Fuel injector harness VQ35DE 2004 Quest SE

[schuylkill]

I need to either splice in the sub harness connector or replace the harness. I'm a little dizzy now from the crappy day I've had but the connector has 8 wires and since there are 6 injectors I am assuming that I need the harness with the "knock" whatever that may be. On ebay I see the harness with the knock having the 6 injector connectors plus 2 other connectors of some sort. Can anyone tell me if that is the one I should purchase? They're about $50 either way.

[schuylkill]

The harness on ebay is for the 350Z. Would that be the same harness used on the Quest? I believe it's the same engine so I would think it's the same harness. Stinking squirrels.

[schuylkill]

The engine isn't oriented in the Z as in the Quest. I could probably modify the harness as long as the connectors are all the same to make it fit, or just snip off and splice in the connector. I gotta get a second vehicle or a newer one that's squirrel resistant.

[VStar650CL]

You're looking at the wrong harness, the one for the injectors is p/n 24079-7Y000 and they list for around $250. They fit '04~'08 Maxima, '03~'06 VQ Altima, and '04~'09 Quest. The individual connectors are generally available as pigtails on eBay or Amazon provided the harness body isn't destroyed.

[schuylkill]

TY as always

[schuylkill]

Is there a pn for the connector?

[VStar650CL]

There is, but Nissan connector p/n's are pretty useless because they don't directly correspond to a repair kit p/n. Sounds like that's what you really need. I probably have the pigtails you need in our dealer collection, I just PM'd you my email.

[schuylkill]

I don't see the connector on ebay or amazon, only the fuel injector connectors.

[VStar650CL]

You generally need to do some hunting to find the 6-pin and 8-pin types because part numbers are absent. Unfortunately, the connector lookup for the Quest only goes back to '11, so I can't even tell you from that. I know those particular connectors are used on some later model stuff in other places, but matching it up without a reference is a head-scratcher. Post a pic or email me one and I'll see what I can do.

Just to be clear, is the problem simply that the wires are chewed down to the back of the housing? If so, I can show you generally how to unpin the housing, and once the pins are out you can solder new conductors to them. That may be your quickest fix if you can solder.

[VStar650CL]

I'm pretty sure this is the type you need, although this one only has 7 positions stuffed. This is the only one we have at the dealership:

[VStar650CL]

One other thing you can do for a quick fix is just discard the connectors on both sides and replace them with an 8-pin Deutsch connector set. These are all over eBay and Amazon:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265134041742

[schuylkill]

Is the wire gauge critical?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352882669259?_ ... R-rNj8ekZQ

[VStar650CL]

No, most injectors draw 3~4 amps and they only draw for a short amount of time, so resistive heating is minimal. By electrical thumb rules, anything 23AWG or thicker will work fine for an intermittent 4A circuit. HO2S heaters draw even less, usually under 1A. So gauge is pretty uncritical for all the circuits on that connector.

[schuylkill]

Either I did a poor repair job or I'm missing some other damage, still getting a flashing CEL and it's running like crap. I'm color blind so my son was my wire ID guy. I really think the wires are matched correctly, but maybe not, so perhaps the splicing and crimping I did is faulty. Getting a P0300 code.

[VStar650CL]

It's not easy to track down wire-to-wire connections in the older FSM's, but I managed to find everything on F44:F101. None of the wires change colors across the connector:

Pin 1 - Blue/White - Injector #5
Pin 2 - Red/Yellow - Injector #3
Pin 3 - Pink/Red - Purge Valve
Pin 4 - Red/Green - IVT Solenoid+ Bank1
Pin 5 - Red - Injector Batt+
Pin 6 - Red/Black - Injector #1
Pin 7 - Red/Blue - IVT Solenoid- Bank 1
Pin 8 - Pink/Blue - Oil Pressure Switch

Make sure you have power on pins 4 and 6, and back probe voltage on the injector pins for comparison, they should all read about the same with the engine running. My fear is that maybe the critters shorted one of them to the Red or Red/Green wire. If that happened it would blow the drive tran-sistor for that injector in the ECM as soon as the engine was cranked.

[schuylkill]

I missed a wire that was in another bundle. Did the trick! So annoying and disruptive. Thanks again.

[VStar650CL]

[VStar650CL]

PS - If the smell of peppermint doesn't bother you, hit your whole engine box with dilute peppermint oil. It's the sovereign chaser for all sorts of rodentia (and even some that aren't rodents, like opossums).

