FRED! 10W/30 v 10W/40
FRED! 10W/30 v 10W/40
Fred, what are the pros an cons of going with a 10W40 or 0W40 synthetic over a 10W30 (if there are any)? What is your preference and why? I am not liking the Mobil 1 synthetic 10W30 and am looking for a change. My engine seems to run with more racket with the Mobil 1 10W30, more tics and tacks. Any suggestions...I live in north Florida by the way so it won't be freezing any time soon. Thanks.
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nuQ
- Posts: 1659
- Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2003 1:39 pm
- Car: 2003 Infiniti M45
2009 Dodge Caliber SXT - Location: Bethlehem PA
wondering the same thing myself fred. i know you recommend the heavier weight (at least 40) oil, but, in reading the older posts, dennis uses 10w-30 mobil 1. in my first oil change used durablend 10w-40 with the sea-foam and mobil 1 trans. fluid flush. due for my next change. looking in the oil filler cap, it looks very, VERY, clean (almost new metal!). just to be on the safe side, will probobly do another flush, but debating whether to go with full synthetic mobil 1 and what weight. like i said, it looks very clean inside and i'm about to start a PA winter. thanks fred! jeff
A paste from some earlier posts of mine on this General subject.
Some of these posts are OLDER and some formulation changes have occured since then, BUT I have usally edited the new info Info in.
Also:
MY APOLOGIES FOR ALL THE TYPOS! I MAKE A LOT OF POSTS ON THIS SITE, SO I GENERALLY TYPE VERY FAST AND DONT EDIT/PROOFREAD!
---------------All other things being equal (same brand):
10w-30 is generally a much better oil than a 5w-30.Its more stable, puts a lower varnish load on your engine (cuz less VII's).Also it will have somwhat better lubricity since the extra VII's a 5w-30 has over a 10w-30 displace some of the base oil.Also a 10w-30 is plenty thin for the winter anywhere but the northern US.
On a side note in most applications and locations a Xw-40 (suchas a 5w-40,10w-40,15w-40) oil is generally a much better choice when engine protection is your priority than the often recommended Xw-30 oils.The reason is that a 30 weight oil will save maybe a fifth of a mpg a fact that is very important to car manufactuers struggling to keep their federally mandated CAFE mpgs down.Some of the penalites assed by the USA govt for exceeding CAFE are pretty expensive (100's of millions of $$) giving manufacturers a hi incentive to squeeze every drop out of a given design.The easiset and cheapest (since no cost to manufacturer) trick to achieve this is to lower viscosity recommendations.You will note that almnost all manufacturere have lowered their recommendations in viscosity significantly vs earlier years in US.
Some myth supporting this is out there (like "todays engines have tighter bearing clearnaces blah blah" but you will find that the viscosity recommendations are lower in the exact same engines as made 15 years ago (the GM 3.8 comes to mind as just one example among many).Even the same engines that are recommended as 10w-40 or 20w-50 in France/Germany/Italy etc are recommend as 5w-30 year 'round here in US, the exact same engine!!!!
Anyway, there are very few vehicles that wont benefit at least in some fashion (however minor) from a swicth to a Xw-40 weight oil in all situation but a northern winter.
In my Q (smashed 5 days ago) I run/ran ValvolineSynPower 5w-40 all year (Kentucky).
ANOTHER PASTE:
A little bit about how using synthetic oils, influence viscosity considerations:
I feel that 5w-30weight oils (at least as a syn) are an obsolete weight, despite their recent popularity with manufactueres.
Why?, because you will <always> be able to get an oil that is better on one end of the performance envelope, than any given 5w-30 at the same price.
Example: You can buy a winter oil in a 0w-30 that will be a much better winter oil for the same price as its syn from same brand in 5w-30 yet the hard running protection will be equal.
Now the sharp reader will say: "AHA! Hypocrisy! Can't I now just use the arguments you used against 5w-30 vs 10w-30 with VII"S and their effects on your choice of 0w-30 over 5w-30?"
