Front Brake Solenoid/Valvebody issues

Forum for Infiniti M35 and M45, and Nissan Fuga owners.
tja623
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:45 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti M35x

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Well I got the dreaded P1757/P1759 DTC. What a disaster!First off, I own a 2006 M35x with 135,000 miles on it. I am an automotive technician, but I work at an indy shop that specializes in European imports, so my experience with the Infiniti brand is limited. Anyway, I am on the way to work and all of a sudden acceleration is weak, check engine light comes on and I feel like the vehicle is in limp mode. I get it in to the shop and start pulling codes and running diagnostics. It seems to point to the front brake solenoid. Of course , to my dismay, single solenoids are not available, they only come FREE with a new valvebody! Lovely, Infiniti of Annapolis charged me $1180 with a $200 core charge.
So i get the pan dropped, swap out the valvebody, fill it up with new fluid, and take it for a spin. Now the tranny is WORSE!!! And I'm getting upset. So I call Infiniti and ask them if the TCM in the valvebody needed to be programmed. Their response,"Oh yes, bring it in, all of the modules must be updated and programmed", Cost $135. So I drop it off, only to get a call later saying the tech has to make sure I installed it correctly before he wastes any time on programming the TCM. I went back and forth with the idiot and finally gave in and said to go ahead and check. 20 minutes later I get the call, Yes the valvebody is installed properly, BUT I need a new transmission! Needless to say I disagreed and said I will be there in ten minutes. I show up and the tech brings me back, and asks me if the shop rags we use at my shop are RED. I respond "YES?"... "WHY?"...he says " oh you can use those rags to wipe off the pan and tranny where the gasket will be placed because it ruins the transmission." He says,"We call it RED DEATH!" I call it "BS!"Then he went on to say that there was some metallic flakes in the bottom of the pan, and that further supported his diagnosis. I responded with" that is impossible, the flakes are not stuck to the magnets, therefor it is aluminum and likely came from the case. Internal tranny parts are steel and clutch material and it would stick to the magnets if something internal had worn excessively." The dumbfounded look on his face told me that he didn't know what I was talking about, so I tell him to button it up and return my car immediately. :mad: In doing so, I find out the valvebody TCM does NOT need to be programmed at all, it is a plug & play item. So why was it there in the first place? Because the idiot on the phone really was clueless! Another reason I hate dealerships, they always have a service writer who doesn't know anything about the vehicles.Talk about frustrating!
Now I'm still stuck with a car that has a wacky tranny. I try and do as much research as possible, but everything points to the valvebody. I even went as far as just swapping the bad solenoid out to see if that would work, but nothing came of it. I checked continuity/resistance on all the solenoids, both new and old, and the all matched. That fact stuck in my mind , like maybe the solenoid actually isn't bad, maybe its the TCM or ECU? At this point Infiniti won't return a used valvebody, but they would warranty the valvebody. So I figured I would do that and at least I would have a new valvebody to sell on eBay and get most of my money back . So I park my ride, post the new valvebody on eBay, and wait.
About 3 weeks go by and the lead tech at work says to let him take a look at it. Of course, he comes up with the same diagnosis I came up with, it needs a valvebody or computer. So, reluctantly I open the warranteed valvebody, installed it, and VOILA! The tranny worked perfectly! Turns out I got a bad valvebody in the first place! It either had a bad computer(which is very likely) or somebody swapped out a used valvebody and returned it as new. Or maybe it got dropped, I don't know for sure. But I do know I didn't need a new transmission. I've put about a thousand miles on it since and haven't had any issues.
In closing, I do think the TCM's go bad in these valvebodies, and they throw false codes. If anybody needs some solenoids, just hit me. I still have the old solenoids as I returned the core without them. Just a little thank you for all of Infiniti of Annapolis' help! HA HA HA! :naughty:


MY06M45S
Posts: 59
Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2014 10:06 pm
Car: 06 M45S
Location: SEA

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Thanks for posting this! I'm always leery going to stealerships for them to look at ANY of my vehicles, lots of them try to get max money out of you, but when they see that you know what you're talking about they have nowhere to go.

tja623
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:45 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti M35x

