Yes in my case it’s only if there’s a one sided movement. I can go over speed bumps fast or slow and it almost never makes the noise. But the noise is isolated to driver side of vehicle.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Thu Nov 19, 2020 1:52 pmCheck the sway bar itself if you only replaced the bushings. The locator rings will often slip sideways a bit on an old bar, and it only takes about 1/8" of side-to-side slop to cause the bar to make noise. Btw, sway bar noise is easy to differentiate from anything else on an axle... if it makes noise only when one side is compressed (i.e., a bump that only one wheel hits) but not when both wheels are compressed (i.e., a speed bump), it's generally the sway bar or bushings at fault. The reason is simple, the bar is basically a torsion spring that winds up only when one wheel tries to lift without the other. The bar then provides counterforce to level the system. Over a speed bump both sides lift equally, so the bar does nothing.
Didn’t see that anywhere on the front sway bar at all. All I had was the bar with the end links and the brackets that hold the bushing and bar to the frame. Brackets had 4 bolts each.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Thu Nov 19, 2020 5:44 pmhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1zw49sK ... sp=sharing
See linked pic. They're press-fitted onto the sway bar, a pair of rings that sit outside (or on some cars inside) the bushings and prevent the bar from sliding side-to-side. Bars with fixed or very short links sometimes don't have them, but practically everything Nissan has to have them because of the swivel-end linkages. They're always pressed and not welded because welding would change the spring characteristics and weaken the bar, which would be bad because the bar is basically a giant torsion spring. Because they're pressed they can work loose and move, gradually allowing the bar too much side-to-side movement and causing noise whenever the position shifts.
Or it's a worn out ball joint.
I mean all these components were changed about a year ago. Didn’t go cheap in parts either I used quality ones. Just for the sake of it I looked at ball joints and they look completely fine. The noise was once ever so often a while after that. But recently it’s been more often. That’s when i decided to do bushings for sway bar this week. But no help.
That is very logical but linear in thought with a dynamic interlinked set of suspension components. I had precisely the same issue as described, coincidently, with the driver side ball joint on my Pathfinder. Axial load was not the issue with mine so it did not present itself with bumps and rough roads. Radial loads on the ball joints are extreme while turning. That is when I would here that "clunk" noise as the ball shifted, with force, temporarily out of axial alignment with it's seat by a millimeter or so. You may be correct, in that some other component is causing this issue, but the ball joint cannot ruled out. The only way I know of to test this is to use a pry bar at the ball joint, after jacking the wheel off the ground, and check for the slightest amount of movement. The ball joint should be rock solid in its seat when applying a load with the pry bar, both radially and axially.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Thu Nov 19, 2020 8:49 pmBall joint would clunk over 2-wheeled speed bumps, not just one side. Everything in the front end is basically side-neutral except the bar, links and strut lower. It's the only system that transmits force to the opposite side of the car.
Here are a couple of videos that should give you a good ide of what to do for checking the ball joints. The sway bar links are shown being checked as well. Those are also known culprits for making that "clunk" noise.
Nice job tracking down that gremlin. The CV joint was one of my three primary suspects but I was hoping for a less costly outcome to your work.