The answer is no, the reason is, when you have syn base stokcs you need a lot less (sometimes if any) VII's, to achive a given viscosity range (there is also such a thing as pour point depressents, but I will leave them out to keep this discussion simple).So the difference in non base lube addivtives from a 0w-30 to a 5w-30 is negligible, making the 0w-30 a suoperior choice especially in winter.
On the other end of 5w-30 There is 5w-40 (for a long time the "standard" european grade, like our 10w-30 used to be here).
The 5w-40 (in a syn) wil cold start just as well as a syn in 5w-30 but provide superior film stregnth reserve for fully warmed up drving, and especially hi rev/hiload drving situations, .So the 5w-30 is obsolete here as well.There is abosulutely no need to run a 5w-30 if using synthetic oils for the reasons outlined above.-------------------
SOME MORE:
Check out the oils article in the article section, also the link posted above, to the other poll ,answers some of your questions.
Short summary:Our driving environments are similiar(short trips, some Hard driving), except I drive more miles.I also make sure I drive it real hard (going from 55mph to 11mph up an hill) at least a couple of times a months to keep the chambers clean.I prefer ValvolineSynPower 5w-40, becasue it is higher detergency than MOBIL1 and a readily available 40 full weight syn. ( Edit: no longer a group IV!)This detergent package is important in our higher mile engines.
I want 40 weight oil, due to my hard revving driving habits.I feel a 30 weight is too thin.Especially a MOBIL1 30 weight, which tends to run in the thinner range of what is still considered reeportable as a 30 weight.ie a 27 weight or so, if u reported it as accurate as that ,instead of the standard SAE viscosity steps.Also MOBIL 1 has a history of losing viscosity and going down in viscosity during use.(oil analysis sources primarily on VQ30 and VQ35 engines).
ValvolineSYnPower as a 30 weigth(in a 10w-30) is a bit thicker at operating temps despite teh same value reported for viscosity.
But I feel I want 40 weight oil.5w-40 is a bit of a larger spread with regardsv to VI's than I like,but with my religously prompt oil changes (3000 miles) its a non issue for me.Aslo in a PAO syn VI's are not such a huge problem to begin with.And the 5w- part enables me to run this oil thru a Kentucky winter.(in Minnesota or so I would go thinner)
THe 40 weight oil that u can get in a MOBIL1 is a 0w-40 probaly a good oil it meets teh same rigirous specs for hard driving that teh 5w-40 from SynPower does, but the spread in a 0w-40 is getting a bit too large for comfort for me even in a full syn oil.
EDIT!!!: We now know this to be a not so significant issue, M1 0w-40 has held up well in used oil analyses, maybe not as well as their 15w-50 but still.
---------------------------
Bionic:
SUMMARYIn Florida there is no reason at all, to go with a 30 weight oil short of a brand new engine with unusually tight clearances.
Since you specified synthetic, this argument becomes a bit easier ( in non syns less stability thru too much vII spreads play a role, this not significant in good synthetics, so in non syns you might have an small arguement for 10w-30)
Also recently many newer performance engines running on the now so popular 30 weight recommendations have shown excessive wear of the type suggestive of too thin oils ( boundary layer lubrication breakdown)
A VH45DE certainly is a performance engine and many of us drive them hard.
One of the very best oils currently off the shelf is MOBIL1 0w-40. Makes a great summer and winter oil w/o unduly sacrificing stability.It's the only off-the-shelf oil I am aware of, that meets MB 229.5, it has superseded ValvolineSYnPower 5w-40 as my personal favorite ( I still like the ValSynPO detergent package better and recommend it for not-so-clean engines).
If you autocross and/or street race a lot, 15w-50/20w-50 may be appropiate.Also a pretty stable oil.
A member of this club, autocrossed his turboed car a lot and visibly beat up his MOBIL1 10w30 in a few hundred miles.He switched to Mobil1 15w-50 on my recommendation and has had no problem since.
But a 50 weight may not be neccessary in your NA application and a 40 weight likely the best all round choice.
Here is a collection of some of the very best 40 weight oils available in USA (or more accurately, some of the very best oils period)http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....229.1
Fred...
