Fuel pump isn't priming.

[FusionCola]

Quick question: I got my ca to crank today. It turned over fine, but I'm not getting fuel. I've checked the fuel pump relay and it wasn't clicking. Jumped the relay and the fuel pump primes and sends fuel to the rail. I've got everything grounded (first thing I've checked, I even ran another ground straight from the engine to the chasis). I've got power, obviously. I believe I have spark (going to check that tomorrow). I believe it's a computer problem. I've checked around and people tend to run into fuel pump problems quite a bit with swapping engines. My ecu is also apparently for a DE and not a DET (Not too sure on the ramifications of that bit). I've already sourced the correct ecu with a nistune board installed in it that will be here next week.

I'm fairly certain my problem lies with the ecu, but I'd like to get the car running if at all possible.


Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts or has run into something like this. Anything at all would be helpful.



Thanks in advance,


Sky

TL;DR: Car won't start....WTF!!!!!!? Also wall of text copypasted from facebook. lol




UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Received my CA18det specific ecu and now my pump primes!
Yay for the wiring being straight! The car still won't start, but I'm now running through the list. Checking the timing next. This ecu has a nistune board 1 on it and already has a tune. The guy whom I bought it from says that it has the stock map on it as well, but I'm not sure of that. Anyone have experience with this? As far as I can tell Nistune boards will only hold one tune on them. I also looked up to see how much it would be to retune the car myself and ~300 for the software license and the consult cable to hook it up is a bit steep for me considering I could just put the money towards a real, good, tune and then not have to deal with learning the basics of tuning (although I really would like to figure it out for myself). Thanks for your help guys! I'll keep you all updated on my progress! Who knows I might just turn this into a build thread of some sort, lol.

[boost_boy]

Either your harness is wired incorrectly or your computer is not functioning correctly.

[Spawn_CA18]

if you try fuel pump relay working or not from ECU connector and if it works , surely it is ECU problem .

it was pin 18 as i remember .

[float_6969]

No, I'm pretty sure the ECU grounds the coil on the relay. Don't put 12V to that line. Ground it and the relay should close. If the relay doesn't close, you have a wiring problem.

[Spawn_CA18]

edited it float , since i worked 14 hours today my mind is a little bit confused

surely don't supply 12V from there , ground the pin no 18 .

[float_6969]

Yes, on EF&EC-8, you can see that 12V+ is supplied to one side of the contacts and one side of the coil to the fuel pump relay from a fuse. The other side of the contact on the relay goes to the fuel pump (which is grounded on the pump bracket) and the other side of the coil goes to the ECU. When the ECU wants the fuel pump to turn on, it provides a path to ground for that wire, which should close the relay.

[FusionCola]

Update: Fiddled some more with it yesterday. We have spark! We also grounded the relay, instead of just jumping it, and it ran the pump. I have another problem which is troublesome, following the DIY on nico for the low-budget battery relocation I have put a fuseblock running to the battery terminal with a 100a anl fuse and it popped the fuse, it's done this with both a 100a and a 80a (Only pops it when we try to turn the engine over). I've got a real DET ecu coming in to test and see if the pump will prime. Like I stated I've got a wiring specialties prefabbed harness and followed the instructions to a T during the install. I'm fairly certain that it's wired correctly. I'm now leaning towards it being the ecu, as I've searched and a lot of people have this problem.

[float_6969]

Well keep us in the loop. As for the fuse popping, I don't know how many amps the starter pulls when it's cranking the engine over, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's over 100A.

[FusionCola]

I should be receiving my nistune ecu on Thursday. I'm thinking that a 175a fuse should do fine.

[float_6969]

I just did some looking and you may still blow the 175A. You can try it and see. I think there is probably a reason why Nissan didn't fuse the wire going from the battery to the starter. The current draw from the starter is going to vary a lot. What may work now in the summer, may not work in the winter when the engine is harder to turn over.