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Yes, the almighty dealerships are a disaster. But in defense of my colleagues and fellow techs who are employed by the Stealer, I do realize they are run bass ackwards. The techs get paid much less to to warranty/service contract work, than they do to do a regular job. For example, on my car, a 2006 M35x, replacing the front brake pads pays 1 hour. At the dealer, however, if this job is done under warranty, it only pays the tech 0.4 hours. The rear brake pads normally pay 1 hour as well, but under warranty it only pays 0.7 hours. Why??? And why do they pay different? The thing is, it still takes the same amount of time and effort to do the job regardless if it is under warranty or not! So I believe the techs are forced to try and sell other work just to make a paycheck. I also believe they are taught to just replace everything, which is a luxury I don't have because I work at an Indy shop and don't have a warehouse with millions of dollars in spare parts at my disposal. Some of these Stealers are literally teaching these techs to do what they do...STEAL!
So my point is, always do your research and due diligence, and trust your instincts.
As far as the valvebody issues, I strongly suggest testing your solenoids and make sure to condemn the proper component, as I believe the Transmission Control Module(TCM) fails more often than not on these valvebodies. Just hook up a decent scan tool and check ALL your live data and compare it to normal specifications. Information is everywhere these days, and I must admit, the article by Lance Wiggins on these Jatco RE5R05A valvebodies is extremely helpful. I believe there is a link on one of the other P1757/P1759 threads.
Good Luck!

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paranoidjack
Posts: 1417
Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2005 3:57 pm
Car: 2012 M56s
2003 M45
2001 QX4
2000 Q45
1998 Pathy
1996 J30

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Great post. It is these great posts that make these forums worthwhile. I hope that a mod can see and sticky this, because it sounds like an issue that others might end up forking out big money to a dealer to fix. Thank you for fixing it and taking the time to document your success here to help the rest of us!

candymanfb
Posts: 123
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 5:15 pm
Car: 2004 M45 - Every possible option on an M!

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Still have those solenoids? - I'm having the same problem (p1759)

fat3oy
Posts: 305
Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 1:09 am
Car: 07 M35X, 06 350z, 06 RSX, 99 Dajiban
Location: Charlotte, NC

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RED DEATH ROFL!!!

what clowns...

Since my valvebody has been in and out more times than I care to mention, everything you've said/did is perfect... The plug and play system can be "programmed" more like learned, but it is a physical process, and the techs at inf know just enough to dig a hole.

Did you happen to note the dates printed on the solenoids???? They are nearly always matched to VIN year... I've gotten "new" valve bodies (and solenoids, you can buy them individually - yay Japan) with miss-matching years; a 2007 VB with 2004 solenoids.... basically the Z boys and their 505's have gotten around to avoiding dealership rape, and swap out parts as they see fit then return the body (lower rent tranny shops are notorious for this) as a redistributor will just be able to return it to nissan for resale.

If ya get a new one, always check solenoid years, valve springs, balls, etc... WASH it with brake clean and check for tranny fluid etc... I suspect OP your tranny had a slightly bent shift arm thingy (looks like a drum stick) or a spring or two was removed (or not installed by the factory.)

ALSO DONT USE RED RAGS - THEY HAVE VOODOO ANTI-TRANNY FIBERS - USE BLUE RAGS..... :wtf2:

Last, since you are a tech - did All-Data not have the relearn procedure? short of shift every link at temp? Look up the same procedure for any ATTESSA system... I'm not at the shop so can't point ya there.

tja623
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:45 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti M35x

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I did not note the dates, how ever that "Z boy" scenario sounds like a possibility. Whatever the case, it has been another couple months and the tranny is running and functioning just fine. I'm just now beginning to get over the whole disaster:) I do still have the old solenoids in case anybody is interested. They seem to be intact, and do have continuity. I still believe my problem was in the TCM any way. Thanks for all the great responses.

tja623
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:45 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti M35x

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candymanfb wrote:Still have those solenoids? - I'm having the same problem (p1759)
i do still have all the solenoids, they all have continuity and should be fine. My problem was with the TCM portion of the valvebody. Before you decide to buy them, just make sure your diagnosis truly points toward the solenoid . A faulty TCM can throw misleading codes.
As far as price, make an offer. I think they were selling for about $80 new,(when they were available). I don't believe you can find them for sale any longer.
fell free to call or text four one zero, nine eight zero, seven seven one, eight
Did not want to do that in such a shady fashion, but for some reason the site won't let me private message you back .

tja623
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:45 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti M35x

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fat3oy wrote:RED DEATH ROFL!!!

what clowns...