Some of these posts are OLDER and some formulation changes have occured since then, BUT I have usally edited the new info Info in.
Also:
MY APOLOGIES FOR ALL THE TYPOS! I MAKE A LOT OF POSTS ON THIS SITE, SO I GENERALLY TYPE VERY FAST AND DONT EDIT/PROOFREAD!
---------------All other things being equal (same brand):
10w-30 is generally a much better oil than a 5w-30.Its more stable, puts a lower varnish load on your engine (cuz less VII's).Also it will have somwhat better lubricity since the extra VII's a 5w-30 has over a 10w-30 displace some of the base oil.Also a 10w-30 is plenty thin for the winter anywhere but the northern US.
On a side note in most applications and locations a Xw-40 (suchas a 5w-40,10w-40,15w-40) oil is generally a much better choice when engine protection is your priority than the often recommended Xw-30 oils.The reason is that a 30 weight oil will save maybe a fifth of a mpg a fact that is very important to car manufactuers struggling to keep their federally mandated CAFE mpgs down.Some of the penalites assed by the USA govt for exceeding CAFE are pretty expensive (100's of millions of $$) giving manufacturers a hi incentive to squeeze every drop out of a given design.The easiset and cheapest (since no cost to manufacturer) trick to achieve this is to lower viscosity recommendations.You will note that almnost all manufacturere have lowered their recommendations in viscosity significantly vs earlier years in US.
Some myth supporting this is out there (like "todays engines have tighter bearing clearnaces blah blah" but you will find that the viscosity recommendations are lower in the exact same engines as made 15 years ago (the GM 3.8 comes to mind as just one example among many).Even the same engines that are recommended as 10w-40 or 20w-50 in France/Germany/Italy etc are recommend as 5w-30 year 'round here in US, the exact same engine!!!!
Anyway, there are very few vehicles that wont benefit at least in some fashion (however minor) from a swicth to a Xw-40 weight oil in all situation but a northern winter.
In my Q (smashed 5 days ago) I run/ran ValvolineSynPower 5w-40 all year (Kentucky).
ANOTHER PASTE:
A little bit about how using synthetic oils, influence viscosity considerations:
I feel that 5w-30weight oils (at least as a syn) are an obsolete weight, despite their recent popularity with manufactueres.
Why?, because you will <always> be able to get an oil that is better on one end of the performance envelope, than any given 5w-30 at the same price.
Example: You can buy a winter oil in a 0w-30 that will be a much better winter oil for the same price as its syn from same brand in 5w-30 yet the hard running protection will be equal.
Now the sharp reader will say: "AHA! Hypocrisy! Can't I now just use the arguments you used against 5w-30 vs 10w-30 with VII"S and their effects on your choice of 0w-30 over 5w-30?"
The answer is no, the reason is, when you have syn base stokcs you need a lot less (sometimes if any) VII's, to achive a given viscosity range (there is also such a thing as pour point depressents, but I will leave them out to keep this discussion simple).So the difference in non base lube addivtives from a 0w-30 to a 5w-30 is negligible, making the 0w-30 a suoperior choice especially in winter.
On the other end of 5w-30 There is 5w-40 (for a long time the "standard" european grade, like our 10w-30 used to be here).
The 5w-40 (in a syn) wil cold start just as well as a syn in 5w-30 but provide superior film stregnth reserve for fully warmed up drving, and especially hi rev/hiload drving situations, .So the 5w-30 is obsolete here as well.There is abosulutely no need to run a 5w-30 if using synthetic oils for the reasons outlined above.-------------------
SOME MORE:
Check out the oils article in the article section, also the link posted above, to the other poll ,answers some of your questions.
Short summary:Our driving environments are similiar(short trips, some Hard driving), except I drive more miles.I also make sure I drive it real hard (going from 55mph to 11mph up an hill) at least a couple of times a months to keep the chambers clean.I prefer ValvolineSynPower 5w-40, becasue it is higher detergency than MOBIL1 and a readily available 40 full weight syn. ( Edit: no longer a group IV!)This detergent package is important in our higher mile engines.
