Forgive my n00bishness, but can you guys tell me what you think of this car?

[snvin]

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/...dptop

First off, this is not a "classic" SE-R, so isn't that a high asking price?

It has a SR20DE, correct? ...so...A Bluebird SR20DET should bolt in, right? Will the auto transmission pose any problems? (I didn't know they made SE-Rs with auto trannies!)

[RED_DET]

That is a decent price for that car. Yes the sr20det bolts right up, but you would not want to use an automatic transmission. You could do a 5sp conversion, but that could become a royal pain in the a$$. Better off just finding a sr powered car that is manual, IMHO.

[snvin]

Thanks for the input! I figured it would be you who responded. (Seems like you post more regularly than others. )

I prefer driving a manual anyway, and I really want a classic. (I drive a '04 WRX wagon right now, but I am putting WAY too many miles on it. I want something to drive maybe 2-3 days/week and track occasionally.)

I am current high bidder on this one. What do you think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...%3AIT

Edit: He even has teh same wheels as you!

[nametakennow]

If it's as clean as it looks and has been written up as, looks like a great deal.

In fact, my only complaint would be wheel color, and I'm kinda picky about my cars.

Good luck!

[snvin]

Yeah, I wasn't a fan of the white on black either, but it's not lie they can't be sold/traded.

I did a VIN check, and there was some funny stuff at some point with the odometer. Looks like it was rolled back by 30K mi. at some point. I'm not too concerned with that however, if the swap only has 30K itself.

I thin it may have failed emissions at some point as well.

[RED_DET]

Looks like a good deal, 3900 is a bit steep though for a reserve.

[snvin]

Looks like a good deal, 3900 is a bit steep though for a reserve.

Yep. Actually, $3K is around what I want to spend, max. (I don't think I have a prayer.)

Edit: How much whould you guys pay for that car?
Modified by snvin at 12:36 PM 6/1/2005

[RED_DET]

W/mods, 3k max.. probably more like 2800. Damn you can get turboed classics for 5-6k.

[snvin]

Highest bid was 2575.... and the reserve still wasn't met.

Personally, I think the guy had a buyer lined up just in case that happened. Oh well. I think I'll have better luck looking out for a plain 2.0

That would be a SE, right?

[nametakennow]

No, unless it's a B15 or a B14 SE-L.

In the 200SX/B13 world, SE-R is the only trim that came with the SR, all others came with the GA16DE.

[snvin]

Sorry for all the questions. Are there any good FAQs or other resources on the web for transverse SRs?

Any idea which Infinity G20s will take an SR20 w/o mods?

[nametakennow]

Huh?

All Infiniti G20s came with an SR20DE.

There are a few threads here, including Sentra Gen, that will tell you almost anything you need to know. If there's something not answered, just ask, and if we can't answer it, we'll direct you to someone who can.

[snvin]

lol... Sorry. I mean sr20det... as in bluebird or gti-r.

I'm just looking for some swap specific info, especially since the only cars I can afford are high-mileage.

For instance, there's a '91 G20 with an automatic that I'm looking at. There are boatloads of info on RWD sr20det swaps, but there isn't much along the lines of what's required for a transverse seap.

RED_DET has put together some helpful info as far as specs, but again, not much swap-specific stuff.

I'm looking for answers to questions like whether or not the USDM ECU and everything else will work with a JDM turbocharged variant?

[nametakennow]

A USDM ECU will work, but you'll have to get an SAFC to compensate for the increased air and fuel (turbo engines have bigger injectors), and even then, you couldn't run much boost, I'd suggest getting the JDM ECU that was with the engine to start with.

I'll be running an USDM ECU on my USDM engine with JDM turbo parts bolted on, at least for a year. Like the above, I'll be using an SAFC to compensate for the added a/f.

Other than that, the swap would be a direct bolt-in, since the it's the same engine except for the a/f parts.

You have one more engine choice, an Avenir, by the way.

Also, some of those motors use a top-mount intercooler. You'd either want to replace it with a side or front mount, or fashion a hood scoop to feed it.

[snvin]

Yes, I saw that they have top-mounts. It was a little surprising.

I have a WRX, so I'm no stranger to the TMIC, and because of that, I know that there's more to it than just cutting a scoop in the hood; A TMIC would need a good splitter as well to direct the air appropriately.

I'd probably just go with a FMIC. From what I've read the piping for the FMIC must be custom made. (although I am sure there are some JDM FMICs out there... which would be WAY to expensive to bring over) If the piping has to be custom bent (bad), that means I can choose my own core (good).