[schuylkill]

I got some killer peppermint bags off of amazon. I didn't pay attention if it was even mentioned but they are made in China for Bug Stars Termite and Pest Control in New Orleans. They are "exempt from registration with the US EPA and are 25.8% peppermint and 74.2% other ingredients. Sounds real safe. Anyway I'm putting them under the hood when it's sitting for awhile. The squirrels must be building their nests at night.

Still have CEL but it's not flashing and it's running well. Codes are P1111 and P0057. I took the day off. Actually went to a dentist to schedule an appointment for tomorrow, broken tooth that developed an abscess.

[VStar650CL]

P0057 is for the heater on the bank2 downstream HO2S. It's noplace near the chewed connector, so you may have some further nibbles underneath the car. P1111 is the bank1 IVT, which is on the same connector. So you may have a bad repair on either the Red-Green or Red/Blue wire, or the squirrels may have blown the IVT driver. Red/Green should read battery voltage anytime the key is on. If you back-probe Red/Blue at the bank1 IVT, it should read battery voltage at idle but goosing it to 2~3K RPM should cause a momentary drop. If there's no drop in voltage, then either Red/Blue is open-circuit to the ECM or the squirrels shorted the wires and blew the ECM driver.

[schuylkill]

Went out this morning for my run and checked in on the van on the way and they struck again. Didn't go for a run and just quit working on the latest attack. I have all the wires back together and wrapped them with some Honda rodent tape, probably a waste of money. I'm taking a break then I'm going to do the peppermint spray, probably just mixing it with water. I have my shop vac in front of the van and have the switch on so I can plug in the extension cord to it at my back porch and it will start up. I'm going to fire it up a few times tonight though I'll probably pass out early. I don't have any neighbors nearby. Leaning over for hours to do that work is exhausting. Oh breaking news. Somehow when I plugged into the computer I bent one of the pins so it was smashed against the side of the housing and not engaged. I probably did it when I was testing that the van would start before I buttoned things up. The computer wasn't installed, just sitting in the bay and I had a ground wire rigged to the battery. That's fixed now. Hopefully no self inflicted damage resulted. What a mess.

[schuylkill]

Ordered an ultrasonic device, 4.9 stars on Amazon. You know this is serious when I'm spending money.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DHTNPRCR/re ... UTF8&psc=1

[schuylkill]

Flashing CEL is back with code P1111 and pending P0301. Could this possibly be a bad repair of a wire(s) or is it likely damage to ecu? Also, as I drove around the block the cel would turn off temporarily intermittently. If it could be a wiring problem is there a way to isolate which wire(s) would be the culprit(s)? I read an article on squirrels nesting. They mate in February and June. It is the pregnant female building a nest for her pending litter that I'm dealing with.

[VStar650CL]

Check out my last post, the P1111 could definitely be from wiring or the squirrels could have shorted the IVT wires and damaged the ECM. You need to put a voltmeter on the IVT connections to find out.

[schuylkill]

I'm pulling off the plenum to check #1 coil wires. #1 cylinder is right where most of the chewing occurred so I figure it's worth a shot and with the 0301 code.

[schuylkill]

It won't start now since I pulled the plenum. I don't see any hoses or connectors I missed when reinstalling. There is an ECM for a 5 speed on car-part.com with a warranty of some sort for $99 plus shipping. I bought an engine for my civic from that JY years ago and was very satisfied with it and the service.

[schuylkill]

It won't start. Before I plug in the cpu that's ordered, could you please forgive my ignorance and give me steps to follow with my volt/ohm meter to test the wiring harness? Currently the deutsch connector is spliced into the harness and plugged together. I'm thinking I should check each male and female pin connector for each wire. Should this be done with the battery hooked up and must it be done by back probing? Can I have the plug unplugged and check the pins and the female receptacle on the face of the connector? Should I be looking for voltage or ohms? I was going to pull a spark plug to check that there's spark. It cranks and the fuel pump is making a noise. I smart charged the battery and it's at 12.8 volts. Damn momma squirrel!

[schuylkill]

Reviewing the posts, there should be power on wires 4 and 6 so the battery must be connected for this test. What should I check for the other 6 wires? Thanks

[VStar650CL]

1, 2, and 6 should blink a noid light for the injectors when cranking. Pins 3 and 7 should both show battery voltage at cranking or idle, a lower voltage above 2000 RPM with the engine warm. Pin 8 should show 0V when there's no oil pressure, 12V or 5V (not sure which) when the pressure comes up.