Fuel injectors what kind are these?

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
jynxtrix
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Car: 95 240sx ca18det swap

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So I've got two sets of fuel injectors, one made me run pig rich, the others may me a run a little lean. too lean. Both sets are jecs, both sets have the same part number (a46-00), and both set's seem to work fine when I kick the ignition over. the only difference is....the guy the engine came from said that one set was stock, and was set was larger (don't remember what size, it's been almost 3 years), one set runs leaner than the other, and one the top of set A, (the leaner ones) are sort of translucent clearish, while set B, which made me run rich, are a yellowish brown color. these were supposedly the larger ones and were in the engine when I purchased it. I swapped them to try calming the idle down (it worked) but now I idle lean, and run lean under boost. Can anyone tell me what their ca came with maybe? Any help is appreciated

Oh and i tried searching, I found a little bit on google, but mostly just mixed opinions and arguments. Nothing actually helpful.


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themadscientist
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The first set are possibly 370cc CA18DET, the second are definitely 444cc RB26DETT

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float_6969
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I concur with TMS. Now why the stockers make you run lean is a different story.

Make another post and we can start addressing it in there.

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themadscientist
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pics would be helpful.

jynxtrix
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I'll get on that as soon as I get home, pics that is. I'm planning on pulling them all out this evening anyway. I'm gonna put the larger ones in when I put my turbo back on tonight, to prevent me from running lean for now. one of the three ecu's I have is supposedly tuned for the larger injectors, I just have no way of knowing which, cause none of them seem to have made any difference before, but I've cleaned things up alot, and with my newly rebuilt turbo it should run alot better, since I won't be spraying oil thru my intake anymore. I'll keep everyone posted when I start my new thread.

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themadscientist
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If you ran the ECU chipped to make the 444s run smooth below boost to time the 370s then they would be too lean with the pulsewidths changed.

jynxtrix
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Car: 95 240sx ca18det swap

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these are the two injector sets, I'm guessing the ones on the left are the larger from what you saidWe should start a thread to help identify all the different types of injectors that are compatible with our cars. We could call it "Name That Injector" lol.

jynxtrix
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okay, swapped them out, runs better, but still wants to run lean between 5-7 psi boost, and the engine is getting hot as hell, idles fine but doesn't like to be driven around. I have an electric fan wired in to run as soon as the key is on, but still can't figure it out, if i rev it up a little it starts to cool off, but as soon as boost starts being applied, she goes nuts on temperature and runs lean. Words of wisdom? from anywhere? please?

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themadscientist
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fuel pressure is???

jynxtrix
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I have no clue what my fuel pressure is. Which would be a very valid concern as I am NOT running a walbro fuel pump (though I should be) That's actually this payday's upgrade is the fuel pump and a cheap fuel pressure gauge if I can find one. Next will be a safc if I can find one, cause it doesn't seem like the vafc that i tried to use is having any effect at all. Or maybe it just can't accomplish anything cause the fuel pump isn't strong enough to support it. Oh an the over heating issue appears to be solved. I had a hose going into my firewall kinked, turns out it was one of the ones directly off the water pump...

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themadscientist
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The stock KA pump would feed a stock CA18DET but if it was tired it would be fine until you started going into boost and demand ramped up. Then your pressure would drop and you would see what you are seeing. Without a gauge it's impossible to know. Fuel pressure is one of my must have gauges.

jynxtrix
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yeah, it should be for me too. I ran a dsm project i had lean once and melted a hole thru the piston. lesson learned there, lol. That's why I'm being so damn cautious this time.

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ca18detgabby
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why if you have a chipped ECU do you have a VAFC? take that s*** out of there and go back to square one.

how are you checking lean vs rich vs good?

jynxtrix
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i have the piggy back because I originally thought the ecu was bad when i was doing my wiring, I bought an ecu that was stock, so i needed something to tune it, and that was laying around from an old project, so i installed it. Then, i found out that it wasn't my ecu, I just paid to have a piss poor wiring job done (i think I've b****ed enough about who), when I got it running, i never had a reason to uninstall it. Bad news is, that now I have 3 ecu's, and no way to tell which is chipped. All I can tell is that two are for manuals and one is for an auto. I'm pretty sure it's one of the two manual transmission ecu's that are chipped but i can't tell which because they seem to run the same and I can find no distinguishing markings. I'm gonna take the vafc out this weekend when I put in my new (walbro 255) fuel pump. Now as far my air/fuel ratio goes, I'm using a narrow band afr gauge, I know it's not the best, but it's what I got, and so far it's made out to be a pretty damn dependable idiot light, which should be all i need for the time being since all I'm trying to do is get the stock setup running for now. I have VERY MODEST goals for this engine, that being said, everything else can come in time, for now, I just want to put together a reasonably dependable dd.

boost_boy
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jynxtrix wrote:i have the piggy back because I originally thought the ecu was bad when i was doing my wiring, I bought an ecu that was stock, so i needed something to tune it, and that was laying around from an old project, so i installed it. Then, i found out that it wasn't my ecu, I just paid to have a piss poor wiring job done (i think I've b****ed enough about who), when I got it running, i never had a reason to uninstall it. Bad news is, that now I have 3 ecu's, and no way to tell which is chipped. All I can tell is that two are for manuals and one is for an auto. I'm pretty sure it's one of the two manual transmission ecu's that are chipped but i can't tell which because they seem to run the same and I can find no distinguishing markings. I'm gonna take the vafc out this weekend when I put in my new (walbro 255) fuel pump. Now as far my air/fuel ratio goes, I'm using a narrow band afr gauge, I know it's not the best, but it's what I got, and so far it's made out to be a pretty damn dependable idiot light, which should be all i need for the time being since all I'm trying to do is get the stock setup running for now. I have VERY MODEST goals for this engine, that being said, everything else can come in time, for now, I just want to put together a reasonably dependable dd.
If you need to find out which ecu is chipped, just open them up and you'll see what you need to see. I'm with gabby on afc stuff in the fact that if you are not knowledgeable at what you're doing, you shouldn't be doing it. This engine is no 4G6?, but it is very unforgiving like the DSM plant if you screw-up. Open the ecus and go back to stock to get everything right. If you don't do this, not even GOD himself can help you with what's in store for you.

Dee

jynxtrix
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 2:41 pm
Car: 95 240sx ca18det swap

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I cracked open the ecu's earlier, the chips all have the stickers, that match the codes on the cases. so I'm guessing none of them are tuned and the guy who sold me it lied. Go figure, I guess I was due to be the douche bag eventually right? I'm taking out the vafc. I've got an safc2, but I'm going to wait to install it until after I get a base line on the stock ECU's and see which runs the best, though my guess still remains that they are all the same. And yes. The DSM (eclipse, talon, laser) are like a special needs child. They require constant attention or they WILL embarrass you in public.


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