fuel concerns

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
silviaNE
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hi

I just got my turbo and manifold in. I have almost all my parts now, but have yet to come up with any ideas reguarding fuel delivery. I do have 370cc injectors, but who to program ecu or use boost dependent fmu? Help!!!!!!!!!!! This aspect of the install is killing me.


silviaNE
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sorry guys, forgot to post hp. I am looking to go between 250-300hp

S13Ka24e
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If you plan to run 370cc injectors then you need either a reprogramed ECU (JWT) , a piggy back (apexi SAFC), or standalone. The piggy back is the cheapest, the JWT is the easiest and standalone is the best. I would suggest JWT just casue that is plug and play. If you run 370cc injectors at 100% duty cycle then you could get 281.9 hp from them, at 85% then about 240hp.

silviaNE
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thank you for your reply. How hard is it to tune safc?

S13Ka24e
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Sorry but i don't know b/c i have never tried it. I know others on this board have used a piggy back, would one of you guys tell us.

piratepete
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Or you could modify your stock mafs. Stick the sensor in a larger pipe.

Turbo 510
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The JWT ECU is very easy to work with as it is plug and play as stated above. The only thing is that if you have problems, there is no way to adjust it or maps to read to see where your problems may be. Sticking the stock MAF in a larger pipe will not help it to read more airflow but will only allow more air to pass. The Stock MAF will only read airflow up to 5 volts (don'y know what the CFM is) which will equate to around 280 hp. Beyond that, the stock injectors need to be upgraded to MSD 50 lb.(you will need to fab a new fuel rail) or possibly the NISMO 555 cc (will drop into the stock fuel rail which does flow enough, contrary to marketing hype). In addition a MAF from an early 90's Mustang Cobra must be used because of it's ability to read flow in excess of 5 volts (it is a big sucker). Along with this, the ECU will again need to be reprogramed to recognize flow above 5 volts and tell the new injectors what to do. JWT has all of the info on this upgrade. Try to speak with Clark if possible when you call them.

silviaNE
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thanks for the info, Anyone know average cost for JWT ecu upgrade and the turn around time?

Turbo_Nismo_EC
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BTW..anybody in Texas, in the Dallas / Ft. Worth area I know of for sure....I know three people who have JWT ECU's and NONE of them have passed the new emissions checking. Just for anyone who reads this.

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erich
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Turbo_Nismo_EC wrote:BTW..anybody in Texas, in the Dallas / Ft. Worth area I know of for sure....I know three people who have JWT ECU's and NONE of them have passed the new emissions checking. Just for anyone who reads this.


I passed the Vancouver BC 'Air Care' emissions test with a JWT setup. Full dyno test at 60kmh, passed with flying colors.

Turbo_Nismo_EC
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Yeah they all passed it last year no problem, but apparently the new "dyno" set-up is much tougher. They pass the idle portion, but the part where they actually drive your car on the dyno is harder to pass apparently. I haven't had my inspection done yet(it's due this month), but I think I will pass with no problems...but then again I have a brand new engine and the stock ECU.

I'd better pass

maxpsi
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I have 2 ECUs for sale if you are wanting one to send to JWT rather then putting your car down to send yours. The ECUs i have are for 91-94 (OBD1). Or you can buy mine and let JWT give you credit for them. I think they give $100 credit for each ecu extra you send them. I am selling these for $50 each.

maxpsi
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silviaNE wrote:thanks for the info, Anyone know average cost for JWT ecu upgrade and the turn around time?
I beleive its about $600. Turn around is about 2-3 weeks sometimes longer.

Turbo 510
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The JWT upgrade is $595 for the KADE and slightly less (I think) for the E. After you have them do it once any changes are $100 (like upgrading to the larger injectors/MAF) the turnaround time on mine was less than a week. Out on Monday back on Friday. I am not sure if this is typical but it was very quick.

sr20det
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its about 500 - 600 usd, just look around or u can send it to http://www.srswap.com for porgramming, they can do it for 575 usd.

Jeff240sx
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Turbo 510 wrote: a MAF from an early 90's Mustang Cobra must be used because of it's ability to read flow in excess of 5 volts (it is a big sucker). Along with this, the ECU will again need to be reprogramed to recognize flow above 5 volts and tell the new injectors what to do.


