Forged Sleeves KA24ET

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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LT_Z
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I am having forged sleeves (ductile iron) installed into my KA24E (t) The rings i have are the ones that come with KA24.com ROSS pistons, they are the standard Total Seal ring set. Will these be OK against the hardened sleeves ?


sxseguy
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Yeah, the rings will work, but who the hell is sleeving that thing for you? I've never seen that done on a KA before. Let us know how it turns out.

andrave
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yeah, me neither... why are you having it sleeved? unless you bored the hell out of it I can't imagine having problems with the block.

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LT_Z
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Yeah, the block was 10 over already, I wanted to clean bore another 10 and didnt want a 20 over, the thing is now with the forged sleeves the combustion chamber is sleeved (except head) and I can confidently run 30+psi :) the thing was the guys sleeving want to make sure the rings are 'compatible" ? i dunno , so i said i would check it out.

14.5drift
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good god man, why did it need another 10? Did you pop some thin?

sxseguy
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Post pics of the sleeved setup for us to see before you button everything up.

j-z
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the rings will work. there are alot of honda guys running iron sleeves with those rings.im glad i dont have to worry about sleeving anymore.

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LT_Z
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no its a fresh build my first KA-T but definitely not my first turbo nissan ! ;) But Im shootin for about 550RWHP, i got JWT figurin the MAF/ECU combo right now and i got t66 on the way ! Im starting to get impatient ! I will take some pics of the sleeved block and the rotating assembly, Im having the crank cut and knife edged, and Nitrate coated, I got the ROSS forgies and the Pauter Rods, ARP head & Main studs so she should hold together if i can keep the fuel correct ; )

SHIEF
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Hmm, I guess I'm not understanding why you would sleeve an iron block. I know you said it was .10 over or whatever but why not just get another block then o-ring it. That will hold 30 psi no problem and be cheaper than sleeves. No offense or anything.

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LT_Z
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Well cuz i really didnt have another block, and i figured it would be nice touch plus im getting the sleeves for like $49 a piece so its not all that much more and it will be way stronger. I am considering o ringing but im hearing alot of conflicting stuff so im not sure.

SHIEF
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Ahh I see. It's all in who does the machine work for you, don't skimp out on the cheapest guy.

02_silver_wagon
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LT_Z wrote:no its a fresh build my first KA-T but definitely not my first turbo nissan ! ;) But Im shootin for about 550RWHP, i got JWT figurin the MAF/ECU combo right now and i got t66 on the way ! Im starting to get impatient ! I will take some pics of the sleeved block and the rotating assembly, Im having the crank cut and knife edged, and Nitrate coated, I got the ROSS forgies and the Pauter Rods, ARP head & Main studs so she should hold together if i can keep the fuel correct ; )


I'm wondering why your going Nitrate coated instead of cryo? And the turbo, have you heard of full races t67/t3 with a stage 5 wheel? I don't know if it would be better, just a thought. 1bad180sx from freshalloy.com is running one on his sr, maybe you could ask him about it.

dareo
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Car: 1993 Q45, 1989 240sx

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If your going for a real KA24E-T and shooting for 550whp, might i suggest standalone management? I mean JWT can only do so much, and the $$$ for retunes? I dunno, i just think JWT is over priced.

what is your opinion on stock rods? are you gonna use your old ones, new OEM rods, or some awesome $700 rods?

Good luck with your KA-T, i wanna see the results!

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LT_Z
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Yeah the thing with JWT is its pulg and play and also unplug and play (SMOG) and they are going to tune the ECU in my car on their dyno so im kinda likin that. Im going with the Pauter Rods. They are beutifull.

No i have not heard of the t67/t3 stage5 how much HP will it flow ? and how is spool ? Im Leaning toward the Turbonetics t66 kinda smaller AR but spools quick and flows plenty !

dareo
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Car: 1993 Q45, 1989 240sx

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SMOG--fine point. I'm so glad we dont have to smog cars in my state. I just gotta find a crooked emissions guy, and its done.

Will a KA-T pass smog, or do you guys have to tear it all down and go back to perfectly stock every two years?

trpower7
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Ummm, no, it's not "unplug and play". You try to put a stock ECU back in and your car won't make it out of the driveway. Hell, it probably won't even start. And with the JWT being default uber-rich and having uber-timing retard don't even think to try to pass a sniffer test. And a JWT is far from CARB legal. If you're thinking about emissions, you're kind of screwed.

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LT_Z
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Umm yes it is. The difference between removing an entire engine management system and removing or swapping an ECU, MAF, & Injectors, is quite substantial. Im not going to try and pass smog on the JWT ECU and My ECU will be dyno tuned at JWT so hopefully i can get them to tune a nicer A/F than their off the shelf ECU programs, either way they are going to tune me to 550RWHP even if its on the rich side....I dont think im screwed at all.

I will have to change manifolds and swap the previous mentioned stuff and yes my car will pass SMOG with flying colors !

trpower7
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So you are going to totally revert your car to stock everytime you have to pass SMOG. Just take EVERYTHING back to stock, plug up a stock ECU and run it. What happens if you're in Cali and get stoppped and a referree sees your engine? To totally revert your car back to stock even on the times you have to go get tested is rough. And if you're doing some internal work liek changing C/R it will run like crap on the stock ECU. However, if you want to change it all back I guess it's up to you.........

02_silver_wagon
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LT_Z wrote:Yeah the thing with JWT is its pulg and play and also unplug and play (SMOG) and they are going to tune the ECU in my car on their dyno so im kinda likin that. Im going with the Pauter Rods. They are beutifull.

No i have not heard of the t67/t3 stage5 how much HP will it flow ? and how is spool ? Im Leaning toward the Turbonetics t66 kinda smaller AR but spools quick and flows plenty !


I emailed geoff at full-race.com and this is what he had to say.

Hey Bryan --

thanks for your interest in our products. Our t67 turbo actually uses thelatest revision of the older style t66. This turbo spools faster, pushesmore, coler air at equivalent boost levels and also costs less becuase it iscoming from garrett, not turbonetics. We do not have any compressor mapsonline but i can get them for you if need be. The most we have seen is 618whp at 28 psi on a 2 liter integra GSR motor that was built. At 21 psi itdid 536 whp. Also, on a 100% stock gsr motor at 5 psi we saw 287 whp and at11 psi we saw 354 whp. At 30 psi this turbo will have no problem at allmaking 550 whp.

The turbo starts to spool around 4200 and hits full boost by 4800. Howeverthis is not on a 2.4 liter motor, rather a 1.9L. A 2.4 will spool much muchsooner.

If you have any other questions feel free to give us a call at 480-830-1522.Thanks

-geoff

I'm still wondering why your going Nitrate coated instead of cryo?

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LT_Z
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Hey 02Wagon did they say how much it was or what the specs were ? sounds like a nice turbo id like to check it out some more !

02_silver_wagon
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go to http://www.full-race.com

You can email them of call them.

Can you answer my question about cryo vs nitride?

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LT_Z
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I didnt really look into the cryo, the guy thats doing my crankwork recommended the nitride i guess its what hes familiar with. What do you know about the cryo ?

02_silver_wagon
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From what I understand Cryo and Nitride do basicaly the same thing. But Nitride only coats 13 (a really small amount) microns thick and cryo does the whole thing through.

14.5drift
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That turbo should spool around 3300 with the 2.4, wich is better than a t04

Makes me wonder what the hell xs was thinking when selecting a turbo

02_silver_wagon
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Actualy I was thinking full boost by 3600-3800rpm. But eitherway.

14.5drift
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Yeah, begin spooling by 3300 and hit full boost by 3800


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