I want 40 weight oil, due to my hard revving driving habits.I feel a 30 weight is too thin.Especially a MOBIL1 30 weight, which tends to run in the thinner range of what is still considered reeportable as a 30 weight.ie a 27 weight or so, if u reported it as accurate as that ,instead of the standard SAE viscosity steps.Also MOBIL 1 has a history of losing viscosity and going down in viscosity during use.(oil analysis sources primarily on VQ30 and VQ35 engines).
ValvolineSYnPower as a 30 weigth(in a 10w-30) is a bit thicker at operating temps despite teh same value reported for viscosity.
But I feel I want 40 weight oil.5w-40 is a bit of a larger spread with regardsv to VI's than I like,but with my religously prompt oil changes (3000 miles) its a non issue for me.Aslo in a PAO syn VI's are not such a huge problem to begin with.And the 5w- part enables me to run this oil thru a Kentucky winter.(in Minnesota or so I would go thinner)
THe 40 weight oil that u can get in a MOBIL1 is a 0w-40 probaly a good oil it meets teh same rigirous specs for hard driving that teh 5w-40 from SynPower does, but the spread in a 0w-40 is getting a bit too large for comfort for me even in a full syn oil.
EDIT!!!: We now know this to be a not so significant issue, M1 0w-40 has held up well in used oil analyses, maybe not as well as their 15w-50 but still.
---------------------------
Bionic:
SUMMARYIn Florida there is no reason at all, to go with a 30 weight oil short of a brand new engine with unusually tight clearances.
Since you specified synthetic, this argument becomes a bit easier ( in non syns less stability thru too much vII spreads play a role, this not significant in good synthetics, so in non syns you might have an small arguement for 10w-30)
Also recently many newer performance engines running on the now so popular 30 weight recommendations have shown excessive wear of the type suggestive of too thin oils ( boundary layer lubrication breakdown)
A VH45DE certainly is a performance engine and many of us drive them hard.
One of the very best oils currently off the shelf is MOBIL1 0w-40. Makes a great summer and winter oil w/o unduly sacrificing stability.It's the only off-the-shelf oil I am aware of, that meets MB 229.5, it has superseded ValvolineSYnPower 5w-40 as my personal favorite ( I still like the ValSynPO detergent package better and recommend it for not-so-clean engines).
If you autocross and/or street race a lot, 15w-50/20w-50 may be appropiate.Also a pretty stable oil.
A member of this club, autocrossed his turboed car a lot and visibly beat up his MOBIL1 10w30 in a few hundred miles.He switched to Mobil1 15w-50 on my recommendation and has had no problem since.
But a 50 weight may not be neccessary in your NA application and a 40 weight likely the best all round choice.
Here is a collection of some of the very best 40 weight oils available in USA (or more accurately, some of the very best oils period)http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....229.1
Fred...
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nuQ
- Posts: 1659
- Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2003 1:39 pm
- Car: 2003 Infiniti M45
2009 Dodge Caliber SXT - Location: Bethlehem PA
fred, is there a sure-fire way to determine just how clean an engine really is other than checking to see any change in the color of the oil??? with a flashlight, i looked in the filler cap and the visiable metal really seemed spotless!!! almost seemed new. no sludge in, or on the cap. debating whether to switch from the detergent-rich valvoline to mobil 1. thanks fred! jeff
-
szh
- Posts: 15932
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:54 pm
- Car: 2018 Tesla Model 3.
Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO! - Location: San Jose, CA
Hi, Fred.
Speaking of engine oils, the M45 manual says the following:
Quote »Only those engine oils with the American Petroleum Institute (API) certification mark on the front of the container should be used. This type of oil supersedes the existing API SG, SH or SJ and Energy Conserving I and II categories.
If you cannot find engine oil with the API certification mark, use an API grade SJ or SL, Energy Conserving oil. An ILSAC grade GF-II & GF-III oil can also be used.[/quote]And, of course, SAE 5W-30 is "preferred", although it does say that 10W-30 or 10W-40 may be used if the ambient temperature is above 0 deg F.
