Fuel pump not priming.

[ciscos13]

Car was running fine before the problem. It happend after i decided to swap the sr's maf with a z32's maf. when i was connecting the wires together i noticed that the z32's maf pigtail has two black wires. it doesn't have the black/white stripe wire. so i decided that one of the wired must be this one. anyway's, wat can go wrong right? after connecting the wires by hand i decided to try and turn it on before i soldered them and heat shrinked it. after two cranks, nothing. i went back to maybe switch the two black wires, but when i touched them they were pretty hot. after that, i didn't hear the walbro pump buzz anymore. are the maf's wire somehow connected to fuel pumps wires? wat possibly went wrong? i installed back the sr's maf and had the same results. any suggestions?

i pulled out the fuel pump from the car to check it independently. i left the pump submerged in gasoline and connected the wires to an extra battery i had and it squirted gas. at least i know the fuel pump is still working. any ideas would help.

[PyR0NiAk]

You do realize that you can't just hook up a Z32 maf, right? It requires tuning.

[ciscos13]

if i run it without a tune, wat happens? any major problems?

[PyR0NiAk]

WHY would you do this? They use different voltage levels for signal.

Either way it sounds like you crossed some wires and burnt something. I'm not a wiring guru, so hopefully OM3GA will step in here to help, but when my alternator touched my power steering rack when I first did my swap, the ecu no longer triggered the ground. I had to run a separate ground. Oddly enough, after I sent my ecu in for a tune through JWT, the problem was gone. Apparently they saw the problem and fixed it. They never said anything to me about it, though, so I have no idea.

[ciscos13]

k heres an update. i was checking for volts on my relays from the back all the way to the front with a 12v lightbulb. it seemed that they were all getting current through them. once i checked the black/pink stripe from the harness. the fpr needle went up. the fuel pump also kiked in. so i had my older bro turn the key and still didn't fire up. that gave me a clue that it was the ecu. one of the black wires that goes connected to the ecu was melted. (i think pyroniak was right, mb a ground wire.) it also semi melted some of the outer layer of a white wire. when i turn the key the light from the ecu does not light so either the ecu doesnt' work anymore or the black (mb a ground wire still not sure) is just burnt. im first gonna try a different ecu from a friend, if that doesnt work then im get a separate wire, ground it, then stick it in the ecu plug. if still no luck, then ima have to get a whole new wiring harness.
ty pyroniak for the help thumps up (',,)(^_^)

[S-ICHISAN]

just rewire the fuelpump on s13s that wire craps out easy...
the blk/pink runs up the drivers side....and thers two wires at the pump...
just rewire it and i have an sr ecu for sale

[PyR0NiAk]

Deatschwerks sells hardwiring kits for $30

[OM3GA]

Hooking up your MAF wiring wrong is the number one cause of frying ecus. Typically you fry the Ignition switch circuit. I have seen two things happen from it. Sometimes it cuts power to the fuel pump and ignition coil/Ignitor etc. usually by frying the main engine fuse. Other times it fries the diode that allows the power to be cut which means the engine stays running even if you turn the key off and pull it out.

Definitely hardwire your fuel pump and the Deatschwerks kit is definitely the simplest and cleanest. Glad to hear you have got something going.

[ciscos13]

yep, ecu is definatly fryed. :O opened up the ecu and saw, um wat do u can the green stuff of the ecu, well a spot of that was black and was peeling off. and one of the circuit things was toasted hehehe. now im in a search for a cheap ecu close to phoenix, az.

[PyR0NiAk]

Why does it need to be close? They don't cost much to ship..

[zachattack_5491]

Hooking up your MAF wiring wrong is the number one cause of frying ecus. Typically you fry the Ignition switch circuit. I have seen two things happen from it. Sometimes it cuts power to the fuel pump and ignition coil/Ignitor etc. usually by frying the main engine fuse. Other times it fries the diode that allows the power to be cut which means the engine stays running even if you turn the key off and pull it out.

Definitely hardwire your fuel pump and the Deatschwerks kit is definitely the simplest and cleanest. Glad to hear you have got something going.

Sorry to threadjack here, but could you explain this a little more OM3GA? My s13 has had both of those problems since the day I got it. Exactly what diode gets burned out? Is it in the ECU or elsewhere?