For those with S13 redtops and DCC in their S14

[devlmaycry]

Ok, so I finally got my A/C recharged after I installed the A/C adapter brackets from Codyace. However, since I have the S14 DCC and a S13 Redtop not all of the A/C wiring was as friendly as I would have liked it. The A/C Y/B wire that turns the A/C on and off worked, and upped my idle, but the compressor wasn't cycling. I had read several post on how to splice these other wires and bypass the ECU and all that jazz when I finally just decided to look at the FSM for the US S14 and the euro S14 with DCC.

After doing some reviewing I noticed the DCC triple pressure switch had different wiring, being that the DCC controls the system more than the ECU unlike the US model. At least that what it looks like to me with the diagram. After rewiring my triple pressure switch I still had no A/C. I then discovered that my ECU wasn't switching the G/Y wires for the A/C relay. That was an easy fix just spliced the Y/B wire to the A/C relay wire coming from the F3 connector that runs to the triple pressure switch. After that the A/C works just fine and the triple pressure switch still has the control over my A/C system!

The A/C cooling fan is ran through my old Fog Light relay and controlled by the triple pressure switch. Looking back on it I could have just had it leach off the A/C relay, but didn't think about it at the time. My rad. fan is a G20 being controlled by my Dakota Digital Fan Controller. It has digital temp and display and an A/C input so when it receives 12v+ from the A/C fan relay it turns the rad fan on too.

I had to go through so much trouble because one of the previous owners who installed the sr20det redtop removed the entire A/C system and the wiring for it was not hooked up and was kind of ghetto in general from the install. Though I have cleaned and fixed a lot of the spaghetti around the ECU.

Anyways here's the diagram I hacked together the shows what all I had to do to get my DCC and A/C working.I changed all the wiring colors to the US FSM colors, minus the DCC Y/B wire. I hope this pic helps anyone else in a similar boat as me, and if I posted anything wrong let me know!

[MR.chris]

Sorry for the dumb question but what does DCC stand for? I will be installing my AC soon. (i hope)

[tx240s14]

Digital Climate Control?

[devlmaycry]

Sorry for any confusion guys, DCC does stand for Digital Climate Control!

[PyR0NiAk]

Nice write-up.

[MR.chris]

I would love to see a few pics. What year/generation of Silvia did you get the DCC from???

[devlmaycry]

It's the S14 gen DCC. I'll post a few pics up today.

Ok, Pics are posted uptop. The vent temp with the IR therm. was around 46 at 700rpms. Around 1200 rpms it's closer to 40 and 32-33 while driving, according to the IR therm. I don't have a regular thermometer to hang in the vent to get the air temp, but if it's cooling the vent to that much it shouldn't be too far off. I know it can take a minute for the sytem to cool down the car.

I also did a temp check on the condensor with the both fans going like they are supposed to now that the Dakota Digital is running the rad fan in conjuction with the condenssor fan its temp dropped from 150 at idle to in the 90's. If there's any A/C techs looking at this feel free to chime in and let me know if my numbers seem ok!