FRONT AND BACK BRAKES

Discussion of Infiniti's amazing (and underrated) sport-luxury crossovers, the EX35 and EX37. For 2014, the EX series will be renamed QX50, in line with Ininfiit's new naming conventions.
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IamDJDubz
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HEY EVERYONE I AM NEW TO THE FORUM, HOPE ALL IS WELL WITH EVERYONE

I HAD A QUESTION, I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 2008 BLACK INFINTI EX35 JAVA INTERIOR IN JUNE, JUNE 2ND 2012 TO BE EXACT, (PRECERTIFIED OWNED). WHEN I PURCHASED THE CAR IT HAD 29,063 MILES ON IT. FROM THEN TILL NOW THE MILEAGE READS 36,896. ON JANUARY 10TH MY VDC LIGHT WAS SHOWING OFF AND MY TRACTION LIGHT WAS ON. I TOOK THE CAR FOR SERVICE ON FRIDAY THE 13TH. I GOT AN OIL CHANGE AND OIL FILTER CHANGE, THEY CHECKED THE SENSOR AND THE SENSOR WAS TELLING THEM TO CHECK THE BRAKES. LONG STORY SHORT WHEN I PICKED UP THE CAR THE DEALER TOLD ME THAT MY FRONT AND BACK BRAKES ARE AT 15% AND I NEED NEW BRAKES ALL THE WAY AROUND AND THE COST OF THE BRAKES ARE $863.00 WHICH TO ME SEEMED EXTREMLY HIGH AND ODD BECAUSE I JUST RECENTLY PURCHASED THE CAR. I HAVENT CHANGED THE BRAKES AS OF YET BUT DOES THAT SEEM ODD TO ANY ONE ELSE BUT ME…


NOW IF THAT ISNT ODD AND I DO NEED NEW BRAKES ALL THE WAY AROUND I WOULD LOVE TO KNOW WHAT ARE SOME REALLY GOOD HIGH PERFORMANCE BRAKES AND DRILED SLOTTED ROTORS TO GET WITH COLOR CALIBERS.. SO I CAN ENHANCE THER PERFORMANCE AND LOOK OF MY CAR


mikey1951
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DJ: 1st-The last thing you want to do is let the stealership do your brakes. Eezy peezy job. Hawk or PBR ceramic pads and R1 concepts on ebay for drilled/slotted rotors. Paint the calipers yourself. Watch the wheel speed senors. Did a complete job on my wifes Murano a few years ago. Parts will run you ~ 300-400$$. Good luck!

TimGinCentralNJ
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Car: 2008 Infiniti EX Journey AWD

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mikey1951 wrote:DJ: 1st-The last thing you want to do is let the stealership do your brakes. Eezy peezy job. Hawk or PBR ceramic pads and R1 concepts on ebay for drilled/slotted rotors. Paint the calipers yourself. Watch the wheel speed senors. Did a complete job on my wifes Murano a few years ago. Parts will run you ~ 300-400$$. Good luck!
+1 on Mikey's recommendation of DIY; I did both fronts and rears (rotors and pads) this summer right when I bought my '08 for under $300 in parts and about 2 hours of my time--mostly because it was my first time doing brakes on this car. Love the R1Concept brake kit. Maybe do a search on my screen name and you should see the specifics of what I had ordered.

Hope that helps!
Tim G.

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IamDJDubz
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thank you both tim and mikey i will begin my ebay shopping now

after i search ya name tim… i appeciate all the help fellas

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zarar
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Purchased R1 Concept Brakes + Slotted Rotors, I changed them at 12,000 miles. currently at 24,000 miles and they are excellent. Quality product in my opinion and they wear well for a heavy braker like me.

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IamDJDubz
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any one know the difference between the drilled slotted rotors and the cross drilled and slotted rotors
this is all still new to me

what do you guys think about

G37 Akebono BBK and upgraded to the StopTech slotted/drilled rotors for the front, OEM rotors for the rear. and do you think i will need to ordered the Stoptech Stainless Steel Brake Lines.

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EX-KAT-35
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Car: EX35, V70R, Civic
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I'm of no help... I guess... :crazy: I only got my rear brakes converted to 355mm slotted.

Enjoy the teaser shots::: :rotfl

Image

Image

TimGinCentralNJ
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IamDJDubz wrote:any one know the difference between the drilled slotted rotors and the cross drilled and slotted rotors
this is all still new to me

what do you guys think about

G37 Akebono BBK and upgraded to the StopTech slotted/drilled rotors for the front, OEM rotors for the rear. and do you think i will need to ordered the Stoptech Stainless Steel Brake Lines.
I'm not 100% convinced there's a difference--except maybe in the pattern of the drilling. Personally, unless you're going for "bling" or you're tracking your EX, my feeling is drilled and slotted rotors is a little overkill. I went with the slotted rotors (only because the solids were out of stock) and ceramic pads from R1Concepts and so far (at 4k miles) am loving them...especially the fact they didn't cost me over $800 from the dealer, and will last me longer than 10-15k miles unlike the stock rotors/pads.

