Front crash zone sensor is killing me

[NeedMoreCowbell]

2008 Rogue SL

A few weeks ago I got the dreaded 'blinking airbag light' .. I tried the trick to reset (turn accessory until solid airbag light turns off, turn off accessory, repeat 3 times) and that didn't work.

But that did give me the diagnostic code of "one long and six short blinks" which google told me was the front zone crash sensor.

So I ordered one off of ebay and received:



Wire's on the wrong side.

So I suppose that's on me, I ordered the wrong sensor somehow?

Connector was the same and the sensor looks identical so I gave it a shot. Fired it up and no change. Went through the 3x on/off routine again and again it's giving me one long blink and 6 short ones, indicating an issue w/the front CZS.

Can anyone tell me where I should go from me? Get a sensor that's exactly the same, or maybe replace the cable (mine looks pretty crimped a couple inches away from the connector. I'd hate to go to the dealer as they want a kidney just to look at it.

Thanks for any ideas!

[NeedMoreCowbell]

haaalp

[darylzero]

what part # did you get?

[darylzero]

Looks like there are two different senors; it depends on when your Rogue was manufactured. You will need to look at the inside of the drivers side door to see the manufacture date.

You didn't specify if it's AWD or FWD.

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-l ... =4WD;5=SL)


1: 98581-CD000
Production Date: 08/2007-06/2008 $132

2: 98581-CD00A
Production Date: 06/2008-08/2009 $250
Replaced by: K8581-CD00A

[NMD]

Wouldn't manufacturing date of 06/2008 belong to the 2009 model year?

[amc49]

While I often use parts not exact for the job by reworking them to fit I wouldn't do it there. Crash sensors are usually orientation and location fitted and any wandering from the exact spec used there can make the sensor not work, they have to be placed just so to work. Even more so if it is the magnet/ball type inside which many are.

If no change then the wiring may be errant, it often is that rather than the sensor itself. Depending on the type the unit may need a good ground as well through the outer case.

[Rogue Jarhead]

Even though it’s physically the wrong part it might still work, however your airbag light needs to be shut off with the appropriate tool. Air bag lights don’t go out on their own. Also as long as you need a proper tool to shut the light out you may as well find the correct tool to read the code too, there may be other codes involved.

Do you have a friend that works at a garage? A good friend of mine works for the gas company but his job is to maintain their vehicles, he has access to a wealth of tools that I have borrowed occasionally.

There are several dealers that have an online presence, they will sell you parts, I have no idea what you paid for that part on eBay but you might be able to do as well or close at an online dealers parts center.

[NeedMoreCowbell]

Thanks for the responses - agree about using the right part for the job, I was just hoping to validate it was the sensor. I suppose until I get the correct part I'm still unsure if it's the sensor or some other issue.

Re: reading the code, do you mean via obd reader? I actually tried to use one yesterday and although it detected all sorts of neat things like RPMs, temps, etc. I was not able to see any kind of fault codes. Are the SRS codes read in some different way?

I will be bringing the car to a shop tomorrow as I have a vibrating heat shield so I can have them try to read the code if possible. Thanks!

[Rogue Jarhead]

An obd code reader generally only reads the emission codes. SRS, ABS, the transmission and other manufacturer specific modules are not accessible to a generic obd reader. In fact in some cases a transmission code can cause your CEL to come on and a generic reader says there are no codes even though your engine light is clearly lit.

If you had the correct code reader it will tell you exactly what system, or module or in some cases part has failed.

[darylzero]

Thanks for the responses - agree about using the right part for the job, I was just hoping to validate it was the sensor. I suppose until I get the correct part I'm still unsure if it's the sensor or some other issue.

Re: reading the code, do you mean via obd reader? I actually tried to use one yesterday and although it detected all sorts of neat things like RPMs, temps, etc. I was not able to see any kind of fault codes. Are the SRS codes read in some different way?

I will be bringing the car to a shop tomorrow as I have a vibrating heat shield so I can have them try to read the code if possible. Thanks!

There is a TSB about the vibrating heat shield. The fix is a 50 cent clamp.