Fuel pump on 96 Q

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alexander
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I am having the fuel pump replaced on the Q later today at a new stealership that is actually quite reasonable,(compared to other quotes) $500+including labor.If the FPCU looks ok is there a reason to replace that too?Is access to FPCU immediate when they have the new pump in or is additional labor needed to replace the FPCU? Other dealers have quote $800 just to replace the FPCU.


Q45tech
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More work has to be done to access the screws that hold the FPCU to rear package panel. Another hour or two should be fair.

maxnix
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Common practice for some dealers to replace FPCU with pump as the dealer has no idea how long the pump abused the FPCU and don't wnat ta comeback.

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goody90q45
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alexander wrote:If the FPCU looks ok is there a reason to replace that too?

Is access to FPCU immediate when they have the new pump in or is additional labor needed to replace the FPCU?
The stealership in Sacramento has a note on their invoice that the warranty on new fuel pump is void unless the FPCU is purchased and replaced at the same time.

They're going to have to remove the back seat and rear parcel deck to get to the fuel pump so that leaves only 2 additional bolts to remove to replace the FPCU at the same time. If they charge you more than 30 minutes additional labor to replace the FPCU with the fuel pump it's highway robbery.

Congrats on finally taking the leap and getting these two components replaced.

maxnix
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Hey, you forgot they had to unplug it and plug in the new one. Good for another hour of book time, I am sure.

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goody90q45
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You're right except it should already be unplugged to change the fuel pump. I guess I should add 30 minutes though to plug the FPCU back in so now we're back up to an hour.

qship96
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You guys are Generous, I would laugh at any more than 15 minutes time requested to R&R two bolts to swap FPCU.

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Q451990
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10 minutes rounded to the next hour...

From a practical (non warranty standpoint) a bad FPCU will not kill a good fuel pump... but a bad fuel pump will kill a good FPCU.

If the o/p's dealership doesn't require it to honor the warranty on the pump, and you're not having driveability issues now, I would not replace the controller.

BTW, someone needs to fix the tread title (change '06 to '96).

Heath

Q45tech
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Luckily dealers can change anything they want to charge. You came to them not the other way around.

Duh the technican probably spends 15 minutes in line at Parts counter and paper work just to get the part.

qship96
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Sounds like poor management of talented labor if true- why not have a $5.15/hr flunkie or even free labor intern be the one to walk to the parts dept and return with the overpriced part?

Q45tech
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Remember the techs get paid based on billable hours and minutes [to you, the used car department, or Nissan] not salary.

Important to understand the economics of dealers and the only way is full immersion by selling used cars partime for only commission...............that first $100 check will be a joyous occasion.

qship96
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Well isnt that a kick in the kok !!!

alexander
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WEll everyone was right.. New pump... acceleration problem GONE. Actually the power seems quite different. Press gas pedal, and the power just keeps on coming, no lag just raw power. Not quite CL power but very satisfying.Only $600.00 no FPCU though they wanted to do it.On to the next project.Thanks for the push!

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Infinitiguy19
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So that solved all the problems that you thought might have been the knock sensor and some other under plenum things right?

Q45tech
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Of course trying to accelerate with low fuel pressure means a very lean mixture and resultant overheating of pistions and exhaust valves, heads, and cats from the lean mixture.

If one ignores a defective fuel pump for very long they get to buy a new engine due to abuse.

maxnix
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I bet the dealer is counting on that. How could they so misdiagnose it?

Shows there are Senior Infiniti Techs and wannabe senior Infiniti Techs who never learned anything, or at least forgot it it they did.

As Q45tech has commented so many times, OBD I is stupid and because it pops up a component, it does not diagnose why it is reporting a malfunction. That is the tech's job to use his brain and experience for analysis.


qship96
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Q45tech wrote:More work has to be done to access the screws that hold the FPCU to rear package panel. Another hour or two should be fair.
Sounds like something that would be said in an Infiniti training class for service writers on how to double profits without doing hardly any extra work!!!

Q45tech
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OBDI only shows no voltage or above limit voltages, nothing in between.

A code if you are lucky to get one, just shows you WHERE you should begin to look and start your DETAILED time consuming measurements with oscilloscopes and VOM.