Since my valvebody has been in and out more times than I care to mention, everything you've said/did is perfect... The plug and play system can be "programmed" more like learned, but it is a physical process, and the techs at inf know just enough to dig a hole.

Did you happen to note the dates printed on the solenoids???? They are nearly always matched to VIN year... I've gotten "new" valve bodies (and solenoids, you can buy them individually - yay Japan) with miss-matching years; a 2007 VB with 2004 solenoids.... basically the Z boys and their 505's have gotten around to avoiding dealership rape, and swap out parts as they see fit then return the body (lower rent tranny shops are notorious for this) as a redistributor will just be able to return it to nissan for resale.

If ya get a new one, always check solenoid years, valve springs, balls, etc... WASH it with brake clean and check for tranny fluid etc... I suspect OP your tranny had a slightly bent shift arm thingy (looks like a drum stick) or a spring or two was removed (or not installed by the factory.)

ALSO DONT USE RED RAGS - THEY HAVE VOODOO ANTI-TRANNY FIBERS - USE BLUE RAGS..... :wtf2:

Last, since you are a tech - did All-Data not have the relearn procedure? short of shift every link at temp? Look up the same procedure for any ATTESSA system... I'm not at the shop so can't point ya there.
nice ride, super engine!!!

mikewhines
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Aug 14, 2015 9:47 pm
Car: M35

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Is the valve body within the transmission? I am having the same problem, however I am being told that it may be less expensive to replace the transmission with a used one.

tja623
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:45 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti M35x

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Yes the valve body is located in the transmission, but is easily accessed by removing the atf pan. As soon as you remove the pan it is right there.
If there is no way it is cheaper to replace your transmission with a used transmission. AND what problems will you inherit with the used tranny? If yours is otherwise ok, the valvebody will do just fine.

djcandle
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2015 7:44 am
Car: Infiniti G35

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Hey my man, do you still have the Solenoids available? I've been hit with this P1759 after hydroplaning in the rain the other day.

tja623
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:45 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti M35x

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I do have all the solenoids, all tested and they seem to be fine. Check your private message, I gave you my number. Or you can call my shop, It is TriTec Automotive in Annapolis, Maryland...were are easy to find via Google. I'm there 8am to 5pm Mon-Fri. I'll be happy to talk to you to make sure these will help.

tja623
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:45 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti M35x

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Hey mikewhines, the valve body is inside the transmission. It is not cheaper to get a used transmission, nor is it wise unless you have a ridiculous amount of miles or other transmission problems. The valvebody is not very complicated to replace, its right on the bottom and is exposed as soon as you drop the tranny fluid pan. Also, the valvebody should be bought new with the updated solenoids. There are numerous articles online regarding this transmission...do your homework before making a decision.

Bam671
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon May 02, 2016 11:52 pm
Car: 2008 Nissan Xterra 4.0 V6

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Reading all your posts and comments helps out. Thanks. If y'all could me out please.
Last edited by Bam671 on Tue May 03, 2016 1:29 am, edited 1 time in total.

Bam671
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon May 02, 2016 11:52 pm
Car: 2008 Nissan Xterra 4.0 V6