Coming from NASIOC (Subie forums) I know WRX guys sell TMIC cores for $100. Nobody says you can't mount it in the front. lol.

You mentioned the SAFC to compensate for the bigger injectors.... would I need to get a fuel pump to keep up with the injectors?

Thans for all the info. You and RED_DET are a great help... although I am starting to think you are the only 2 guys who read this forum.

[RED_DET]

Guess I need to do a how to swap FAQ. All the engines I posted specs on fit into the B13, 200sx, G20 and B15 sentras. The swap is more straight forward if the car already had a sr, i.e. se-r, 200sx se-r, sentra se 2.0 or g20. The non sr models can be swapped out for the sr, but obvisouly parts from sr cars will have to be used as well. Wiring harness, axles, transmission, motor mounts, cross member and ecu. I wouldn't waste my time on an automatic car though.

Once a turbo swap is complete, you can use the stock ecu from a sr car, but ntn said, you would have to use a safc I or II to compenstate for more fuel and air or have the ecu reprogrammed by Jim wolf technology. E manage is another option, but very expensive and you need to know what the hell you are doing. Yes you would also need a bigger fuel pump if you plan to run anything more than stock boost. Cheap and easy upgrade, so might as well do it for safety sake anyways. $100 is nothing compared to destroying your 2-3k turbo motor. I ran a tmic on my t25 setup until I went with the T28. Cut a whole in the hood, mounted a Suby hoodscoop and never had any problems. Heat soak in the summer, but what do you expect, your suby gets heat soaked also, splitter or not. You could always hook up a sprayer system, cheap and effective.

[nametakennow]

How do sprayer systems work, by the way? I have an inkling but I've never been sure... Is a water sprayer even worth it, or do you need something colder?

[snvin]

Most people refer to WATER sprayers when they speak about intercooler sprayers, although the companies that make nitrous kits also make nitrous sprayers, which sprays much, much cooler. I have heard of guys putting ice water in their IC sprayer reservoirs on track days.

To know how a sprayer system works, you have to know how an intercooler works, which you probably do already.

You already know that hot air from the turbocharger goes through the IC and heats up the metal fins. Or another way to look at it is the metal fins remove heat from the air inside the IC, thus lowering the temp. On the outside of the IC when you are moving the cooler air rushing past, the fins do the same thing, the cool air pulls heat from the metal. This is why people like to use intercooler spray systems. A light mist of fluid like water will pull more heat away from the metal and then in turn form the air going into the motor. Basically it's eaporative cooling.

Not long ago there was a guy who set up some temp. probes on his TMIC, which had a home-made water sprayer (he used windshield washer fluid sprayer pump, etc...) He took readings before and after spraying water on his intercooler. Anyway, it turns out that while the car is going fast, the spray hardly does anything, because there's plenty of cooler air passing through the IC fins. while the car was stopped or in city driving however, the spray did make a pretty decent impact on the IC temp.

RED_DET - Thanks for the swap info. I did track down some additional info on G20.net and SR20forum.com. Both of those sites have more transverse SR guys than Nicoclub, apparently.

Regarding heatsoak on my Subie, check this out: http://www.speedmonkee.com/det...ID=56 It has worked great for me in preventing heatsoak to the point where I'm amazed at how effective it is. Where my IC used to be hot to the touch on summer days after stop-go traffic, now it's just slightly warm. The chimney shield works by diverting hot air from the turbo up out of the hood scoop while you're stopped, and at speed, it diverts some air down right over the turbo. I'm sure it doesn't cool the turbo down much, but at least it's keeping that air moving down and away from the IC.

[nametakennow]

A ha, that's what I figured.

Yes, G20.net and SR20forum have more transverse guys, they're dedicated to those cars. I'm a member at both of those forums as well, though I'm only active on the latter and I rarely post, mostly read. Stick around though, the more B/P chassis people we can keep, the more quickly NICO will become a bank for that knowledge as well and the more members with these cars we'll have.

[outcastcat]

I occasionally read and post here. Not a member of SR20, but i should probably check it out more. Mostly Im a member here cause im interested in the old B13 SE-R, and i try to learn stuff here on it and the other nissan cars (ive somehow become a nissan fan).

Unfortunetly, if you havent gathered already my knowledge pails in comparison to RED and name, so i dont post answers much cause i probably have little idea what im talking about.

O well, I just keep searching for that one add, and when i do ill probably buy it up. If a Gen II RX-7 N/A or (though less likely) a MK-II Golf (because the SE-R is better)

And then...theres the CA swapped B12. Rumored to take 300hp in stock form. Still considering, but the cars are beat to death. ...even more than SE-Rs, which are too.