1. Is the "API certification mark" something new? Is it truly used in lieu of the API serivce mark like the manuals seems to imply?
2. Given that my engine is new, without varnish, etc., is the "Fred School of Hard (I mean No) Knocks" recommendation for Mobile 1 0W-40 or 10W-40 still the right choice for my car?
3. Would I be better off with a full-synthetic or a partial-synthetic or a dino-oil? What would be your choice, given that I am in a relatively warm climate with hardly any temps below 0 deg F.
Z
Speaking of engine oils, the M45 manual says the following:
Quote »Only those engine oils with the American Petroleum Institute (API) certification mark on the front of the container should be used. This type of oil supersedes the existing API SG, SH or SJ and Energy Conserving I and II categories.
If you cannot find engine oil with the API certification mark, use an API grade SJ or SL, Energy Conserving oil. An ILSAC grade GF-II & GF-III oil can also be used.[/quote]And, of course, SAE 5W-30 is "preferred", although it does say that 10W-30 or 10W-40 may be used if the ambient temperature is above 0 deg F.
1. Is the "API certification mark" something new? Is it truly used in lieu of the API serivce mark like the manuals seems to imply?
2. Given that my engine is new, without varnish, etc., is the "Fred School of Hard (I mean No) Knocks" recommendation for Mobile 1 0W-40 or 10W-40 still the right choice for my car?
3. Would I be better off with a full-synthetic or a partial-synthetic or a dino-oil? What would be your choice, given that I am in a relatively warm climate with hardly any temps below 0 deg F.
Z
Z:
1) same things, current spec is SL last spec ( which many oil bottles still say ) is SJ, but the SH was not a bad spec either
When going from API SH to SJ while raising the bar in some areas it also went to limiting the amount of ZDDP a oil can have, to address manufacturers concerns, about catalytic converter warranties, with this classicaa anti- wear additive (which can poison cats if you have blowby)
As a result many SH oils where better at protecting your engine that the later SJ spec.This applies particularily for MOBIL1 oils.
The New SuperSYn by MOBIL one is an attempt to use a new anti-wear additive tpo subsutitute for ZDDP.
AMSOIL and Redline are niche manufacturers and as such never bothred much to lower their ZDDP just to meet SJ or even SL.
I would trust their oils to meet/ exceed (by far) all performance sp[ecs laid out by SL, but since they use too much ZDDP they wont get API cert.
2+3) An engine during operation wants to see a certain viscosity , when its hot ( as it is everywhere in US) even with a good cooling system engine oil temps rise.
During break-in I would recommend a Dino 10w-30.Good Dino 10w-30's are : Castrol GTX and Pennzoil (yes Castrol GTX has apparently become very good , does great in oil analyses in Nissan corporation engines)
Since you live in CA witrh its mild winters and hot summers:
And after the second or third oil change, switch to MOBIL 1 0w-40 and never look back ( or redline 10w-40 or AMSOIL 10w-40) you engine is new and likely has tight clearances so U wont go to a 50 weight even in summer.
Fred...
1) same things, current spec is SL last spec ( which many oil bottles still say ) is SJ, but the SH was not a bad spec either
When going from API SH to SJ while raising the bar in some areas it also went to limiting the amount of ZDDP a oil can have, to address manufacturers concerns, about catalytic converter warranties, with this classicaa anti- wear additive (which can poison cats if you have blowby)
As a result many SH oils where better at protecting your engine that the later SJ spec.This applies particularily for MOBIL1 oils.
The New SuperSYn by MOBIL one is an attempt to use a new anti-wear additive tpo subsutitute for ZDDP.
AMSOIL and Redline are niche manufacturers and as such never bothred much to lower their ZDDP just to meet SJ or even SL.
I would trust their oils to meet/ exceed (by far) all performance sp[ecs laid out by SL, but since they use too much ZDDP they wont get API cert.
2+3) An engine during operation wants to see a certain viscosity , when its hot ( as it is everywhere in US) even with a good cooling system engine oil temps rise.