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Whats up everyone. So here's my story. I dropped off my son to his friends house. i put it in reverse and it shifted it was rough. You could feel the kick going into gear and it was pretty loud too. After I reversed I put in drive and same thing rough kick and thump into gear. Then about maybe 3 miles down the road, stop sign. When I was taking off from the stop sign, there was a delay. It seemed as if I was in neutral holding in the gas pedal. Then it started to move really slow at about 2300-2400 rpm. It took its time to get to 2nd gear. But when it did it was fine after. So this morning i check my fluids everything is fine. I get in and start it up. Service engine soon light is still on. I try to take off and still delay on first. So I put into reverse and now no reverse. Im like wtf...So back into drive still delay. Up the street and back. I put into reverse I feel it engage into gear and so I reverse. Now I'm just like oh Lord please don't let it be my trans. So I head to auto zone to get codes. Now when I took off then it was normal. No delay no problem. But then it was stuck on 1st gear. Again, I was like wtf. So i stopped tried again same thing. So i turned around cause i wasn't going to drive 5 miles on 1st gear. So i get to my driveway, im going to reverse in and again no reverse. So i go down the street to turn around and there's the delay on 1st gear again. So i stop to test it on reverse. It gets into gear and works great again. So now I try to make it to get some codes. Other than the delay take of on 1st gear the drive was great. So my 2008 4.0 xterra was diagnosed with P1759 (A/T FR/B Solenoid valve performance). Ive read up on a few different sites. And it seems that its not necessarily the solenoid. So my question is. Where should I start to work my way from to figure out the problem? All suggestions and advice is greatly appreciated. I cant afford to take it to a shop at the moment. But I also can't have it at a stand still. My wife will be giving birth in about 2 months. Sons about to graduate from high school. Lost my f/t job. Thank you

tja623
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:45 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti M35x

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It is the beginning of the solenoid/computer side of the tranny valve body...don't be mislead into purchasing a new tranny from the DEALER. You know the shifting mechanism of the tranny functions properly, as it shifts, the problem lies between the control unit ( which is telling the tranny to shift), and the mechanism(Front brake solenoid)which allows trans fluid to pass a certain way through the valve body to actuate the shift.

Garcia_sal21
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2016 6:40 pm
Car: G35

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Do you still have some front brake solenoids ?? I'm having the same problem

rstylez
Posts: 29
Joined: Tue Oct 30, 2007 7:12 am
Car: 2007 Infiniti M45 Sport
Location: Bay Area , CA

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Where did you source the valve body part from. i just got the same problem on my M45

australianoz
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:26 am
Car: Pathfinder R51M '05, 2.5 diesel

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Hey bam71, did you eventually get the tranny fixed? I had the same problem. A common and often unchecked and dismissed but easy to fix issue is the TCM to solenoid command plate that has a cracked trace. It can be found in the plastic casing on top of the valve body. You need to remove the valve body, turn it over, remove the solenoids, separate the box from the valve body and split the box open (clipped). Find the cracked track, solder the track with non-leaded solder (Tin+Silver from you local plumbing store). check this vid, explains it all, and no reprogram required. worked a treat for me. And yes i made 2 trips to Nissan and got D17 errors bla bla bla... replace gearbox etc... same old no good stealership verbatim https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAveITC ... e=youtu.be.

Om35
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2018 11:10 pm

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Tja623

Are you in maryland I am having the same issue and was thinking about repairing the tcm but I wanted to try and replace the solenoid first. Do you still have them for sale and also are you able to provide any direction on if i should replace the valve body itself

ae7456t
Posts: 93
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 1:16 pm
Car: 2006 M35X with 19X,XXX miles

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It must be something about this time of year, but I just experienced the P1757 fault, as well...I was driving home from work, and tried to accelerate from a stop sign, and everything felt sluggish (4th gear fail safe) and got the P1757 Check Engine Light.

Fortunately, my trip home is mostly highway, so 4th gear as the only option was not too challenging...And when I shut down/restarted the car, it would go back to 1st/2nd gear for a bit (until I got into 3rd/4th gear), so I could get through lights/up hills close to home.

I must have watched the YouTube video that @Australianoz linked above about 100 times, working up the confidence to dig into the Valve Body/TCM...I was actually relieved when I got to the TCM and found the cracked trace that has been widely publicized as the cause of the P1757 CEL. A quick solder of that connection, install is the reverse of removal, and back in business.

Overall, not the worst repair...Just a little awkward on your back, under the car on jack stands...Messy, for sure (I have seen enough ATF fluid for a long while), but, overall, a good experience and a better result.

ae7456t
Posts: 93
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 1:16 pm
Car: 2006 M35X with 19X,XXX miles

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And...I just learned a valuable lesson...I am lousy at soldering!

Car drove great for 10 days...Back into limp mode on the 11th. Same P1757 code. Same crack in the trace that I just soldered.

