Frakking Exhaust Locking Tabs!

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
User avatar
hungryjoseph
Posts: 1465
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 2:46 pm
Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

Post

i have an exhaust leak to where the manifold and the turbo connect. i found one loose nut, it's the front left bolt looking at the turbo from the driving position. the gasket has a two flaps, one long one that extends across the joint area, and a small flap that only covers the nut. that small flap is causing me problems on screwing that bolt back on tight... no sockets or anything will fit. the only thing that seems like it will fit is a VERY small wrench, the length of a pinkie finger tightening it from the direction of the motor. how do i get around this? it's an s14 sr with a stock t28 if it helps somehow. can i just bend that flap? will i see and negative effects from that?


User avatar
SpeedRacer1
Posts: 3144
Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2002 7:44 pm
Car: 1990 240SX, G35

Post

Are you talking about bending the locking tabs?

User avatar
hungryjoseph
Posts: 1465
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 2:46 pm
Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

Post

is that what they're called?

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

It has to be the lock tabs. Nothing else fits that description.

Joe, the point of those tabs is that when you tighten the nuts down, they bend over the nut preventing it from vibrating loose. Someone's either had that turbo off in the past or the factory did a crap job of getting that tab down on the nut.

You'll have to bend it out of the way, tighten your nut down and then take a wrench (preferably a size or 2 larger than the nut) and beat it back into shape around the nut. I find taking a punch to it and tapping it into the side of the nut once it's bent in the general shape helps to keep the flap up against the nut and prevent it from backing off in the future.

User avatar
hungryjoseph
Posts: 1465
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 2:46 pm
Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

Post

alright, thanks alot!

i was trying to take the cat off my downpipe... and i think i yanked a bit too hard on it.

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

Here's a moldy oldy thread I started way back in the day on the evils of lock tabs.

zerothread?id=75085

It should have some info you can use.

User avatar
hungryjoseph
Posts: 1465
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 2:46 pm
Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

Post

should i replace my gasket before driving it? or can i just use this high temp RTV i used for the rest of my exhaust?

User avatar
SpeedRacer1
Posts: 3144
Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2002 7:44 pm
Car: 1990 240SX, G35

Post

Are you talking about the 4 bolt gasket? That particular gasket probably takes the biggest beating of any exhaust gasket. I would NOT use RTV on that connection. Just get another OEM gasket if it needs to be replaced.

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

Agree 100% on that. That connection sees a lot of flex from the turbo torquing under load. and it has concentrated exhaust gasses flowing past it. Call up courtesy nissan and order one. Just tell them you need the 4 bolt exhaust to turbo manifold gasket

User avatar
SpeedRacer1
Posts: 3144
Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2002 7:44 pm
Car: 1990 240SX, G35

Post

Or get it from a local Nissan parts dept or auto store. It is the same gasket as the one used on the Z32 300ZX. Part number 14415-17M00.

User avatar
hungryjoseph
Posts: 1465
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 2:46 pm
Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

Post

thanks guys... one more question, whats the best way for me to go about doing this? i can't reach two of the bolts on the engine side, do i have to pull the whole turbo off? if so, what's the best way to pull it off?

DrifterProdigy85
Posts: 1817
Joined: Sat Jul 02, 2005 7:42 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx (Zenki Onevia)

Post

Drain Coolant, Unbolt Dipstick and move to the side, Remove Intake, Remove Hotpipe, Unbolt DP from Elbow, Unclamp Turbo Oil Return Line from underneath, Unbolt Turbo Lines from Block, Unbolt the Manifold from Block, Then pull the entire Manifold/Turbo/Elbow Assembly out. Somtimes it helps to unbolt the Brake Cylinder and move it up some. Removing everything usually takes me 1 to 1.5 hours but ive done it quite a few times.

User avatar
hungryjoseph
Posts: 1465
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 2:46 pm
Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

Post

wow that suks... shhhhhhhit. looks like i'm going to have to push aside a whole day for this, probably take me 8 hours with my mechanical skills.. thanks

User avatar
SpeedRacer1
Posts: 3144
Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2002 7:44 pm
Car: 1990 240SX, G35

Post

If the gasket isnt blown I would just try to tighten it on the car. The only truly good way to get to all four nuts and ensure the locking tabs will hold is by working on this section outside the car.

User avatar
hungryjoseph
Posts: 1465
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 2:46 pm
Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

Post

i'll try that, but theres a bolt on the engine side near the firewall that i can't reach, but ill try to figure it out. sppedracer, i like your car, that sthe type x skirts/bumper right?

User avatar
SpeedRacer1
Posts: 3144
Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2002 7:44 pm
Car: 1990 240SX, G35

Post

Its a Vertex kit that needs to be painted, the Vertex stuff is slightly more accentuated than the OEM Kouki aero. And is fiberglass unfortunately.

User avatar
hungryjoseph
Posts: 1465
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 2:46 pm
Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

Post

damn bomex and vertex look exactly the same!


Return to “SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)”