fsm oil pressure

[krayton]

so what is it?

im reading the fsm and it says approx .1 kpa{1.0 kg/cm^2} @ idle

read a thread on other peoples pressures and they seem alot higher. i guess it also depends on the oil you use, but isnt .1kpa really low?

before i thought it shouldd be 100kpa (thats what my apexi gauge used to show. but after my rebuild its running lower then that.

so seeing if the fsm is right or way off.

anyone?

[Carl H]

mine is around 1.3bar at idle with 10w40 oil.n1 pump and 650rpm idle.

[krayton]

ouch. so below 1bar is gonna be bad huh?

i was running around 1 bar, turbo blew, and now my oil pressure is below 1 bar

edit: after putting a new turbo on

[Darius]

That is pretty low. The lowest my RB25 gets is 20 psi when it is hot outside and at 750 rpm idle.

[Joe]

[gawdzilla]

definitely look into it. you sure the gauge is still good? i've had an autometer go bad on me before.

for reference when i ran the stock oil pump it would definitely idle around 20 psi or below, 800 rpm. 10w30

when i put the n1 in it idles closer to 25 psi with a slightly higher idle (950 ish), 10w30, operating temp. i also put in a longacre oil pressure warning light to replace the factory dummy light that triggers at 20 psi. i have seen the light flickering when my oil temps were VERY hot (240F or so) running on 10w30 with the n1... meaning my oil temps at idle then were hovering just around 20. i run thicker oil at the track now with a cooler so that hasn't happened in a while

[WhatsADSM]

FWIW I get about 20psi even a little lower (18 or so) once I get to full temp.

10w-40 ~800rpm idle n1 pump.

[krayton]

ouch. not looking good.

ill have to look into it. first is gonna be a gauge then. make sure this apexi one is right.

next is ripping the pan off and oil pump.

oil came out ok and comp test good.

so not sure. can only lean to spun bearing i guess

[eh?]

ouch. not looking good.

ill have to look into it. first is gonna be a gauge then. make sure this apexi one is right.

next is ripping the pan off and oil pump.

oil came out ok and comp test good.

so not sure. can only lean to spun bearing i guess

Don't you have a built engine? If so you probably have looser clearances no? You'd probably want to talk to your engine builder or machine shop and ask how much lower the loose clearances would cause a drop vs stock. Personally I wouldn't be concerned until I hear abnormal noises or bearing material in the oil. I run about 15ish psi at idle with a 100% stock engine. If I remember correctly my built engine with stock pump, no restrictors and stock bearing clearances had about the same.

[l0nestar]

Krayton,

Definately talk to your builder (if you have one).

Stock 25, N1 oil pump, Mobile 1 10w-30, engine up to temperature, 800 idle, ~ 1.4 bar / 140 kPa.

I'm using Defi BF-Amber gauge / sender & TunerToys adapter.

[krayton]

Yeah i put together this engine. So talking to myself gets a little wierd.

My first build the builder put it together leaving no clearances on the main and trashing that engine.

As for clearances, all of them were within spec. the mains were a little loose, but all within the fsms spec.

rods were right on minus 2 of them. 1 was a little loose and one a little tight. But again, they were both within spec. The few that were slightly off, I used a micrometer and telescoping gauge to get it on the dot.

Again im not sure. Im looking at possibly the bolts on the oil pump backing out?

I installed a mech gauge and was reading 10psi when the oil warmed up. If it was a bit higher I might just try running it. Also the problem was that before the turbo blew, I was running 1 bar at idle. All these things just happened at the same time. Blown turbo, low oil pressure.

But other then the low oil pressure, the car sounds perfect. No odd noises at all.

[gawdzilla]

no leaks near the crank pulley i assume? i have heard that when the bolts back out of the oil pump, the way to tell is the area around the front seal begins to leak. that could just be an internets rumor though. never seen it first hand

if all of your oil clearances are in factory spec, your oil pressure should also be. did anything weird happen when you were installing your new turbo? stock turbo with no restrictors or anything?

could your blown turbo be a result of low oil pressure?

[krayton]

we orginally thought it was just a blown turbo. (well it was) and the low oil pressure pulling into the pits was because of the oil getting shot into the turbo.

got it home, put a new turbo on, no leaks, no smoke. but low oil pressure now. no leaks anywhere on the engine. oil change came out ok.

unless something is in the oil but didnt make it out of the drain, but im not sure

i didnt know that if the oil pump bolts backed out that it would leak out the front cover. its not showing any leaking from there.

[Carl H]

i doubt you'd see leakage from the front seal if the backing plate bolts loosened mainly from how the pump is assembled...i took note of several people saying that the backing plate should be retightened before installation (n1 pump) as they can work loose at high rpm.when i fitted my pump i took it apart to pack the pump with assembly lube and cleaned the threads with acetone to remove all oil then proceded to redlocktite the backing cover bolts back into place.

[SullivanRacing06]

30-40psi idle at 1000 with a jun pump

[eh?]

Ugh 10 psi is to low for my liking, thought it was around 14ish. Stock pump, N1? any restrictors?

[krayton]

n1, 1 tomei restrictor. but didnt block the other one

yeah, 10psi is to low for me too. out comes the pan and pump. half tempted to take the engine out. last time i did this it was a royal pain in the ***. (my expanded pan blocks alot of bolts)

[mattblancarte]

Good call. I wouldn't even start the motor if I sensed I was having issues with the oiling system.

Is it possible to remove the oil pump without pulling the motor? I have to remove my steering rack if I even want to take off the pan... which of course always means a realignment. Doh!

[gawdzilla]

Good call. I wouldn't even start the motor if I sensed I was having issues with the oiling system.

Is it possible to remove the oil pump without pulling the motor? I have to remove my steering rack if I even want to take off the pan... which of course always means a realignment. Doh!

it's possible.. need to remove the pan (or at least drop the front of it.. but then it won't seal back up again) and take apart the entire front. i dropped the subframe a bit to get the pan out.

[krayton]

sadly this is the second time ive dropped my pan. so it shouldnt be a problem.

i dont know if i trust that mech gauge too much. i put it on there to make sure my electric gauge worked. and that was seeing like 12psi.

but regardless, well see whats in the pan and the pump