Come on now! It's not an early '90's mustang cobra, it's a 1993 Mustang Cobra with a specific part number, and it's cold outside so I don't wanna check to find it out.Also, ALL mafs, yes, every single one run on a 5v scale. The difference in mafs are the sample tube. Since the Cobra maf is 2x the size, the voltage will read out 1/2 of what it would with the KA. That's not good on stock injectors, but it is on 50#, because 1/2 of stock maf maxed out at 5v is exactly 270cc worth of fuel with 50# injectors and a cobra maf. It doesn't go in excess of 5 volts. And you gain power because instead of maxing out at 280hp with the KA maf, you'll be running 2.5v from the cobra, and can theoretically max out at 560hp.And really, you don't even need an ecu reprogram to run the Cobra maf. Just the maf and some 50# injectors. You'll run slightly rich at idle, but other than that, it will work fine. I think you'll be 2% rich or something.

Also... s13 guy, you can't run injectors at 100% duty cycle. You can't even run them at 90%. They will just hold open, and it's impossible to tune up there.Think about telling people what you are telling them. Posting innacurate info helps nothing but mabey your post count. This is a turbo motor, and very specific on stuff... you can't guess that 280hp is good on 370cc injectors, cuz someone out there will blow their motor on that advice.-Jeff

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cnichols
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S13Ka24e wrote:If you plan to run 370cc injectors then you need either a reprogramed ECU (JWT) , a piggy back (apexi SAFC), or standalone. The piggy back is the cheapest, the JWT is the easiest and standalone is the best. I would suggest JWT just casue that is plug and play. If you run 370cc injectors at 100% duty cycle then you could get 281.9 hp from them, at 85% then about 240hp.


Are you serious with that 281.9 number? Come on...just because you plug in some numbers and get a theoretical answer doesn't mean it's trustworthy in the least. There are TOO MANY REAL WORLD factors that come into play to be using a calculation.

Everyone seems obsessed with horsepower and it's always quoted in the goals of the car. Honestly, who gives a s***...it's just a number...and a number based on torque. How many of you actually have a dyno to measure it anyways? Build your car to run reliably....what good is 281.9 hp if it lasts all of 3 seconds?

I personally haven't even given it a thought unless some idiot asks me what I'm expecting. Frankly, I don't know and don't care. All I know is that I'm using a wideband O2 and a standalone to tune my HKS GT3037 powered KA. If I only get 250hp...oh well. At least I'll know exactly what's going on in my engine and have the ability to change it without being limited.

Which brings me to another point...have some patience. I'm not rich...I didn't go out and buy all my parts in a single day. I haven't driven my car in a year, but when I do...I will have a goofy-a$$ grin plastered on my face for a month.

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huguetpj
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cnichols wrote:...I will have a goofy-a$$ grin plastered on my face for a month.


kudos on the goofy-a$$ grin :pface

S13Ka24e
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S13Ka24e wrote:If you run 370cc injectors at 100% duty cycle then you could get 281.9 hp from them, at 85% then about 240hp.
cnichols wrote:Are you serious with that 281.9 number? Come on...just because you plug in some numbers and get a theoretical answer doesn't mean it's trustworthy in the least. There are TOO MANY REAL WORLD factors that come into play to be using a calculation.


So i used a formual to figure out what the theoretical hp will be. That is why i gave the second number. I felt that I was saying that if you have a boost spike then you should still have 40hp worth of feul. I gave the second number the "about 240hp" because that is what I thought you could safely run with 370cc injectors at 85% duty cycle. I'm a math guy I like to see the numbers and I realize that the real world conditions will be different, but using these numbers is better than nothing. And he told us his HP range, so I gave him an HP number. Had he said he wanted 10psi I could have told him that 370cc injector will probably be enough, but he said HP so I said Hp. Sorry If I confused you or anyone but you should only run at 85% or less. I know you can't tune above 90%, but does that mean people don't run above that, no, look at FMU set up for the 240sx. Your injectors will run at 100% cycle after about 4 psi. Does that mean people with stock injectors should stop boosting at 2-3psi? Because that would be when the stock injectors go to 85% duty. But with the FMU people run 100% cycle from about 4 psi to what there boost is set at. Also who out there would run there engine up to 280hp with my advise alone, not look at a A/F gauge, or an EGT gauge. I thought he wanted an guess of how much hp and I gave him the number "about 240hp". If this guy gets serious and does do what he wants he is going to do tuning and when it goes lean he will pull back, He wanted a guess I gave him one. 370cc about 240hp.

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cnichols
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I didn't mean to jump on you specifically...just finally had to vent about all the people posting "I want this hp...what do I do?" That drives me insane.

I like your sig...damn right.


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