so my truck sputters alot and iv been searching for a solution and found this

"What i found is that these 720's use a return fuel line with no restriction.. so what you get is ZERO fuel pressure to the carb. I have no idea how these things run at all, unless you have a vane/rotor fuel pump that spits out 7psi or so. What I ended up doing is putting a Purolator ($20) adjustable fuel regulator on the return line, and set it so that I have 3.5psi at all times. It helps to T off a pressure gauge so you can watch it under hood. Anywhoo, my power fade problems are gone."

and use a fpr like this onehttp://images.google.com/imgre...PTwAw

is this true/possible/reasonable/tested?

That sounds feasable. I don't see how they had no pressure to begin with. Weird?

so i tried this and please please please tell me im not retarded and did not put this on the delivery line?





and what the heck are these?

pejsa s-13 wrote:please tell me im not retarded and did not put this on the delivery line?

not really sure... i'll be doing a carb conversion soon tho so i'll be looking into it.... you should be able to tell by following it up to the carb

pejsa s-13 wrote:
and what the heck are these?

i believe the name for them is 'vacuum switching valves'... i may be wrong on the name but they suck... they f*** with air and fuel somehow... if you look at the pic you showed... you'll notice they have electric lines to them as well... you can rid of these parts but what you'll have to do is cut and loop the electrical lines in a 'plug and play' fashion until you get it running right... i honestly believe this process is why my hitachi isn't as much of a piece of s*** as many are...

my carb has some of the same characteristics as some people's webers... it runs a little too rich between 1,000RPM-1,700RPM or so... then starts pulling pretty hard... i also have a feeling that my spark plugs are what allow for it to be rich because they burn the hell out of the fuel

now to answer the question i believe you aiming at 'are they smog required?' i don't know... but it would probably be harder to pass for sure

thank you kindly sir that was almost perfect

P.S. it was the delivery line

lol... nice

yea thats what got my truck runnin all crappy hahaha

so now it runs excelent

additional question for you pezi

my truck has the rear diff that doesnt have the removable cover and today i was playin around and did a burnout in my drive way and both tires got some action. is the rear diff on these LSD?

pejsa s-13 wrote:my truck has the rear diff that doesnt have the removable cover and today i was playin around and did a burnout in my drive way and both tires got some action. is the rear diff on these LSD?

Not necessarily. Even an open differential can spin both tires, espically on flat level, even traction surfaces. The only sure fire way to tell is pull the differential and check out whats in there.

there may be a way to tell what came in the truck originally from the vin or another sticker, but im not sure what it would be

jtbenfie wrote: The only sure fire way to tell is pull the differential and check out whats in there.

too much work lol

you most likely don't... both tires can get traction with an open diff... the easiest way to tell it to jack the rear end up... spin one tire forward... if the other side spins forward you have some sort of LSD... if it spins backwards its open diff

I agree, you most likely don't....

only problem i have with jacking up the rear and spinning the tries is that if it is a limited slip and the clutches are worn from age(all our trucks have some age) they will probably spin opposite like an open diff.

You could always just linclon lock it

Just curious...how did the fuel pressure regulator work out? Did you see much (any) difference in performance?