, and get kinda lost. This can cause problems like loss of power and idle issues. This method restores the proper min/max position voltages that the ecu sees from them.

I, personally, have seen the best improvement in my engine by doing the full procedure, starting with the ecu reset, followed by the other procedures. In fact, after doing this, I got back some of my low end grunt I'd lost over the past months. I can actually catch a bit of rubber now, which I haven't been able to do for a long time! It also cured a slightly erratic idle I was having.

Give it a try, but be patient....it may take a couple (or more) tries with your stopwatch to get it right.....timing is extremely important here! (Edit: See newly added "Easy Method" below).

Note: Make sure engine is at operating temp and all electrical loads are turned off prior to doing the idle air volume learning. Don't think it matters for an ecu reset.

From Technosquare website:

Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Edit: Added the "Easy Method" for ECU Reset

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning

Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures

1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
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