Have you looked into a circuit breaker instead of a fuse?

[Spawn_CA18]

you can not "Fuse" the starter motor . Normal working current is more then 50 Amp . Starting current must be like 200 or so(in Technical Dictionary it is named as Rush Current ) . And no point to put 200A fuse to that line .

My suggestion is , Put your Master Fuse after starter , before relay box . there is a 20cm cable between starter and relay box. Fuse it

And other suggestion is , put a Master switch (chinese products works fine i'm using in my s13) before Starter if you want a kill switch .

[FusionCola]

Update bump.

As for the fuse on the starter-battery wire. I'm probably just going to hard-wire it back together and remove the fuse altogether. The wire shouldn't short out on anything as it's not touching anything abrasive enough to fray the wire itself. I had it fused just in case we had a short, so it wouldn't cause a fire (luckily having a killswitch and fire extinguisher should help with that. Possibly could run a circuit breaker instead, but at this point it's not cost effective enough for me since the car isn't running. That will be a project for when the car can actually drive/run.

[FusionCola]

HUGE MONUMENTAL UPDATE: The car is running and driving! Thanks for all your help guys! I'm running on the PO's tune, which was just a stock tune updated to run an n62 maf (I already had one, and dsm 450cc injectors which I got locally for $40.) AFR's look nice and rich and i'm sitting on 5lbs of boost, lol, which will go up with my blitz boost controller. I actually got to drive it to get some gas, lol!

[float_6969]

congrats!

[boost_boy]

I love good news. Congratulations as well .

[FusionCola]

Thanks guys! I'm running through the different problems that are arising. My speedo/reverse lights don't work, lower harness is hooked up wrong (I remember there being a wire without a plug underneath the shifter that isn't plugged in). The tach works fine, as do all of the lights in the dash (no cel ftw!). If I hit the light button the lights will constantly go up and down and never stay up, with a push of the button again the lights will go back down. The light switch that controls whether the light are on works fine and the lights work, so I'm not sure if I really care enough to trouble shoot that. The fans on my radiator need to be wired up also, the PO had a wire going to the fuel pump fuse/relay box, which kept shorting out on the body and blowing fuses. No cooling problems other than that.

The car runs fine with the 370cc injectors on the tune, although it could run smoother I think. I already checked and set the timing to 10btdc. It's been a year since we started this project and my friend is dead set that we have changed the spark plugs, but I can't remember. Gonna pull one and see if it needs replacing. As far as I can tell it has some sort of leak at the exhaust manifold, but I'm running one of these: http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/*I ... 20DET.html. I'm unsure if that would cause it to be so loud when not using the wastegate, I've got a HKS Hi-power and you can barely hear it over the motor. Gotta get a decent tune sometime, but the tune is running stock fuel maps and is only tuned for DSM injectors and an n62 maf, which I have both. I'm going to go ahead and replace all the gaskets for the intake when I install the new injectors and o-rings. Should I replace anything else while I'm there? I might also go ahead and port match the ka24e throttlebody to the plenum since I'll be there. And I need to figure out how to get myself some power steering again, lol. In other news my girlfriend is picking up a 510 shell for my next project. As it sits I've got an s2000 that needs maintenance, an S13 that needs the kinks sorted out, and now there's going to be a 510 that will need a complete build up. That doesn't include the fact that we have to take care of the dd's.


I forgot after this long a** year how much I love 240's. Finishing my first motor swap successfully has also brought me a lot of confidence with my ability to build cars. Sorry for the walls of text, I'm really excited.

[Spawn_CA18]

its nice to hear that you are back on running. Since we all have this pain in the a** car , we share same feelings in all over the world.

[FusionCola]

its nice to hear that you are back on running. Since we all have this pain in the a** car , we share same feelings in all over the world.

Thanks! It can be a pain, but in all honesty the 240 is one of my favorite cars to work on. It's really easy and simple to figure out. Plus I love coupes.