French 180SX - 1th gear and high RPM problem

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welcometohell38
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2009 1:40 am
Car: Nissan 180SX '93

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Hi, I'm Chris from France,

I hope you'll understand because my english is really bad...

I've got a problem with my car: it's difficult to put the first gear (cold/hot, same problem) and the second gear sometimes.
My car have just 50 000 km and is in good condition (no drift!)

I've installed a new master cylinder, new slave cylinder, DOT4...

Another problem, I can't shift on the next gear on high RPM (+6000/6500rpm).

I don't know where's the problem?
Hope you can help me,
Regards,
Chris
Last edited by welcometohell38 on Sun Sep 16, 2012 6:46 am, edited 1 time in total.


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blkvrtswp
Posts: 509
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 6:45 pm
Car: 93 240SX Convertible
SR20DET FP 20G Turbo
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY

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Seems to me that your clutch pedal may not be pushing in far enough to fully release the clutch disk from the flywheel. When you replace the master cylinder, you usually have to adjust the pedal engagement.

The clutch pedal adjustment is a threaded rod from the clutch master cylinder that connects to the clutch pedal. There is adjustment in the amount/distance the rod pushes into the master cylinder that can be made by loosening the locking nut and then spinning the threaded rod in or out to adjust the engagement length.

it sounds like you need MORE engagement, so turn the rod CLOCKWISE. Try turning the threaded rod ONE TURN 360 degrees - no more - then test, repeat if necessary. It does not take much to make a big difference on this adjustment.

Good luck.

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welcometohell38
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2009 1:40 am
Car: Nissan 180SX '93

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I will test your method, thank you ! ;)

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welcometohell38
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2009 1:40 am
Car: Nissan 180SX '93

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The clutch is now working good ! Thank you very much !

How i can find the perfect setting ?

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blkvrtswp
Posts: 509
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 6:45 pm
Car: 93 240SX Convertible
SR20DET FP 20G Turbo
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY

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Excellent, glad to hear it! You are looking for somewhere in the middle of these two situations:

1) clutch slips
2) clutch doesn't fully disengage (what you had)

As long as you are in this range, you can move the engagement point (where it grabs) up or down to be closer to the top or bottom of the pedal travel. I usually set the engagement closer to the floor than to the middle/top, but as long as it feels natural when shifting and you have no slipping and no grinding, it is personal preference.

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welcometohell38
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2009 1:40 am
Car: Nissan 180SX '93

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I'm sorry for my enthusiasm but after a couple of days of driving, the problem came back...

Any idea ? I'd like to remove the "clutch loop" but I think it will not change anything... :frown:
Last edited by welcometohell38 on Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:57 am, edited 2 times in total.

compactfean
Posts: 2602
Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:28 am
Car: 89 240sx s13 sr gt3071r 23psi
B14 sentra ser sr20de-t 7psi
daily
Location: reno nv

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That's called the ” dampener” and removing it has solved may peoples problems.

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welcometohell38
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2009 1:40 am
Car: Nissan 180SX '93

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I've removed the "dampener": same problems :(

compactfean
Posts: 2602
Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:28 am
Car: 89 240sx s13 sr gt3071r 23psi
B14 sentra ser sr20de-t 7psi
daily
Location: reno nv

Post

Bleed the f*** out of it? Also make sure master cylinder rod isn't to far in or out. (try adjusting then test drive, if no changes in other direction than just set it to what feels best). how are you bleeding the clutch? You can't pump a clutch pedal like you would the brake pedal to get pressure.

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welcometohell38
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2009 1:40 am
Car: Nissan 180SX '93

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Yes, no problem with the bleeding, the dampener have been kicked out, I've also installed a speed bleeder on the slave cylinder to be sure that there's no air inside...

I'm going to unscrew the rod totally, and turn clockwise step-by-step.
I hope to find the good position with this way :ohno:


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