freshly built SR20DET, milky oil??

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yitzac1990
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Mar 04, 2015 6:57 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx

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Hey everyone, first off allow me to introduce myself. This is my first time posting here. I have used the site for a lot of information over the years, but now its time to join up and ask a question.

I just fully built my redtop SR, and after starting it for the first time, and doing the first heat cycle, I checked the oil and it came out milky (see pic). Do you know what this could be?? Is this normal on a fresh build? Its got a brand new Cosworth head gasket. I used Lucas assembly lube on all moving parts, and blue Loctite on just about every bolt on the motor. Other than this, the motor started up and ran extremely well, just needs some tuning!

Image

Thanks very much!

P.S. - when I searched for an answer, I really only got info on people who had bad/blown head gaskets on used motors, not FRESH builds with this happening, so im not sure what it could be.


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frapjap
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Welcome to NICO!

Its awesome to learn that you found a lot of answers here over the course of your build. Hopefully we can help you out.
First things first- did you put the head gasket on upside down?
How about the torque sequence for the head bolts? Were they new or reused?
Did you hot tank the block and head? Maybe there is still some dirty oil in there if you didn't.
Is there oil in your coolant? Since its fresh, that might help tell some more of the story.
Can you drain some of the oil and put it in a clear container against a white background? Maybe its just a little dirty from assembly lube.

yitzac1990
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Mar 04, 2015 6:57 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx

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well, here's what I did last night.....

Re-torqued the head studs (they wound up being fine, but always good to double check).
Ran the car to about 195 degrees, and then let it cool.
Changed the oil, checked coolant, did some other little things unrelated to my problem.
Ran the car again to about 195, shut it down.

When I checked the dip stick this time, the oil on the end was as nice and new as when I poured it out of the bottle!!

So, still going to keep an eye on everything obviously, but I take it this is good news, yes?

and no, these HG's can only go on one way, because the area where the timing chain goes is offset from the motor. huge difference in symmetry there.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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yitzac1990 wrote:, these HG's can only go on one way, because the area where the timing chain goes is offset from the motor. huge difference in symmetry there.
I was going to say I was pretty sure that was the case as well.

My initial suggestion was just going to be to change the oil and filter again before doing anything drastic. You're completely correct in that sometimes the assembly lube, rust preventative, and break-in shavings from a fresh rebuild can sometimes result in some funky looking (and smelling) oil.

Just keep an eye on it for a while until your confidance is up. Seat the rings on your first drive out, then take it easy til she's broken in.

yitzac1990
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Mar 04, 2015 6:57 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx

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Thanks for the reply Papa.

which brings me to another question, if you dont mind, how would you suggest I seat the rings on my first drive? I have procedures for breaking it in on a dyno, but I dont have access to a dyno, just street driving.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
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I've always gone by the Flyin Miata method:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/breakin.php

Basically, you take the car out and accelerate up while at zero vaccuum (or boost), then ride the gear down so you'll be under vacuum. Wash, rinse, repeat a few times. Then change the oil hah.

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float_6969
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I think that milky color was from your lucas assembly lube. It has a nasty habit of aerating and will make it look milky. As has been said, keep an eye on it, it's probably fine.


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