During break-in I would recommend a Dino 10w-30.Good Dino 10w-30's are : Castrol GTX and Pennzoil (yes Castrol GTX has apparently become very good , does great in oil analyses in Nissan corporation engines)
Since you live in CA witrh its mild winters and hot summers:
And after the second or third oil change, switch to MOBIL 1 0w-40 and never look back ( or redline 10w-40 or AMSOIL 10w-40) you engine is new and likely has tight clearances so U wont go to a 50 weight even in summer.
Fred...
nuQ wrote: with a flashlight, i looked in the filler cap and the visiable metal really seemed spotless!!! almost seemed new. no sludge in, or on the cap. jeff
Sounds like your engine is <very> clean!
you want an oil like MOBIL1 then, cuz less detergent means more room for other additives (anti-wear, anti foaming, anti rust etc)
Fred...
-
szh
- Posts: 15932
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- Car: 2018 Tesla Model 3.
Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO! - Location: San Jose, CA
Thanks for the info, Fred!
By the way, the local Infiniti dealer uses "Quaker State" 5W-30 for all its work. I have never seen anybody talk about or recommend this oil. Nor do I see it on shelves (at major stores, that is ... not the auto stores).
Is this brand at all decent? Or should I stop allowing the dealer to do my oil changes and DIY?
Z
By the way, the local Infiniti dealer uses "Quaker State" 5W-30 for all its work. I have never seen anybody talk about or recommend this oil. Nor do I see it on shelves (at major stores, that is ... not the auto stores).
Is this brand at all decent? Or should I stop allowing the dealer to do my oil changes and DIY?
Z
-
szh
- Posts: 15932
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:54 pm
- Car: 2018 Tesla Model 3.
Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO! - Location: San Jose, CA
Hi, Fred!
Some additional questions, please (... and thanks!)
I assume you mean the synthetics in the Redline and Amsoil brands, right?
At auto stores near where I work, I do not see 10W-40, but I do see 5W-40 (Redline, Amsoil) and 15W-50 or 20W-50 (Mobil 1, Redline and Amsoil). So ...
1. Is the 5W-40 a worse choice than the 10W-40? My rationale for the question being: "it tries to cover a wider range of viscosity, so perhaps it compromises the detergents more?"
2. Again, given the warmer climates here, are the 15W-50 and 20W-50 formulations not a better choice than going with a 10W-40?
I know that there aren't exact answers here, so I am not expecting a perfect solution, but your research and guidance has been very helpful. Thanks again,
Z
Some additional questions, please (... and thanks!)
PalmerWMD wrote:During break-in I would recommend a Dino 10w-30.Good Dino 10w-30's are : Castrol GTX and Pennzoil (yes Castrol GTX has apparently become very good , does great in oil analyses in Nissan corporation engines)
Since you live in CA witrh its mild winters and hot summers:
And after the second or third oil change, switch to MOBIL 1 0w-40 and never look back ( or redline 10w-40 or AMSOIL 10w-40) you engine is new and likely has tight clearances so U wont go to a 50 weight even in summer.
I assume you mean the synthetics in the Redline and Amsoil brands, right?
At auto stores near where I work, I do not see 10W-40, but I do see 5W-40 (Redline, Amsoil) and 15W-50 or 20W-50 (Mobil 1, Redline and Amsoil). So ...
1. Is the 5W-40 a worse choice than the 10W-40? My rationale for the question being: "it tries to cover a wider range of viscosity, so perhaps it compromises the detergents more?"
2. Again, given the warmer climates here, are the 15W-50 and 20W-50 formulations not a better choice than going with a 10W-40?
I know that there aren't exact answers here, so I am not expecting a perfect solution, but your research and guidance has been very helpful. Thanks again,
Z
They changed those to 5w-40 from 10w-40 soem time back my bad.No the 5w-40 is an excellent oil.I didnt know AMSOIL had gone to 5w-40 as well for their 40 weight.I trust their base oils are good enough to not need excess VII's to make this spread.
Both are excellent oils, AMSOIL is a bit like MOBIL1+ ZDDP and redline uses Group V base oils.