I realize you cannot turn a slotted or drilled rotor, but I've also never been a fan of resurfacing rotors. The idea of going through (or paying for) all the work to pull the pads/rotors, turn the rotors and reinstall just to bide myself another 8-10k miles doesn't seem worthwhile to me--at least not when a really good set of new aftermarket rotors runs < $150-$200

Hope this helps,
Tim

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EX-KAT-35
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My best memory from hanging around the guys is I think the slottted only would be less dusty than both slotted + cross-drilled and still provide better bite in the rain than a smooth rotor.

The extra material not drilled out will resist the rotor cracking like the cross-drilled rotors are known to do. :yesnod

TimGinCentralNJ
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EX-KAT-35 wrote:My best memory from hanging around the guys is I think the slottted only would be less dusty than both slotted + cross-drilled and still provide better bite in the rain than a smooth rotor.
Hmmm. I always understood brake dust to primarily be a function of the pads themselves--specifically the material they were made of (i.e., organic, asbestos, ceramic, etc) and how much grip they were designed for. For example, I know BMW has been known for many years as having some of the best brakes in the auto industry, but their OEM pads are horrifically dusty. Personally, I prefer the better grip they offer and don't mind washing my front rims off a little more often as the trade-off.
EX-KAT-35 wrote:The extra material not drilled out will resist the rotor cracking like the cross-drilled rotors are known to do. :yesnod
Just so I understand, is this kind of like saying that "a few dozen less holes drilled through the rotor will make it somewhat less prone to stress cracks"? ;) I've actually never heard of any cross drilled, etc rotors cracking unless they were like Brembo knock-offs from eBay. Again, I cannot imagine how hard one would have to drive in order to crack even a cheap rotor 'cause let's face it; these EX's (in most cases here on the board) ain't exactly track cars, right? :)

Cheers,
Tim

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EX-KAT-35
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^^^In denial ^^^
Such a condescending attitude and such a closed mind.
If u ever hung out at the track u would know what I was talking about.
Girls have eyes and brains too.
Did u even BOTHER to google a search and educate urself before attempting to misinform us on here???
U stand corrected and check mated. :bs:
Also if u EVER drove a car with same pads and any kind of slotted or cross-drilled rotor u would KNOW as a matter of fact that they are MORE dusty than plain rotors.
Image

Go here to the site I linked below with the "knockoff" as you call them Porsche OEM brakes cracking right at the cross-drills.

Not saying slotted rotors don't crack but its mainly all about looks on a street driven car + the added benefit in the rain.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/gt3- ... holes.html

TimGinCentralNJ
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EX-KAT-35 wrote:^^^In denial ^^^
Such a condescending attitude and such a closed mind.
If u ever hung out at the track u would know what I was talking about.
Girls have eyes and brains too.
Did u even BOTHER to google a search and educate urself before attempting to misinform us on here???
U stand corrected and check mated. :bs:
Also if u EVER drove a car with same pads and any kind of slotted or cross-drilled rotor u would KNOW as a matter of fact that they are MORE dusty than plain rotors.
Image

Go here to the site I linked below with the "knockoff" as you call them Porsche OEM brakes cracking right at the cross-drills.

Not saying slotted rotors don't crack but its mainly all about looks on a street driven car + the added benefit in the rain.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/gt3- ... holes.html

Whoa, skippy...step back from the ledge. What's with your attitude exactly? And I'm sorry, but I don't even know what your "girls" comment is supposed to mean. Please enlighten me; are you a girl and I somehow offended or invalidated you by offering a differing opinion? Actually, never mind...judging from how you behave on a public forum, I have a feeling it won't matter.

Since you are apparently "all-knowing", I have spend some time around the track with about a dozen others in my car club (guys/girls), and so far I've learned two things which I'd like to share with you:

1.) I have personally witnessed the "knock off Brembos" I'm referring to (made in China...no one said anything about OEM Porsche brakes) crack on a track car. And thus my comment about them.

2.) My friend has a supercharged '97 7-Series (built by VAC MotorSports near Philly) with Brembo GT brakes; cross-drilled rotors and ceramic pads. I've found they offer incredible grip when they're heated up, and absolutely no grip when they're not. So, unless you're shooting into a switchback at 80mph and they're nice and hot already, I personally found those particular brakes useless on the street, which, incidentally I think was the nature of question to which I posted.

Unless I missed some of his/her comments, I'm pretty sure the OP **wasn't** looking to auto-x their ride, which means your comments--although **possibly** correct--are totally out-of-context and probably not terribly helpful to anyone here in this post.

Like it, or don't like it...I'm sharing information and my opinion from MY particular experiences--just like I'm **assuming** you are doing the same. No need to flip out and name call, dude....honestly. If the idea of someone suggesting an opinion different from yours is enough to rile-you-all-up, you may wanna' reconsider posting on message boards because I'm pretty sure that's the point behind them.

