fuel pump problem?

[ahardb0dy]

94 Q45T, 160K miles, fuel pump has been "humming" since we bought the car.

My wife was driving the car home tonight, she stopped at a red light and the car stalled, the engine would crank but every time she tried to give it gas it would stall, I went to where they were stranded and planned on trying to jump the fuel pump control plug wire to ground as I read on here. Not even sure if I had the right control unit, I removed the bulkhead cover and this modeule was just to the right of the fuel pump, the wire harness from the fuel pump/tank "tee'd" off to this module. Wasn't sure which pin to connect to ground, so I checked for power at the plug with a test light, every time I connected the test light to one of the pins I would hear a click and lose power until she turned the key off and on again, Also noticed in this plug and on the corresponding pin on the module that they looked burnt. Checked all the fuses in the car all were good. Disconnected the plug to the fuel pump and than plugged it back in, Went under the hood and squeezed the fuel line coming from the fuel filter trying to see if I could feel fuel going thru the hose, had my wife try to start the car and all of a sudden it started and ran fine all the way home??????????? Fuel level was at about 1/4.

Is it possible that due to the fuel level being so low that the fuel pump got too hot and just needed to cool down, and after sitting for about 35 minutes it finally was able to start again?

I need some help with this I Know I need the fuel pump ( OEM or aftermarket does it matter?) but I don't want to just start replacing parts that I may not need. Thanks

[3Q Jay]

lot of old posts on this issue. the burned pin is the one you jumper. remeber: harness to ground (FPCM is out of circuit at this point).

oem NEW fuel pump.

your fpcm is fried. $380 new from joe or try to find a used one that doesn't smell/have brown pin. I have a 'rebuilt' one (new power transistors, upgraded ground path) that I can let you have for $25 AND your core and you pay all shipping.

[ahardb0dy]

thanks for responding, the FPCM being "fried" does that mean that it creates an intermittent problem? Like I said in my post after I did what I did to try to get the car to run all of a sudden it just started and ran fine, my wife said it actually felt like it was running better. I've read about the fuel pump running at 3 different speeds, what happens when the FPCM is shot? does it cause the fuel pump to not run at all? or can it get "stuck" at one of the speeds and still run?

I know I need a new fuel pump, If I replace the FPCM with the one you have and don't replace the fuel pump at the same time will the fuel pump kill the rebuilt FPCM again quickly or would I have a little time before I could replace the fuel pump?

Any idea what shipping would cost for the rebuilt FPCM, My Zip is 32776?

Thanks

[3Q Jay]

usually there is a broken trace on the fpcm circuit. when it heats it opens, when it cools it makes intermittent contact. if you're good with a soldering iron and you look up the parallel ground wire jumper thread (tangalora), you can prolly salvage your existing fpcm. BUT.the fpcm is burnt because the pump is bad. putting in repaired fpcm witout pump will stress it and eventually fail again. can't say how long.

I'll send you email to take the fpcm transaction offline--if you wish to go that way.

PS- i also live in orange county--CA that is. have retirement home in brevard, though