Don't confuse a simple Consult diagnosis with a complete engineering series of test.

Luckily experienced on the exact year Q lets technicans GUESS WELL, in that they correlate the numbers of previous component changes that solved the problem.

I was repairing a washing machine, I looked up symptoms on INET, then went to my expert at Parts Store, he told me they sell 200 replacement parts per month. So I bought the $20 part installed to replace the obviously broken $20 part. It ran 30 seconds before the new part exploded.The $20 part was only part of the symptom, a safety valve like a clutch, but the $140 transmission had failed....................new washing machine.

alexander
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Not just one Infiniti tech did not diagnose this pump problem, 5 couldn't fighure out this problem over atwo year period at many $$$ per visit.Last year fuel pressures were checked with the results saying no problem. Even last month's test was 'no problem'.Should have replaced pump anyhow as you guys suggested.Tech yesterday could not figure why I wanted to replace pump, I told them 'just do it'.

Now what should I start replacing??I actually see radiator splatter near fan so new project coming up.

Thanks again Guys.

maxnix
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Get both new radiator caps from Joe and check over flow line to bottle. Next , pressure test radiator (by someone who knows the specification in the FSM, which you supply if necessary.

Why we want numbers like pump pressure at each throttle setting, not just judgements like fine or good.

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goody90q45
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Good to see you finally got it fixed. Try and keep all 4 wheels on the ground as your speeding up and down the hills of San Francisco.
alexander wrote:.......Now what should I start replacing?? I actually see radiator splatter near fan so new project coming up.
Maybe think about having a FPCU on hand for when your present one gives out. They're 33% off at IOS this month which makes the cost a lot more bearable. How's the coolant system? Probably should replace at least the upper and lower radiator hoses before the SF summer starts in October.

alexander
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Guess I am as bad as all the techs that tested the Q.Up and down these wet Sf Hills and the car is the same, just creeping up them.Gotta test under all conditions/weather/temps and time to give an accurate review.Must admit that the ride from San jose to SF last night the power was more accute, different shift changes definite increase in acceleration and sustained accerlation. So I thought the lcity speeds with hills just might be the same, but WRONG.

maxnix
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goody94q45 wrote:Maybe think about having a FPCU on hand for when your present one gives out. They're 33% off at IOS this month which makes the cost a lot more bearable. How's the coolant system? Probably should replace at least the upper and lower radiator hoses before the SF summer starts in October.
Is there ever summer in SF?

If you replace the tow radiator hoses, be sure to replace the sacrifial anode metal tube on the lower hose. Consider converting to OAT and use only distilled (nothing else!) for dilutant.

You probably need to condsider the FPCU, or a trip to Jerry's in SD.

You have TCS, right?

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goody90q45
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alexander wrote:Must admit that the ride from San jose to SF last night the power was more accute, different shift changes definite increase in acceleration and sustained accerlation. So I thought the city speeds with hills just might be the same, but WRONG.
Make one more trip to the mechanic, tell them to go through the trunk and unplug the FPCU, run a jumper wire from the connector pin shown in the pic to ground on the chassis, and take it out for a drive up the hills.

What this does is take the FPCU out of the circuit and runs the fuel pump on one speed only- high. Don't worry, the excess fuel returns to the fuel tank and the pump will turn off when you shut the engine off. If your Q runs well up the hills by bypassing the FPCU it needs replacement. If not we're all full of hot air.


maxnix
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Good procedure, but I am wondering if on wet SF streets the TCS is cutting power to avoid spinning wheels.

If you have TCS, turn off and try same drive first. If tires spin, time to get better tires.

alexander
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Q does not have TCS. Even on dry pavement car struggles on hills. No slipping.But as I said car runs great first fifteen twenty minutes in the day.SF summer is usually in Sept/October. This car has never seen high air temps or for that matter anything below 40 degrees and never any salt (going to Tahoe etc).

maxnix
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Then perform Goody's test procedure.

FP pressure should have been checked, but you should have specified it.

Another alternative is to switch out a known good one or take a chance on a used one to see if it is worse or better.

Remember 1996 is OBD II without intake advance on the cam like the OBD I 1991. And it is heavier.

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MR. Q
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Ever thought about having a Q olympics!


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