Nice chatting with you....hope your day improves.

Tim

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EX-KAT-35
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Unless I missed some of his/her comments, I'm pretty sure the OP **wasn't** looking to auto-x their ride, which means your comments--although **possibly** correct--are totally out-of-context and probably not terribly helpful to anyone here in this post.

Like it, or don't like it...I'm sharing information and my opinion from MY particular experiences--just like I'm **assuming** you are doing the same. No need to flip out and name call, dude....honestly. If the idea of someone suggesting an opinion different from yours is enough to rile-you-all-up, you may wanna' reconsider posting on message boards because I'm pretty sure that's the point behind them.

Nice chatting with you....hope your day improves.

Tim
Why don't we let the OP kick in with what he wants instead of trying to LIMIT the information to him.
He asked about the properties/characterisics/benefits of slotted and/or cross-drilled rotors.
I quote:
any one know the difference between the drilled slotted rotors and the cross drilled and slotted rotors
this is all still new to me

what do you guys think about

G37 Akebono BBK and upgraded to the StopTech slotted/drilled rotors for the front, OEM rotors for the rear. and do you think i will need to ordered the Stoptech Stainless Steel Brake Lines.
At which point u proceeded to rattle on a bunch of off the wall hulla-bulloo that DOES NOT MAKE SENCE.
I provided proof that u were wrong and here we are.

Who called u names by the way?
What did I call u?
I did mention your attitude being condescending and closed minded WHICH IT STILL IS.
Now I'm getting to know u as being controlling as well.
U LOVE telling people what to do.
What to drive, what not to put on their car, how much to spend, what and where to post on message boards.

I wont go as far as saying u have a problem but u might want to check yourself out.
I'm not "riled up" as u say this is actually a lovely debate.
Seeing as I have the calipers and 355mm (14-inch) rotors we are talking about on my car daily.
I can give opinion first hand if I wanted to. I am allowing the OP to think for himself.

Image

And what is wrong with having a BBK any way?
No need to autocross or speed to have a FIRM brake pedal?
Plus there is no denying the "bling" factor using upgraded OEM + aftermarket components.

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XIS
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:spitout:
:)
Last edited by XIS on Mon May 21, 2012 6:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

TimGinCentralNJ
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Thanks XIS. Certainly if I did say something to set Skippy off, it's my hope and expectation that folks would call me out on it.

Mods/Dean-

Any chance you could pull/delete my posts on this thread? I'm not looking to be part of any drama on an otherwise drama-free forum; one of the biggest reasons I like this board.

Thanks,
Tim

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IamDJDubz
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Okay seems as it got a bit intense wow I take everyones advice into consideration
But now back to the original Question

what do you guys think about

G37 Akebono BBK and upgraded to the StopTech slotted/drilled rotors for the front, OEM rotors for the rear. and do you think i will need to ordered the Stoptech Stainless Steel Brake Lines.

or the r1 concept brake kit

i need new brakes and rotos all the way around

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IamDJDubz
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zarar wrote:Purchased R1 Concept Brakes + Slotted Rotors, I changed them at 12,000 miles. currently at 24,000 miles and they are excellent. Quality product in my opinion and they wear well for a heavy braker like me.

DID YOU GET HEM FORM EBAY THERE ARE SO MANY IVE BEEN TRYING TO SEARCH FOR THE RIGHT ONE FOR EX CANT SEEM TO FIND IT

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IamDJDubz
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mikey1951 wrote:DJ: 1st-The last thing you want to do is let the stealership do your brakes. Eezy peezy job. Hawk or PBR ceramic pads and R1 concepts on ebay for drilled/slotted rotors. Paint the calipers yourself. Watch the wheel speed senors. Did a complete job on my wifes Murano a few years ago. Parts will run you ~ 300-400$$. Good luck!

HEY MIKEY THESE LOOK LIKE THE ONES FOR THE EX….. JUST WANNA MAKE SURE I DONT NEED ANYTHING ELSE HERE ARE THE PADS AND ROTORS …. FOR ALL THE WYA AROUND

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRNT-RR-4-ELINE ... #vi-ilComp

rfdillon
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Folks:
I just purchased a 2010 ex35 with~23,500 miles on it, and I've got to tell you, this is my first new car in ~ 11 years. I have been driving an older Mercedes Benz, for which I was used to replacing the soft brake pads every year. I see that both regular metallic pads as well as ceramics are available for the car, and I'm not a big fan of resurfacing or changing out rotors.
Does anyone know of a guide for changing out the brakes on this vehicle? It was incredibly easy to do on the Mercedes, but in those 11 years I never resurfaced the rotors. I didn't let the brakes go far enough to ever eat into them, either, of course, but I was wondering if there existed some sort of DIY guide to doing the front and rear brakes. I guess ceramics are preferred over semi-metallic? Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much in advance!


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