I had read of someone having the same problem (theirs lasted 3 months on the first try). The solution appears to be to solder a small piece wire across the break to reinforce they whole area...Fingers crosses that does the trick for longer than 10 days!

macgiver
Posts: 1612
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:21 am

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mac , that's great man that you got the skill/ ball bearings to attempt that sort of thing , I try togo that route and a TIP is : If the trace necessitating a "small piece of wire" , is VERY tight & difficult - that it failed SOON - Try to solder between two components "Leads" that protrude the "board" - which are the SAME "Electrically" as the difficult jumper makes .Using short piece of SOLID,insulated, wire.For Leads protruding are on a bigger area of copper "foil" ( called "Land" ) :yesnod

ae7456t
Posts: 93
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 1:16 pm
Car: 2006 M35X with 19X,XXX miles

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Thanks, @macgiver...So far, so good on the second iteration of the repair.

The solder job is a little different than a typical trace on an electrical board...The broken part is actually right at the 90 degree bend for one of the "fingers" that plugs into the solenoid. Apparently that 90 degree bend is subjected to more vibration/force than the others, so has a tendency to break after many miles, and after 200 miles if you do a shoddy solder job.

The wire (I hope) will add some more support at the bend, but time will tell...

alskie
Posts: 33
Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2018 1:09 am
Car: 2008 M35x
Location: Belleville, New Jersey

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I have a 2008 M35x with the same issue. Can I bring my car to you for repairs? The dealerships are rip-offs.

ae7456t
Posts: 93
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 1:16 pm
Car: 2006 M35X with 19X,XXX miles

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I’m here to help...but my inflated self worth may make the dealerships look like a bargain.

In all seriousness, if you are in the greater Philadelphia are, I can see what I can do.

ryanbabs
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Apr 21, 2019 11:51 am
Car: 2007 Infiniti G35

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I had the dreaded P1757 code a few weeks back. I tried to reset it, but it always comes back and goes into the 4th gear limp mode after a while. After much research, I assumed that I had the infamous broken circuit bus that could be fixed by re-soldering it. After I took everything apart, there is no broken piece on the board and I checked it over with a multimeter and did not find any glaring issues. I did, however, find that the Front Brake solenoid itself had a reading of 24.9 ohms, whereas the other solenoids read 6.4 ohms, except for the low coast brake solenoid, which read 27 ohms and seems to be normal. I did a lot of research and it seems the Front Brake solenoid should be at 6.4 ohms, it seems a faulty solenoid would result in a much higher reading than 24.9 ohms?

I have been debating buying only a new solenoid, but I'm afraid I'll put all of this back together and still have an issue. I made a huge mess with the ATF even after putting all sorts of underlayment in my garage. Would it be better to replace the TCM or the entire valve body (and TCM) or is there a good chance the solenoid is the problem? It also seems that finding a direct match to my valve body will require a lot of research, aside going to the dealer and paying their ridiculous fees.

macgiver
Posts: 1612
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:21 am

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You can find a new solenoid and measure it's ohms at the store. Ohms is only half the diagnosis of a solenoid ,being electro-MECHANICAL , you ought to apply 12 volts through a FUSED JUMPER (like 5A fused),IF'n you have them loose as you stated "everything apart". You obviously are comparing the snapiness and force of all the relays - especially if you have no prior experience , like I've been there done that . You'll spot a weak one.
Your not holding the voltage but clicking for split second - for some may operate at slightly under 12 volts due to the circuit they're in . A healthy 9 volt battery or a wall adapter can be utilized as an alternative test.

luis_fx35
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2019 11:19 pm
Car: 2003 Infiniti Fx35 rwd

