Fried Ignitor Chip

[CA18 RS13]

Well since my ECU wasn't pulling codes properly I went through and checked the resistances of everything listed in the EF and EC section of the FSM. Everything checked out except for the ignitor chip, which gives no continuity on any of the curcuits that the FSM lists it should. So my question is what would cause the chip to just give out like that?Also it says to take off the CAS and test the voltage with the ignition turned to accessory while its plugged in, are you supposed to expose the wires on the harness or is there another way of doing this that I am not aware of. Finally it says to listen for the sound of the injectors working while you spin the CAS, but I don't hear any difference when I am spinning it compaired to when I am not.

[boost_boy]

Quote »Also it says to take off the CAS and test the voltage with the ignition turned to accessory while its plugged in, are you supposed to expose the wires on the harness or is there another way of doing this that I am not aware of. Finally it says to listen for the sound of the injectors working while you spin the CAS, but I don't hear any difference when I am spinning it compaired to when I am not.[/quote] If you've taken off your CAS and (with the ignition on) got no response from the injectors, your CAS might be dead, your ecu might be toast or something because you could here each injector pulse while spinning the CAS with the ignition on. P.S. I have 11 CAS's laying in my parts box so if you ever need some more, let me know.

[CA18 RS13]

so should you hear the injectors clicking individually?

[boost_boy]

The faster you turn it, the more clicks you hear! The slower your turn it, the more individual the clicks sound. if you don't hear either and their's no spark or power at your ignitor, could very well be the ecu, but don't quote me on that as I don't know what situation caused this malfunction in the first place.

[CA18 RS13]

I'm begining to think more and more that my ECU is fried. With my key in accessory every few seconds it sounds like something is shorting out (random clicks that sound like they are coming from an injector but I can't pinpoint where it's coming from). Also like I said in a thread earlier, my ECU does not respond to pulling codes normally (lights blink randomly). So I'm thinking maybe something got shorted out and took out my ignitor chip and ecu, and who knows what else with it. How can I check for sure weither my ECU is fried? Also, if it is fried then that means more then likely my ND chip is tosted as well, right?

[NeedCAforS13]

you can try mine (both ecu and ignitor if you want ) I'll stop by tomorrow some time...I'll call you later.

Sean

[slw240sx]

man you guys are making me want to move down to FL

[boost_boy]

If your ECU doesn't respond to pulling codes, you got problems that are way past the ecu. You need to figure out what caused to act a fool in the first place. Take a sniff of your ecu and smell if you smell the old fatal burnt smell. If you do, repair time.

[CA18 RS13]

ok, this is what it's doing now. I went through and redid every wire I've ever spliced into. The S-AFC and AVC-R both act normally, but when I turn the key on the turbo timer and fuel pump will click a few times in perfect sync, after that the turbo timer will flicker off then back on every few seconds at the exact same time the fuel pump studders and then starts up again.

[CA18 RS13]

the clicking from the intake manifold area also occurs every few seconds but I don't think it's coinciding with the fuel pump/turbo timer. Also every now and then the fuel pump relay will click.... why the hell did my car just take a huge electrical dump at the same time...

[boost_boy]

Quote »why the hell did my car just take a huge electrical dump at the same time[/quote] Maybe it got shot with one of those weird over-loading stun guns used in 2 fast 2 furious:D Just kidding! Go get your alternator tested because I purchased a 4G63 for my Hyundai Elantra and it blew 2 computers and burned out all the electricals in the car. Put in a 3rd ecu, but just let the car idle without dry revving and found out it was the alternator which started charging at 15.3 volts and as I slowly brought the revvs up to 2000rpm, the voltage went up 40volts (overcharging).

[CA18 RS13]

Well see my car won't start at all, so how could the alternator be causing problems if it's not being charged? Does voltage pass through the alternator even when the belt is not causing it to charge? Meh.... I hate electrical problems... I'm begining to think the only way I can get this thing resolved is to pay to have my car towed somewhere and take it up da butt $$$$