FUEL PROBLEMS NEED HELP???????

[ShouldaHadaV8]

My ka24de has been having problems, when i hit the gas it bogs really bad, so i hooked up a narrow band AFR gauge which showed me that every time i hit the gas i was leaning out, But when i let it idle it slowly became more and more rich, after a closer look i noticed i am getting fuel in the oil...... now i know this is pretty common but the problem i am having is that i dont have leaking injectors or a bad FPR, i replaced the fuel lines and fuel pump, and the car only has 90k, although i dont have a gauge to check compression i dont believe piston rings are the problem. im confused because it leans with throttle then goes rich

I've been battling fixing this car for almost a whole year since the motor swap. How can i find out what the problem is?
$50 to the first person who can fix it. I will mail it straight to you

[moso]

sounds like a stuck injector, its dead and holding half open all the time. yank the fuel rail and observe the injector function while you crank the car. you can flow test the injectors by using cups of the same size, over a given period of time thay should flow the same amount of fuel. alternatively you can start the car and pull the injector plugs one at a time durring idle. the one that dosent kill the cyl is stuck.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

the cup thing sounds like a good idea, but i've looked at the injectors spray pattern it seemed normal. im thinking about buy a brand new rail and injectors just for safety but IDK
What do you mean kills the cyl...???

[moso]

well if the car is running and you pull the electrical connector off the injector it should snap closed and the cyl will begin missfiring unless its stuck open.

[loyalone]

clean your mass air flow sensor first, before throwing money at it. a dirty mass air will make it run lean.

[compactfean]

also check tps voltage when closed and slowly going open should move from .45 v to 4.** volts consistently moving up in voltage. usually the mafs should compensate afr's if a tps is out but you never know.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

I've replaced both.... but i never have been able to get a good reading on my tps. I'll test again this weekend and post the results.

[compactfean]

best way to test it is with back probes or shove paper clips in there. that way your not trying to poke two things hold a dvom and open the throttle at the same time. i spent 50 bucks on back probes with gator clips and test leads and was my best investment ever for doing electrical diag.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiFS4wKx ... 170ad1a413[/youtube]

I haven't bought a new speed sensor yet thats why my gauges dont work. but you can hear the problem when I hit the gas, I can ease on the throttle and it will gain rpm's but it can only get so far untill it bogs out. i've replaced every sensor except the speed sensor. I've replaced every fuel related part or tested it with a spare. i've replaced wiring harnesses, hoses, filters,etc etc. I tried two different intake manifolds, I looked for vacuum leaks even though i have removed the egr emissions and only have one hose running from the intake mani to the FPR.I even replaced the old walbro for a new one. I had someone run ecu talk which only came back that my ignition timing was dropping. and I'm getting code 34 , but it only comes up after i hit the gas and it doesn't throw the code when I let it idle, I guess this is from the bogging and missfire which is what "knock" really is. I was pretty sure that was the problem untill I relized it was more a fuel problem than electrical, when I noticed gas in the oil i knew that for sure. I haven't been able to think of what else could cause the gas in the oil because im pretty sure the piston rings aren't bad the motor only has 90k. I'm running out of ideas, thinking about just saying f_ck it and looking for an LS1 or an old 5.7L 350. but I just want to be able to blow up the ka having some fun first. Im probably going to buy the new in dash LCD verion of ecu talks consult program just to help out.

Offer still stands $50 to the first guy who gives the right answer, and by the way the car has been painted recently.

[loyalone]

have you checked timing?

[ShouldaHadaV8]

20 btdc idle at 750 rpms, I dont think timing would cause the gas in the oil, but no i have not used a timing gun. its not really necessary as long as the dizzy isn't off a tooth and its set at 20 btdc on the pully.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

[loyalone]

speed sensor isn't going to fix the rpm gauge. did you replace the knock sensor? you could try to unplug it. if it thinks it's knocking then it will retard timing and cause low power. also check fuses it's weird that both the speedo and rpm would go out at the same time. i have had a bad connection to the fuel pump cause low fuel pressure, did you check fuel pressure?

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Hmmm...that's strange, my fuel pump definetely has a bad connection because it only works when I turn the cannon plug a certain way, but the in the plugs are fine. it does;nt make much sense to me ididn't think much of it though.
I don't have a fuel pressure gauge so I'm not sure if its correct but like I said I replaced the regulator,injectors,fuel pump, filters,and lines. Unless it is electrical it should be fine.
I did replace the knock snsr. And the gauges never worked for the last owner either. he even replaced the dash and gauges.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

speed sensor isn't going to fix the rpm gauge. did you replace the knock sensor? you could try to unplug it. if it thinks it's knocking then it will retard timing and cause low power. I have had a bad connection to the fuel pump cause low fuel pressure, did you check fuel pressure?

im pretty sure the knock sensor only retards up to 5 degrees but I've also heard it puts on an almost limp mode like state. and what kind of bad connection do you have on your fuel pump, mine is definitely the cannon plug?

[loyalone]

sounds like you replaced everything electrical, did you replace the Ecm and harness when you did the swap? can you get a different ecm to try in it?
get some good heavy gauge wire and go straight from the battery to the fuel pump, to eliminate all possibilities of a bad connection. then if that doesn't work make sure you have good ground to every thing, especially the ecm. make sure you ground the engine block to the chassis when you did the swap. as for the gauges check power and ground there also.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

I swapped the motor and noticed my car was bogging. after replacing all the sensors and the fuel filter and lines. i thought my worn upper engine harness was the problem so i replaced it and the lower harness with no effect. i was having problems with the egi relay. I was jumping it with speaker wire to get power to the fuel pump, it wouldn't would work with a relay in it. turnes out my #28 ecu was the cause so i replaced it with a #29 auto ecu which fixed the relay problem nut not the bogging. thats when i noticed that my cannon plug on the fuel pump wires was weak. I've thought maybe it was a bad ground problem but i replaced the upper and lower harness i check the the ground near the battery on the chassis, on the intake mani., two near the valve cover, one near the master cylinder. and im not sure but i think there are many more I could check. I've seen the fsm but i cant remeber. also its hard to think of what to do next do I buy a new rail and injectors, a fuel pressure gauge, another wiring harness section, bigger ground wires, I dont want to waste money if I can find out what one thing or things is causing it.

[moso]

i would really concentrate on the tps. its probably out of adjustment seeing you replaced it but haven't gotten a good reading on it. they are very sensitive.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

well i never thought too much about the tps because it was bogging before then i replaced the sensor and it still bogged. it seem like when i turn it it doesn't have that much effect regardless of whether or not is unpluged or not when I turn it. so idk ,i've been busy lately so i'll post those tps readings soon.