There are 2 temperature sensors [a single wire inaccurate one for inside gauge] and a 2 wire accurate [when new] one telling ecu what the head output coolant temperature is!
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm12 ... chtemp.htm
What most don't see are the milestones during the warmup phase 122F, 138F, 160F,[176F.........194.99F], 195F,200F, 205F, 210F, 215F [over 220F.................]
Unless the ecu temp reads 176F or higher a multiplier is added to the fuel injection [[at 160F it is only about 3% but that means a bad thermostat can increase fuel consumption by 3-5% [or worse]] alone.
The point is you MUST observe the injector open time at idle and steady cruise to determine if you are using more fuel than you should [2.0 at idle and 2.2 at 60 mph cruise]........even 0.2 more means 10% more fuel than normal thus 10% less mileage.
If O2 sensors have 100k on them they maybe in spec [functioning?] but not optimum for squeezing every MPG out.........you must observe them on a scope and count the number of switches per minute and make sure the lean time is equal to the rich time [balanced]......called cross counts per minute.
Many things [tests] on a Consult say OK when it just means the item is functioning and has not totally failed.
If you have ever had a MAF failure or intermittent MAF contacts you always need an emission test to check the health of the CATS..........if HC is high the cats may have partially melted adding exhaust back pressure [remove O2 and install a pressure gauge so you can check back pressure at cruise and WOT].
Oxygenated fuel 5%O2 3-10%Thermostat 3-5%Who knows what else and you can see how you can drop MPG by 20% easily.
I can assure you that most techs are not detailed enough to go looking for MPG problems they just write most off as driver problems or fuel problems.