fuel in intake

[73EB]

Its not normal for fuel to be in the intake is It? Its wet on both sides but puddling on the pass side where I'm having issues.

[es.biggs]

In the manifold? That's not normal at all.

[73EB]

lol, I didn't think so. Is there anything that would cause it to come up through the ports or do I most likely have a vac line hooked to a fuel line. recent engine install.

[es.biggs]

Is the engine running

[73EB]

yeah it runs. I can pull any three of the pass side coil plugs off and it doesn't effect the way it runs. but yet they have spark. all the injctors ohm out ok. anyways, at first it smelled like fuel but its mostly oil on the pass side. Any ideas?

[73EB]

could it be because i plugged one of the pcv vavles for 30 seconds?

[73EB]

Ok. so I pulled my plugs. The pass side 3 are wet with fuel and fuel only. the driver's side are burning correctly. I checked the spark on all three pass side coils and there is spark. And again when its running I can pull any of the pass side coil ele plugs and it does not effect the way the car runs. Does this not make sense to anyone else? any vac lines cause this sort of problem?

[marty1mc]

Only three things affect the cylinder firing (fuel, air and spark). It sounds like you have fuel and spark, have you checked compression and timing (specifically valve timing). I have seen where the timing belt was installed incorrectly using the backing plate as a reference instead of the cams to the lines on the belt. The valve timing was off by 2 teeth on the right side (passenger) and the drivers side was perfect.

So, I would do a compression test, and check the timing belt.

[73EB]

I felt it also had to be the t-belt. so last week I pulled the top covers and put the crank on 0. Now when I put the belt on I used the online FSM and counted the cogs/teeth like the manual said. After I would rotate the engine a few times I would re-count doing this probably six times to make sure it was right. Now when I pulled it apart last week I didn't pull the bottom cover and probably should have. I recheck the count between all four cams and it was good. I was thinking the pass side was going to be closer or further from the driver's side since the driver's side appeared to firing correctly.

So I will do another comp test, and let me know if the way I did the belt was wrong. I didn't see any marks on the belt I bought. It was ftermarket. Oh, and even though the count on the teeth was correct it still lined up with the rear cover marks. Any help appreciated. I'm about to lose my mind on this thing. Thanks

[marty1mc]

If it lined up against the reference marks, then align the cams to the marks and recheck the teeth count between them. If that lines up, then look at the crank damper pulley, it should be at zero degrees. If it is, then your crank is likely lined up with the cams. You can do this without pulling off the bottom cover.

If it isn't on zero, set the crank to zero on the back cover and recheck the cams. If the cams still line up as before, you are probably ok. You can't really tell without pulling the bottom cover and counting the teeth between the crank pulley and the exhaust cam on the driver's side. But, you should be able to move on if everything looks right.

[73EB]

Ok, how long do you crank an engine while doing a comp test. I've always done 4 to 5 seconds.

[marty1mc]

I usually crank it 5-10 secs. But, pull the ignition relay and make sure you are wide open throttle. It's best when warm and the cylinders may read low since you have pretty much washed them with gas. Look for very low readings.

[73EB]

ok thanks

[es.biggs]

Just crank it til the reading on the gauge stops going up - then you know you got to the maximum compression for that cylinder.