FPR Question

[240Clarke]

This is a semi long read, and sort of all over the place. My apologies beforehand.

Car: S13 Coupe
Engine: CA18DET

So just installed my CA. Im using the stock FPR and a Walbro 255lph pump. Ive read on many forums the possibility of the stock fpr being overran with a upgraded fuel pump, but what are the symptoms of that? My engine got absolutely flooded. To the point where my turbo elbow is coated with fuel (newly rebuilt SR T25) and my oil smells like gas. If it was flooded enough, could those 2 be results?
I just ordered a Nismo Type A, hoping that solves the issue.

I failed to replace the rear main seal when I put the engine in (I literally replaced EVERYTHING on the motor, just idiot part on my behalf overlooking the rear main), and it leaks. Leaks a steady stream of gas/oil upon cranking and starting. I say gas/oil because the oil smells like gas and in a test to isolate what it was, it ignites easily. I will be replacing it this weekend. Im guessing the overabundance of flooding, (many attempts to start the car before it actually fired up), caused fuel to leak down in the oil? Either way, what is the easiest procedure to replace the rear main? Is it pulling the engine, or just dropping the transmission while its still in the car. Ive read of people doing both. And I will be replacing the oil pan gasket at the same time. Once again, could just unbolt the mounts and jack the engine up a few inches, or pull the motor set. Wanted to see what people found the least time consuming/easiest to do.

All help is appreciated, flaming me for not replacing the rear main when the engine was already out of the car wont help. Thanks guys.

[Spawn_CA18]

don't want to open new thread , i have a question too

my friend bought an type a frp for him SR20 , but it didn't fit it . it fits to RB25 .

so can i use this frp on my ca18 det?

sorry clarke..

[240Clarke]

According to the part #'s, if it fit the RB25/26, it should fit an S13 SR20. In the application guides it says "EXCEPT S14/S15" for the SR20DET. And from what Ive read, the Type A is compatible without an adapter for both the SR20 and CA18. Somebody correct me if I am wrong.

[Spawn_CA18]

car was a S14 zenki w/ SR20 side feed inlet( the car that frp doesn't fit ) . so you are correct.

i "think" side feed - top feed fuel rails/inlets make difference..

so i got my answer. thank you clarke

[240Clarke]

No problem man. Type B and the adapter maybe?

Still need questions for the OP. Lol

[Spawn_CA18]

for your problem ,

i'm using walbro gss342 since 4 years with stock frp . no problem at all.

i believe you should search your problem at another part of engine..

[240Clarke]

I asked because in Floats guide I believe he mentioned that the fuel pump could overrun the stock FPR sometimes. Thanks for the feedback though, Ill be looking over everything again. The injectors and rail arent visibly leaking. First start was with just an open turbo elbow, and there was fuel coming out of it. Like a constant drip of 93 octane. Ugh. Not sure what it could be. For some reason I was thinking that maybe it could be so flooded that it was pushing fuel out of the exhaust valve or something. Extremely unlikely, but Idk what else it could be.

[240Clarke]

And for the record, the FPR vacuum is T'ed off to a vacuum port on the back of the intake manifold and to the butterfly actuator.

[Spawn_CA18]

maybe not related but ,

are you sure that your car runs 4 piston ?


from my experiences , never T FPR vacuum line .. it can cause overflow as you mentioned.

by the way , check your fuel return to tank and correct that it is working properly .

do you have AFR Wideband gauge?

[240Clarke]

I do have a wideband, but with the rear main seal leaking so profusely, and gas now in the oil, I dare not run it. Run 4 piston? Not sure what that means. And I read either on here or on Driftopia to tell the butterfly into that line. Hmm. Ill have to take a closer look when I get home for the return line, but upon initial inspection yesterday it looks to be operating correctly, and wasnt wet from leakage.

[Spawn_CA18]

i'm considering where can oil and fuel can get mixed up ;

piston rings is most solid answer i think .

after changing rear main seal . you should do a compression test . because fuel and oil doesn't match in so much places.

running 4 piston : maybe a problem in a piston engine runs in 3 cylinders , in that condition over fueling combustion chamber and un-burned fuel can go through turbo and can cause wetness on elbow . but this is just imagination .

first of all i think you should do a compression test( after rear main seal )

[240Clarke]

Compression test it is. Replacing the rear main this weekend. I was thinking piston rings, but with fuel sitting in the chamber, it was leak down anyways Im assuming. And wetness, try more like a constant drip. Of course when I pulled the fuse for the fuel pump and tried cranking it a few times it slowed down then stopped. Im guessing it could be a number of things, bad coil pack not igniting, FPR error causing it to over fuel, sticking injector. One of those.

[Spawn_CA18]

just try this ;

get a long screwdriver and tie a piece of cloth on it . then remove coils and spark plugs and put screw driver inside combustion chamber and touch it to piston . you can see if there is a over load of fuel standing on piston or etc.

also as i say . if you do a compression test , you can eliminate so much things.

you can just check is there any oil left in engine and do this test before changing rear main seal . its a short job to do .

because maybe after test , you are gonna say hello to our little re-build angel

[240Clarke]

I pulled the spark plugs earlier and took a look down the holes with a flash light. No obvious fluid on top of the pistons. Still look pretty damn clean actually.

But to be honest, Im starting to think the rebuild angel will come visit me. My motor is having all kinds of problems. Took forever to start it because the crank would spin 3/4 revolution then like completely LOCK up. Then you spin it in the opposite direction and 1 revolution later, same thing. Granted the engine hadnt been running for about a year, so I thought I just needed to break it loose or something. Finally it passed that point in both directions after spinning it back and forth, and hasnt done it completely since then, but does get tough like its going to sometimes.
I replaced every gasket and seal from the head gasket up. New valve seals, valve job, has the head hot tanked and decked and new ARP head studs installed. I didnt go into the block though. I had the block and head mated and and timing done at a shop after they did the head.
Though my starter has already walked out on me, and I think it could possible be the gear not fully retracting back and catching up on the flywheel.

Oh, and I lined up a compression test for this Fri/Sat. And since Im taking the oil pan off anyways to replace the gasket, Ill check the bearings. Though the shop checked them for me and told me they looked good.

[Spawn_CA18]

OK man , inform us about what happened.

also check your belt timing ... if it is installed right

[240Clarke]

Just a quick update from work I did on it yesterday. I removed the started and the engine doesnt lock up or anything anymore. Definitely a bad starter, and Im having one priority shipped to me now. And there was a lot of gas in my oil, but Im sure thats from just many unsuccessful attempts at starting it. Spinning the crank, it took 31.5 ft lbs of torque to spin the engine when not in compression and 42.7 ft lbs when in compression. Pretty easy. but was told by some CA gurus that that sounds completely fine. Still compression testing it this weekend and will post the results.