front suspension noise 1999 q45t

[JRJ]

My 99 q45t with 157K miles just began to give a distinct single klunk or a series of two to three klunk-klunk-klunks that sounds like it is coming from the front end suspension on the drivers side. This occurs intermittently with shifting into gear and starting motion, or on firm and hard braking, but more commonly occurs when cornering into a driveway apron ramp. Ride and steering are not affected, no change from standard to sport shock setting. Is this front ball joint wear? From looking at the FSM and parts supply websites the ball joints are replaced as part of the control arm assembly only. What is the level of difficulty on this as a diy, and what other subframe, suspension components, sway bar bushings, etc. should be evaluated and replaced at the same time. Or is this a symptom of the shock-struts giving out. Thanks.

[maxnix]

Please read the sticky at the head of this forum.

We need a recitation of preformed maintenance to help you.

Tension rod bushings would be most suspect.
Modified by maxnix at 6:23 PM 4/13/2009

[bullittandy]

Almost certainly the tension rod which connects the control arm to the frame. However, at 157K you might do well to replace everything if you've got the dough, struts, mounts, tension rods and sway bar links.

good luck!

[JRJ]

I apologize in advance for not giving enough information in my initial post. FYI I did review the forum posting info and searched both the archives and my FSM. I did not think these facts needed to be expressed for the sake of space.WRT the car is bone stock and all maintenance from purchase was done at the dealer with receipts and service printouts. All suspension is original to the best of my inspection and knowledge. I have owed the car for the last year and a half with diy care for all fluids and filters, brake pads and belts, throttle body cleaning, new tires and a/c compressor. I hope this additional information is useful to the topic and question posed. I do not want to rejuvunate the entire suspension, but want to identify the likely cause and repair if within my abilities.

[maxnix]

So no suspension work performed at all?

[JRJ]

Yes from my records I received with purchase there was no suspension work done other than wheel allignment with new tire purchase. I have not done any suspension work to date. So to the best of my knowledge the car is all original. Is this unusual for a Q45? I have owned other cars that required no suspension repairs their entire lifespan unless wrecked or curb-pothole damaged. From the condition at purchase I believe this car was gently driven and properly maintained. It drives and runs out beautifully and has none of the skipping hesitation, stumbles I read about in the postings and still delivers 20 mpg in mixed driving. I will reinspect suspension and probable start with the torsion rods if the bushings look collapsed or have leaked out.

[goody90q45]

Almost certainly the tension rod which connects the control arm to the frame. However, at 157K you might do well to replace everything if you've got the dough, struts, mounts, tension rods and sway bar links.good luck!

JRJ- We're all in awe that you could go 157k miles without any work to the suspension. In the end everything Andy mentioned above will need replacing and it's not going to be cheap. You're going to enjoy the new ride once it's all complete.

I'm thinking the bump, bump you're feeling is from worn out shocks and you're riding mostly on springs. There's a rubber "bump stop" bushing on the strut shaft and a rubber spring pad on top that could both be worn out. See page FA-15 in your FSM.

For the most part suspension work is righty-tighty, lefty-loosey but you may need an alignment when you're done. Every instruction and part you will need can be easily found by searching and reading. Print up the best threads and take them with you when you decide to wrench on your Q. Also, take a look at the numbers from the last alignment. If any are on the edge of the acceptable range it will help tell which component is wearing out. Good luck.

[oldmako]

An easy thing to check is the top strut mounts. Simply open the hood and have a fat guy push down on the car repeatedly while you watch the top of the struts. They should not flop around in their mounts. If you see excessive movement, there's your problem. While driving it will clunk. Don't ask me how I know this.

Of course this is just one possibility. You may have other issues.

My car has 150K and has had the struts, mounts, and tension rods replaced along with the associated rubber. I wish now that I had replaced more of the wear (rubber) components in the front end at the same time. Eventually I will get around to replacing the wheel bearings, and at that time I am going to try to replace anything else rubber that I can while it's blown up. Do any of you smart guys have any experience with DIY rubber replacement in this vintage Q?

Specifically I am looking for stuff that can be done using a normal jack and hand tools. Any bit(s) suggestion appreciated.

[JRJ]

I appreciate the input and advice. It may be that the normal wear cycle of the suspension is around 150K and multiple components may soon fail singly or in bunches. I will try the bounce test a soon as I round up a "fat guy" and try to get under the car and check on the items mentioned.

[JRJ]

Did the fat guy bounce test with no wobble of the top of the strut mounts. On full inspection of all the suspension parts I do believe all are original and have the white and blue dots from factory assemby. The tension rod bushings show no cracks or leakage or collapse. The front sway bar bushings look good with no cracks or crumbling. The sway bar end links to the struts are tight and the rubber boots show no leakage or cracks. The lower suspension arm bushings look good and the ball joint boot looks good. The outer tie rods also look good with no looseness or boot leaks or breakdown. The Strut towers look good with no oil leakage. The only finding was the rubber boot (bump stop)under the coil spring on both struts was cracked in multiple places and collapsed at the pleats. What next? Any experiences on R & R of this strut.

[paranoidjack]

The tension rod bushings show no cracks or leakage or collapse.

I did my full suspension overhaul, but torqued the tension rod bushing bolts before the car was under load. I believe this led to a premature death (about 18-20k), and I would suggest you take another look for one reason - the word you used, "klunk." That is a pretty good sign of a tension rod bushing on its way out, and I now have what I deem to be the exact same sound.

[fixer]

retorque all the subframe mounting bolts and ck the motor mount for looes nuts or collapsed rubber. If you are getting a noise on engine torque or braking I would also inspect the tension rods very carefully, maybe just to retighten those mounting bolts as well.

[maxnix]

Any experiences on R & R of this strut.

You can replace the inserts on the front struts on the standards, but I am not sure about the t or ae models, but at least include the front strut bearings and all 4 gaiters. Sure those front tension rod bushings have fluid in them still? I would inspect the front strut mounts carefully also.

Look for a post by Paranoidjack on his t model strut replacement. Might be in the Q45 Forum.

[JRJ]

I appreciate all the input. Here's my plan. I will order new tension rod bushings and new bumperstop/dustboots for the front struts along with the strut bearings and upper mount bushings. The strut shafts look good with no leakage so I plan on taking the front end down and having a local shop press in the tension rod bearings and either getting a spring compressor and changing the strut parts out myself or farming that job out too if beyond my means. From the FSM there is a special claw puller for separating the tie rod end and ball joint. I hope I can find a comparable tool instead of using my pickle fork which may tear up the boots. Then get it back together and get an allignment. I'll try to photodocument the project so all can get a good look (or laugh)

[maxnix]

You don't have to separate the ball joint unless you are replacing it.