Forgive my ignorance... Please tell me, what is a TCU?

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Infinitiguy19
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Here for got to post in my initial post: http://www.q45.org/trannycooler.html

Here are the coolers you can buy I would recomend the more expencive one because Brian say it cools more, But you can safely go with the cheaper one because a cooler no matter the cooling ablity is better than the current setup.


maxnix
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heatherin951 wrote:i just realized i typed jiggled instead of giggled.
Both jiggling and giggling are permitted.

Since you have labor covered, the best bet is to get a Nissan remanufactured one from Joe. Don't let anyone talk you into a local rebuild unless it is a race shop that is fully setup for it. It will cost more than Joe.

http://www.infinitipartsusa.com

You will get a $400 core refund once he gets the old one back.

You will want at the very least to replace the rear main bearing seal, and probably the 3rd motor (transmission) mount and associated exhaust hangers also.

The external auxiliary ATF coolers are B&M 70268 and 79264. The former for between the condenser and radiator, the latter for where the active cooler would be on the driver's side. Longer SS bolts adn nuts and washers for the air box above can be made to work nicely for that installation. You want to by pass the single tank in your car's radiator.

http://www.summitracing.com

Most of us prefer M1 ATF with 6 oz. of Lube Guard Red (NOT Black).

Have your friend come here and read the posts about dropping the transmission. He will need a lift, a tranmission jack, 3' extensions and two strong friends at critical moments.

Make sure he reads the FSM for 1994 also.

There were some 1st gear (1993) TCU in the classifieds here and on eBay occasionally.

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heatherin951
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http://www.infinitipartsusa.com

^^^The transmission I see there is $5000.!!Yikes! no way .

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SteveTheTech
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That's a shame sorry to hear about the bad news. Hopefully you will be able to find something a little more reasonable.

maxnix
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heatherin951 wrote:http://www.infinitipartsusa.com

^^^The transmission I see there is $5000.!!Yikes! no way .
Call them. You probably saw the RE5, not the RE4.

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heatherin951
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please tell me why I shouldnt purchase a rebuilt locally?

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Infinitiguy19
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Well a local rebuilt:

They may not even know how to remanufacture it/they may not do it right and yhou might end up doing the work twice and the second time wont be covered I think. If you want to do it once and not have any problems for a long time then pay for it once and pay alot.

Nissan Remanufactured: They remamanufacture and replace all internals and ony use the bell housing which is aluminum.

They have a warrenty I think

Overall its just the right way to go and your car will thank you.

either way I hope what ever you choose works out for you.


maxnix
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heatherin951 wrote:please tell me why I shouldnt purchase a rebuilt locally?
Because at the end of one year when it starts to fail, you will be very sorry you spent the same money on labor as required to put in a Nissan remaufactured one. Most locals are only partially rebuilt. Big difference between a dedicated factory line and a technician that is trained on the unit and rebuilds them repeatedly every year with new or factory recontioned parts and a guy guessing in some shop and not doing everything that needs to be done.

He'll have no clue about the rear main bearing seal. He'll use the orginal now varnished solenoids. He will not measure the parts he doesn't replace to see if they are in tolerance. Some after market parts meet or exceed Nissan quality, most don't. The ones that do are more expensive.

Call IoS and tell them you are from NICO and need to know.

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heatherin951
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What is IoS??

remember this thread is "forgive my ignorance"

maxnix
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heatherin951 wrote:What is IoS??
http://www.infinitipartsusa.com

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heatherin951
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I emailed Wes pics of my Q. Hopefully he will post them here for me soon. <<<<<happy friday

Q45tech
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Local rebuilders DO NOT have a transmission dyno to test their work nor do they include a new TC and valve body in their basic price.

When they get it apart suddenly they tell you oh you need a new TC $500 for a remanned and a new valve body [$1200] or just rely on the short warranty to say so sorry pay us more to try again.

Dealers use JATCO remanns from a Tenneesse plant that services every dealer in US...........every transmission is totally rebuilt and dyno tested.

$2000 plus freight and core return freight and refundable core charge is the outlay.

We have changed hundreds of trannys and no dealer units have failed in less than 5 years or 60k most last 100-130k.

Remember to use chemicals to flush the lines and in rad heat exchanger of metall fillings.

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dusred
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Pics:



Very nice Q. It's very similar to mine .

Not to be the devils advocate or anything here but just so you know everyone on here are OEM freaks. . . which is a good thing cause OEM is the best .

I think a rebuilt transmission (non OEM) isn't that bad of an idea as long as you a) go to a reputable shopb) get an EXACT quote before work startsc) make sure they have an XXX mile warranty on their work.

Also a new OEM Rebuilt transmission will way outlast the car so it isn't necessary IMO.

Also consider just a used transmission (yes, I know the flames are coming) with low miles and a warranty. You can get a used transmission for under $1000. I once found one for $400.

Good luck on whatever you decide to do.

Just make sure you got your azz covered before you do anything that isn't OEM.


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Infinitiguy19
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^I don'tknow why but those pics remind me of the real Knight Rider 86 Trans-am

But yea I forgot about a used transmission I mean if you can find a NICO user or anyone that has the first gen transmission with a first gear start comp wouldnt be bad if you can get a good deal I would say $1000 installed is a fair price to pay

maxnix
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dusred wrote:Not to be the devils advocate or anything here but just so you know everyone on here are OEM freaks. . . which is a good thing cause OEM is the best .

