Front Brake Pads

[e2xx33]

Hey Guys,

I am in need of replacing my front brake pads, and I was wondering if anyone could give me some recommendations on replacement pads. Any luck with Wagner Thermoquiet or Duralast Gold Cmax?

Thanks

[miamiheat3332]

I put on EBC Slotted rotors and EBC pads about 2.5 years ago, and they are amazing, even wear and rotors are fine, compared to when i got Cross drilled brembo's which then warped on me, but thats because its a heavy suv and slotted is the best option

[fueler]

i have the thermoquiets on my brembo rotors, they are alright. Very quiet like the name implies, zero problems with brake fade.

I used to have Hawk HPS pads and i didnt see or feel a big enough difference to warrant the price tag (twice as much as the wagners - louder - AND they didnt last as long)

[GoldenR50]

hey i just picked up a set of Wagner Thermoquiet last week to replace front pads. Haven't installed them yet but heard great reviews. Quality-wise, looks as good if not better than OEM on the nissan, which the stealership wanted 130 for....i paid 48 canadian + tax for my thermoquiets (more expensive than the U.S. but it always is).

QC691 is the PN.

Gonna replace them on stock front rotors soon.

[CanuckQx4]

Where did you buy the thermoquiets in canada?? Do they make a performance rotor aswell?? Possibly something for the rear... as I think I need a complete brake job

Would love to know what company to call with that part number you posted though

[GoldenR50]

got em at partsource...they are 20% off normal price during June.

http://partsource.ca/

no idea about the rear rotors...but u can call and ask

[CanuckQx4]

hmmm they only seem to sell the shows for the rear and not the drum rotor itself....

And the thermoquiets are $61 online but I guess you said theres an instore sale

[GoldenR50]

yea they are 61 online but you can get a $10 in-store coupon when you sign up for the newsletter on the site that they email to you after you sign up. add in canadian tire money and theres $48.

[Empty V]

I'm all about EBC. My YellowStuff pads squeal upon the first couple of compressions but they're "performance" pads that respond better when warm.

[Buzzman]

Possibly something for the rear... as I think I need a complete brake job

no idea about the rear rotors...but u can call and ask

As nice as it would be, we don't have disc brakes on the back of our R50's. Only drums.
On the positive side, the rear drum brakes will last a lot longer than discs would.
I have over 220,000 kms on my 2002, and I still have my original rear brakes.
Still lots of life on the shoes, and no warping/pulsating.
The fronts have been replaced 3 times though, if memory serves.

[e2xx33]

I picked up a set of Wagner Thermoquiets and installed them yesterday night. I spent ~$50 on them at Advance Auto. I started the bedding process last night and so far so good...

[Chuck Tribolet]

Standard Nissan. Stops it just fine. Getting ready to do my third replacement at 180,000 miles.


Chuck

[CanuckQx4]

How crazy is it to overhaul the rears???

[GoldenR50]

put the wagner thermoquiet ceramics on yesterday. good results. amazingly quiet. we will see about brake dust but the feeling is definitely softer than genuine nissan pads. stops fine but seems soft, it doesn't have the initial bite on genuine pads. i'm happy with them. good purchase nonetheless as factory pads were ridiculously expensive.

[Chuck Tribolet]

How crazy is it to overhaul the rears???

Do they need it? My '01 is at 180,000 miles, and the originals were fine when I checked them 40,000ish miles ago. Time to check them again (the tell-tale on the
fronts started squeaking this week).

BTW, Nissan built a cool little jack screw into the rears. Put a couple right-sized metric bolts in, and start turning a half-turn alternately. The drums get
jacked right off. I've had drum-braked cars where pulling the drums was a real pain (most notably my '72 240Z). Along with the swing-up calipers on the
PF, Nissan's brake engineer gets an A+ for serviceability.


Chuck

[e2xx33]

Golden, After a couple of hundred miles the pads will be seated properly to the rotors. New pads/rotors have microscopic lands and grooves that do not match up perfectly when installed. Once you get the pads seated, IMO I believe these pads have better bite than OEM.

PS I just hit 253K miles and I am sill on the original rear shoes...

[GoldenR50]

so i've noticed a noise coming from the front left tire when the car is moving. its more like a creaking noise that speeds up as i accelerate. this has only occured after the front pads were changed to the thermoquiets. any ideas? the noise is extremely apparently when making left turns or simply turning the wheel to the left while driving and dissapears when turning right....im thinking something is rubbing....at around 40kmh it starts to sound like a train...chugga chugga chugga...

[lovedan73]

I would stick with the OE Akebono pads if you can find them. Worth the extra money. My original fronts lasted 95K, don't know of anything else on the market that can outlast that. Wagner Thermoquiets are good, but not as good as Akebono. Still have original shoes after 153K

[ARKQX33V6]

so i've noticed a noise coming from the front left tire when the car is moving. its more like a creaking noise that speeds up as i accelerate. this has only occured after the front pads were changed to the thermoquiets. any ideas? the noise is extremely apparently when making left turns or simply turning the wheel to the left while driving and dissapears when turning right....im thinking something is rubbing....at around 40kmh it starts to sound like a train...chugga chugga chugga...

---------
1-Check tire seat to rim
2-Verify torque setting rim to hub
3-Float section of caliper at flex rubber stays, open 2 small bolts, lubricate inside with rubber grease, caution do not over tighten, see manual for torque.
4-Verify the piston(s) operation is smooth and no leaks
5-Rub hands on tire tread 360 degrees and feel for tire wear, cupping, then inflate to max on tire side wall and check for squareness of tire tread to rim side looking for 90 degrees. If way off an alignment will help, lower tire pressure to normal
6-If no real evidence of problems, with car on even floor, tires corrected pressure, tires straight ahead unladen:
measure floor to wheel arch checking for car sitting height...check your book for height
measure with a tape measure between front of tires, right side to right side left to right wheel, center to center then left sides of wheel to left side. Does the wheel(s) track parallel to each other, are both front wheels going the exact same direction
7- grasp the front wheels while off the ground and try to move them top to bottom in/out and then side to side...there should be no movement if there is, lower ball joint, or tie rod end. If your not strong enough use a 5' pry bar under raised wheel and try to lift the car at the wheel, feel at the strut tower for movement or banging sounds, ignore the torsion spring rising and falling as you pry up the tire assembly.

Be patient and safe while doing these make notes of what you find and get back.