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tja623 wrote:
Mon Feb 09, 2015 3:39 pm
Well I got the dreaded P1757/P1759 DTC. What a disaster!First off, I own a 2006 M35x with 135,000 miles on it. I am an automotive technician, but I work at an indy shop that specializes in European imports, so my experience with the Infiniti brand is limited. Anyway, I am on the way to work and all of a sudden acceleration is weak, check engine light comes on and I feel like the vehicle is in limp mode. I get it in to the shop and start pulling codes and running diagnostics. It seems to point to the front brake solenoid. Of course , to my dismay, single solenoids are not available, they only come FREE with a new valvebody! Lovely, Infiniti of Annapolis charged me $1180 with a $200 core charge.
So i get the pan dropped, swap out the valvebody, fill it up with new fluid, and take it for a spin. Now the tranny is WORSE!!! And I'm getting upset. So I call Infiniti and ask them if the TCM in the valvebody needed to be programmed. Their response,"Oh yes, bring it in, all of the modules must be updated and programmed", Cost $135. So I drop it off, only to get a call later saying the tech has to make sure I installed it correctly before he wastes any time on programming the TCM. I went back and forth with the idiot and finally gave in and said to go ahead and check. 20 minutes later I get the call, Yes the valvebody is installed properly, BUT I need a new transmission! Needless to say I disagreed and said I will be there in ten minutes. I show up and the tech brings me back, and asks me if the shop rags we use at my shop are RED. I respond "YES?"... "WHY?"...he says " oh you can use those rags to wipe off the pan and tranny where the gasket will be placed because it ruins the transmission." He says,"We call it RED DEATH!" I call it "BS!"Then he went on to say that there was some metallic flakes in the bottom of the pan, and that further supported his diagnosis. I responded with" that is impossible, the flakes are not stuck to the magnets, therefor it is aluminum and likely came from the case. Internal tranny parts are steel and clutch material and it would stick to the magnets if something internal had worn excessively." The dumbfounded look on his face told me that he didn't know what I was talking about, so I tell him to button it up and return my car immediately. :mad: In doing so, I find out the valvebody TCM does NOT need to be programmed at all, it is a plug & play item. So why was it there in the first place? Because the idiot on the phone really was clueless! Another reason I hate dealerships, they always have a service writer who doesn't know anything about the vehicles.Talk about frustrating!
Now I'm still stuck with a car that has a wacky tranny. I try and do as much research as possible, but everything points to the valvebody. I even went as far as just swapping the bad solenoid out to see if that would work, but nothing came of it. I checked continuity/resistance on all the solenoids, both new and old, and the all matched. That fact stuck in my mind , like maybe the solenoid actually isn't bad, maybe its the TCM or ECU? At this point Infiniti won't return a used valvebody, but they would warranty the valvebody. So I figured I would do that and at least I would have a new valvebody to sell on eBay and get most of my money back . So I park my ride, post the new valvebody on eBay, and wait.
About 3 weeks go by and the lead tech at work says to let him take a look at it. Of course, he comes up with the same diagnosis I came up with, it needs a valvebody or computer. So, reluctantly I open the warranteed valvebody, installed it, and VOILA! The tranny worked perfectly! Turns out I got a bad valvebody in the first place! It either had a bad computer(which is very likely) or somebody swapped out a used valvebody and returned it as new. Or maybe it got dropped, I don't know for sure. But I do know I didn't need a new transmission. I've put about a thousand miles on it since and haven't had any issues.
In closing, I do think the TCM's go bad in these valvebodies, and they throw false codes. If anybody needs some solenoids, just hit me. I still have the old solenoids as I returned the core without them. Just a little thank you for all of Infiniti of Annapolis' help! HA HA HA! :naughty:

Hi, I’m a new member and I was looking for someone with the same problem that I have. I own a 2003 Infiniti fx35 RWD. My valve body and the selenoids are working properly, but my TCM which is attached to my valve body is not working because one of the circuits or “buses” is broken or open and is throwing false codes about a selenoid not working which is not the case. I got a little confused while reading your post when you purchased a new valve body from the dealership. When you swapped the old valve body with the new one, why was your transmission worse? Didn’t you find out the new valve body didn’t need programming at all? Why did you take the car to the dealership? Were you able to drive the car to the dealership after replacing the old valve body with the new one or you had to TOW it there? I want to buy a new valve body which comes with everything new in one piece (valve body, selenoids and the TCM) but I want to know if it would work even if it is not programmed. Finally, at the end of your post, you mentioned that you swapped the old valve body with the new one again and everything worked fine. So, why it didn’t work the first time you swapped the valve bodies? Did the dealership send you a defective valve body and then they send you another new valve body which is the one that ended up working? I’m very confused about that part.
Thanks for taking the time to read my message.


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