I think a rebuilt transmission (non OEM) isn't that bad of an idea as long as you a) go to a reputable shopb) get an EXACT quote before work startsc) make sure they have an XXX mile warranty on their work.

Also a new OEM Rebuilt transmission will way outlast the car so it isn't necessary IMO.

Also consider just a used transmission (yes, I know the flames are coming) with low miles and a warranty. You can get a used transmission for under $1000. I once found one for $400.
Nice car!

I think the above is precisely why you want an OEM Nissan remanufactured one. Peace of mind and realiability is worth a fortune.

In the long run, the Nissan is the least expensive. One repeat removal and install will kill any local rebuild savings. A used one is someone else's problem and sheer gamb|ing. A locally rebuilt one is too much money for too little in skill, components and guarantee.

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heatherin951
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Isn't she pretty? Yay, I'm glad I get to show her to you guys.Thank you Dusred for posting them for me.

This has been such a learning experience. This site is great, and so are all of you guys!

There is still more to come since the problem isn't resolved yet.At least I can say I certainly know some things about my coolest car ever.


xerexabante
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Heather, why don't you try this before you change your transmission. I know I will be bashed by someone here but I attest to this on my personal experiences. Get some LUCAS transmission addetive for the transmission, and it works. I own a shop here in Las Vegas and have had personal and costumers use this product and saved their trannies, also recommended by my transmission guys. hope this will work for you. I used it on my cars before and saved me from getting a new transmission.

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goody90q45
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xerexabante wrote:.....I know I will be bashed by someone here but I attest to this on my personal experiences. Get some LUCAS transmission addetive for the transmission, and it works.......
On my 94Q with 150k miles after a chemical transmission flush and filter change I still had rough shifts and slippage. A week after adding a bottle of Lucas my transmission shifted like new and still does over a year later. On my 90Q with 114k miles of 2nd gear starts (not any more) I have smooth shifts but torque converter shudder at 35 and 45 mph. Lucas came again to the rescue. The 35 mph shudder is gone and the 45 mph shudder is much improved.

Give it a few days to work and you will see at least some improvement. No bashing here. I highly recommend it despite what any lab reports might say.

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heatherin951
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does it matter that after a drain and fill with new gasket and filter, i added a bottle of slick50..this was a month ago. can I still add the "Lucas"?

maxnix
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heatherin951 wrote:does it matter that after a drain and fill with new gasket and filter, i added a bottle of slick50..this was a month ago. can I still add the "Lucas"?
None of that is recommended by this board in general.

The only ATF modifier recommended is Lube Guard Red. Drain and refill is not an ATF exchange, rather it is just a dilution of contaminated ATF.

If the transmission is not shifting properly, either the fluid is incorrect or expired, or the there is a mechanical or electronic fialure.

Better to fix it then trust in some snake oil solution.


Modified by maxnix at 10:13 AM 9/20/2008

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heatherin951
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I understand that.

I was looking to find what may have been in the pan or the filter that day. Wasn't prepared to have the torque converter "sucked out" that day. LOL . Ok, so I don't have the proper terminology

maxnix
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No, you basically do. The ATF in the TC is pushed out in a mechanical exchange, which is one reason it is superior to a drain and refill.

Personally, if I were you, I would save to replace the transmission as you could easliy expend 25% of the cost fiddling around with it and end up with the same worn transmission or worse.

xerexabante
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At this point you probably add anything just to slavage the transmission and make it ast until you can save more money for an OE rebuilt transmission. Try the LUCAS it might take a day or so to mix in and work.

Like I said I attest to this stuff. I own an autmotive shop for 16 years and have 100% repeat buisness. My guys don't stand out side the street and hold a $19.99 oil change manager special.

I don't care if someone says only LUBE GUARD. To each his own recommendation.

maxnix
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xerexabante wrote:Try the LUCAS it might take a day or so to mix in and work.
If it really did anything but gum up the works, why would it take two days to be effective? Hmmm.......

Q45tech
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Always a good thing to test the viscosity of additives before you put them in.Think long and hard about things like Motor Honey, or transmission or Power Steering Syrup. Things that won't pour in cold weather if your local temperature drops below 50F in winter.

What works in S. Texas, Florida and S. Cal may turn into a hard brick in other states.

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heatherin951
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Okay you guys. Do I eenie meenie miney moe and choose which of you to believe?LOL. More opinions?

BTW, I totally appreciate every bit of wisdom each of you share.Did you all see her pretty pics?

maxnix
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Yes, and that is why you should quit fiddling and fix it!

This is not a beauty contest! Q45tech is responsible for 98% of the valid information on this site. Heed his words or auger in.

Leave the polling to the politicians. Your car doesn't care who you believe, only if you do the right thing.

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heatherin951
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Oh stop it!

I didn't realize the rules were as you just stated. Pardon me for wanting to be friendly....sheeeesh!

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Jesda
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*sigh* Fond memories of my first Q.

maxnix
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heatherin951 wrote:Oh stop it!

I didn't realize the rules were as you just stated. Pardon me for wanting to be friendly....sheeeesh!
Being friendly is good! Being stupid is not good for your car!

This Forum is a great place to get help and information for the concerned owner.

If you just want some attention and want to muck about, may I suggest General Chat? Lot's of attention junkies over there!

It's your fate, so go for it. Good luck! We've done all we can.

What did Dorothy Parker say?

I know it's in a previous post.


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