I have recently purchased a 1977 280Z with the fuel injected L28 engine, 109 thousand miles. The car has quit running twice now while on short drives of about 20 miles.
The weather was cool here in Georgia and engine temp was OK. I believe I have read or heard that these injected cars may have a history of vapor lock. Maybe I saw
a fuel rail for sale that stated it would prevent vapor lock ???? Anyone have any input as the whether I am on the right track of do they not have a history of VL ?

I had vapor lock issues on my 240z almost every time I would drive it. Wound up wrapping the hard-metal fuel line in heat-wrap and installing an in-line fuel pump with a manual on/off switch inside the car. That way, when ever it starts getting a little finicky, I switch on the extra pump and keep the fluid flowing through. Seems to work for me and only took an afternoon to accomplish.
~Peter

Thanks, I have considered fabricating a heat shield between the engine and fuel rail, some sort of heat dissipation device or wrapping the rail with some type insulation.
I wasn't even sure these cars had an issue with VP.

The issues are becoming more common with the changes to modern fuel. I've often considered doing engine swaps on all my cars to modern-style engines to avoid these issues but I can't break away from the ease of maintenance and repair on the old carburetor motors.
~Peter

Peter's right, with regard to a carbureted car - However, IF you're experiencing stumbling while going up long uphill grades in high heat, driving in extreme heat, or other similar issues, check your fuel filter. EFI cars are not as susceptible to vapor lock issues, simply due to the nature of their fuel system design. I'd be looking at the fuel pump and filter, first. Fuel pump should be keeping a steady pressure of 30psi.

Also, isolating the fuel rail from its mounting points (with a plastic or aluminum spacer) and wrapping the line with heat-reflecting material won't hurt, but here's an easy way to know if you have vapor lock: If you run the car hard in warm weather, shut it off, try to restart after 2-3 min, and it won't start, you have heat soak / vapor lock.

I'm guessing you have a fuel delivery issue, not vapor lock.

Thanks guys. I recently drove the car (fuel injected) about 12 miles. Shut it off, then restarted it again about 30 min. later. I drove another three miles and it began to run like crap. Thought it was going to quit. Drove it again the following day on basically the same route with no issues. I have cleaned and lined the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter very recently. I have some heat reflective tape I plan to wrap the lines with. Will try to devise a way to isolate the fuel rail from the engine mounts. I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator on the engine but have not verified the fuel pressure. I may install a gauge and monitor it. This issue is intermittent but has happened enough to cause concern. Wanting to make sure the mechanical features of the car are reliable before I start body mods and paint. Again, thanks for the input.

Definitely start off with the fuel pressure. It may well be intermittent, which could even be an electrical issue.

You can rent a FP tester at most big auto parts stores.

Keep us posted!

I have a fuel pressure gauge that can be easily connected to late model fuel injection systems simply by screwing on a fitting.
We actually used it today at my shop to test the fuel system on a motor home.
I looked at the fuel rail on my Z and there are no Schrader valve type fittings.
I assume I should devise a way to tap in to the rail between the fuel regulator and the injectors.

Tapping in between the fuel filter and the fuel rail will tell you if the pump is functioning properly, checking after the regulator will test that function.

Here's something that may be helpful to read as well: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/temp ... index.html

It may be necessary to "trick" the ECU. It's an analog unit that's known to diminish in accuracy and response, frequently getting leaner as it ages.

I've seen a few pumps on these fail intermittently when warm. When the car dies is the pump running? These use an external pump and you can reach under the car and ptu your hand on it to feel for vibration or heat, when they fail they are usually pretty toasty. You can get a fuel line T and put inline on the pressure line to monitor fuel pressure as there are no schrader fittings as found in more modern cars. also the fuel pump on injected cars depends on the AFM sending a signal to the ecu, if the AFM flapper door gets stuck it won't turn the pump on, this often happens when people mount the AFM in a position that does not place the flapper door hinge up top. Also if memory serves the static fuel pressure should be 42psi.

Thanks, I have only had the engine actually quit once the other two times it would almost die. Really have not had the opportunity to systematically troubleshoot it.
I know where the fuel pump is located and the next time the engine acts up, I can check if it is hotter than usual.
I guess I will find a pressure gauge and tie it in just after the fuel filter for starters. I want to place it where I can monitor it while driving of course.
It may be a few days before I can get to do this. meanwhile, I will be looking for a gauge. maybe at Summit racing ?

summit or just about anyone will sell an inline pressure gauge you'll just need a few feet of fuel hose and a "T" fitting to accept the gauge, I loop the gauge under a wiper so i can watch it while driving.