Fuel: injectors and rails: switch to newer???

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
Veeridian
Posts: 13
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2015 3:14 pm
Car: 1990 300zx NA 2+0
2004 JEEP Liberty Renegade
Location: Boise, ID

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1990 Nissan 300zx z32 base NA engine (actually I had a JDM engine installed about 2.5 years ago)

I seem to have a recurring fuel injection issue where I need to replace at least one of them each year. This becomes a pain. I've been running non-ethanol fuel for the past 2 years and that didn't seem to make a difference. One of them right now needs to be changed.
I don't know if my car has the black or blue injectors (or if that matters even as long as they are all the same injector). Someone can correct me on that if there is an issue there.
I was thinking of switching from the old fuel injectors (89-92) to the newer fuel injectors (93-96 models).
What I would like to know is if it is possible to do so fairly easily or not. Will the newer ones fit the fuel rail on my current car and will the connectors fit? Or do I need to switch to a newer fuel rail and newer connectors? And if I do that, will that mess up the fuel delivery and would I need to have something changed in the ECU to compensate for the newer parts?
Lots of questions for one little change that may not end up so little.
If anyone knows please let me know. I won't make any changes until I've done enough research and someone who knows what they are talking about lets me know.
Thanks


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NolimitZ32
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:07 am
Car: 91 AG2 2+0 TTMT swap/E39 BMW 540i6/E53 4.6is Dinan S3
Location: Houston, TX

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Been discussed MANY times, you should search, here is the short of it:
- You need new pig tails for phase 2 injectors on a phase 1 engine.
- The phase 2 (new style) injectors will also require an adapter kit sold by DW and Z1 (i'm sure others sell them too) to fit in the phase 1 rails.
- You cannot swap over a phase 2 rail into a phase 1 lower manifold.
- The issue you are having has little to do with ethanol fuel, the injectors are dying because they are old, you should replace the rest together and go on with your life.

itsa300zx
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Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 9:39 am
Car: 1990 300zx NA W/TT swap
2011 Nissan Rogue S
2008 Highlander SR5
Location: up North

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Look at this link, I have used them a few times. best value out there with out going brand new.
I would contact Bernie to see if he has any kits.

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forum ... n-Kit.html

Veeridian
Posts: 13
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2015 3:14 pm
Car: 1990 300zx NA 2+0
2004 JEEP Liberty Renegade
Location: Boise, ID

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Thanks for the info guys. I will take the cost into consideration.
Last year I did replace all 6 of them. I don't have enough money to replace all 6 again this year. There's got to be another reason for them going bad so often.

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NolimitZ32
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Car: 91 AG2 2+0 TTMT swap/E39 BMW 540i6/E53 4.6is Dinan S3
Location: Houston, TX

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You replaced all 6 with new injectors a year ago and they are failing again?

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DCaff300ZX
Posts: 4202
Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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Veeridian wrote:
Mon Nov 27, 2017 2:22 pm
Thanks for the info guys. I will take the cost into consideration.
Last year I did replace all 6 of them. I don't have enough money to replace all 6 again this year. There's got to be another reason for them going bad so often.
Yes, the problem is electrolysis and the "always on" state of our Z32 injectors.
Nissan did away with the problem in '95, but there is a how-to for doing the job yourself (tt.net; very easy) and which I have done to both of my Z's.

Veeridian
Posts: 13
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2015 3:14 pm
Car: 1990 300zx NA 2+0
2004 JEEP Liberty Renegade
Location: Boise, ID

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DCaff300ZX wrote:
Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:11 am
Veeridian wrote:
Mon Nov 27, 2017 2:22 pm
Thanks for the info guys. I will take the cost into consideration.
Last year I did replace all 6 of them. I don't have enough money to replace all 6 again this year. There's got to be another reason for them going bad so often.
Yes, the problem is electrolysis and the "always on" state of our Z32 injectors.
Nissan did away with the problem in '95, but there is a how-to for doing the job yourself (tt.net; very easy) and which I have done to both of my Z's.
Whenever I put in 'tt.net' i get some music site for TwinTone... is that the correct site? or is there another one? Just wondering. I'd love to do something that will make my Z better and run more reliably.
I did find this though: https://www.z1motorsports.com/fuel-syst ... -3348.html
Is this what you were referring to?

itsa300zx
Posts: 1287
Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 9:39 am
Car: 1990 300zx NA W/TT swap
2011 Nissan Rogue S
2008 Highlander SR5
Location: up North

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Veeridian wrote:
Thu Nov 30, 2017 4:26 pm
DCaff300ZX wrote:
Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:11 am


Yes, the problem is electrolysis and the "always on" state of our Z32 injectors.
Nissan did away with the problem in '95, but there is a how-to for doing the job yourself (tt.net; very easy) and which I have done to both of my Z's.
Whenever I put in 'tt.net' i get some music site for TwinTone... is that the correct site? or is there another one? Just wondering. I'd love to do something that will make my Z better and run more reliably.
I did find this though: https://www.z1motorsports.com/fuel-syst ... -3348.html
Is this what you were referring to?

I guess you didn't put 2+2 together, lol. Also didn't look at the link I referred to. TT.net=twinturbo.net.

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NolimitZ32
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Car: 91 AG2 2+0 TTMT swap/E39 BMW 540i6/E53 4.6is Dinan S3
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Yes the Z1 link is what you'll need.

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DCaff300ZX
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1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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Sorry OP for not checking back quickly.
As mentioned the Z1 link is good and covers much of the issue, except the always-on electrical state of the earlier model Z32's injectors.
This wiring issue can be corrected with a how-to on twinturbo.net, in addition to what's been covered here. This issue was fixed by Nissan for '95 and up Z's, and will ensure no electrolysis issues as well.
Full disclosure- doing the wiring mod makes the ECU unable to store problem codes. It will display them as normal, but can't save them for reference by you/it later.
The solution to reading a code should you do the mod, is to note a code presenting and stop/park safely, DO NOT KEY THE CAR ALL THE WAY OFF but just key back to ON and proceed to read your code as normal. The ECU will always display a code when it should, as normal, just storing it is the problem for DIY/reporting use and therefore the solution.


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