Any 40 weight oil that is 5w- or thinner, for startup, will work well for you in cold start.and the 40 weight ( at least in these oils' base stock) means good boundarylayer protection.
With as new a car as you have, I would not run the 50 weights yet, even in summer, unless you were a turbo, which you are not;)
Fred..
Both are excellent oils, AMSOIL is a bit like MOBIL1+ ZDDP and redline uses Group V base oils.
Any 40 weight oil that is 5w- or thinner, for startup, will work well for you in cold start.and the 40 weight ( at least in these oils' base stock) means good boundarylayer protection.
With as new a car as you have, I would not run the 50 weights yet, even in summer, unless you were a turbo, which you are not;)
Fred..
Fred, a quick easy one for you: I'm trying to decide between a Mobil 1 15W-50, Valvoline Synpower 20W50, or a comparable redline oil (15W-50 or 20W-50). This will be on a freshly rebuilt and turbocharged engine in Texas so it never gets too cool here. I dont think I can really make a bad choice between any of those, but what do you think? I think the Redline might be a little expensive to use in a daily driver that will get a decent number of miles put on it. I've been leaning towards the Mobil 1 because I've used it before and it took a beating pretty well.
They are all very good oils and there is no wrong choice here, but..
Since the Valvoline traditionally are strong in detergents and you wont need as much those in a new engine its more imnportan you buy somethign stable that will keep your engine clean via less decomposition of oil.
A Turbo in Texas summer needs a 50 weight oil no doubt about it.And the lack of cold start ability wont hamper you.
I have seen the MOBIL1 15w-50 do well before in turbo charged engines even when autocrossed.The Redline is likely even a bit stronger oil due to their use of group V base oils (esters) vs MOBIL1 group IV ( polyalphaolefin also better base stock than most synthetic oils).
if the price matters though I'd go with the MOBIL1. The Redline will likely have an incrementally better boundary layer protection and perhaps better cold start ability due to its use of groupV ( group IV is also very good at this.Anyway we are talking increments here.
Buy what is the easiest to afford between those 2 any difference in performance will be incremental and hard to discern.
I dont know how cold it gets in winter where you are but if it gets close to freezing ever, consider Mobil1 0w40 as a winter fill.
Fred..
Since the Valvoline traditionally are strong in detergents and you wont need as much those in a new engine its more imnportan you buy somethign stable that will keep your engine clean via less decomposition of oil.
A Turbo in Texas summer needs a 50 weight oil no doubt about it.And the lack of cold start ability wont hamper you.
I have seen the MOBIL1 15w-50 do well before in turbo charged engines even when autocrossed.The Redline is likely even a bit stronger oil due to their use of group V base oils (esters) vs MOBIL1 group IV ( polyalphaolefin also better base stock than most synthetic oils).
if the price matters though I'd go with the MOBIL1. The Redline will likely have an incrementally better boundary layer protection and perhaps better cold start ability due to its use of groupV ( group IV is also very good at this.Anyway we are talking increments here.
Buy what is the easiest to afford between those 2 any difference in performance will be incremental and hard to discern.
I dont know how cold it gets in winter where you are but if it gets close to freezing ever, consider Mobil1 0w40 as a winter fill.
Fred..
Re: FRED! 10W/30 v 10W/40 (BIONICQ45)
even though this is an old thread. thanks for the info. im about to run 5w30 for the winter in NJ
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szh
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- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:54 pm
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Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO! - Location: San Jose, CA
Re: FRED! 10W/30 v 10W/40 (nchopp)
at nchopp!
But the information is still valid, fortunately!
Z
But the information is still valid, fortunately!
Z
Re: FRED! 10W/30 v 10W/40 (nchopp)
nchopp wrote:
is this a bad thing?
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szh
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- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:54 pm
- Car: 2018 Tesla Model 3.
Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO! - Location: San Jose, CA
Re: FRED! 10W/30 v 10W/40 (JLonevia)
Nope! nchopp was making a joke about a thread rising from the dead!JLonevia wrote:
is this a bad thing?
Z