For the low riders (sway bar links)

[Ilya]

This is for the guys who are lowered (most likely on coils or air).

WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH MY CAR?

When I first lowered the car, the stock sway bar links lasted like 30kmi (after being on the car the entire life probably before that). Since I got rid of the stock ones, I have tried 3 other brands (including new stock ones) and they only last 5-8kmi before starting to knock, etc. The current set is starting to make noise again.

I've done alignments, I've changed the sway bar bushings...and I think the last time I went to have my coilovers looked at for noise I had the guy re-level the car.

I'm getting close to ditching the coilovers and going static drop with Espelir's...it's annoying as hell to keep swapping these (although I get them for free because they keep failing within the warranty period).

Any ideas?

[mexillis]

Ive never changed mine since owning the car. How do you know if they are bad? I have had a pop noise a few times only when turning right and on slight inclines. It never pops all the time and it's usually in the colder times of the year. Which brands have you used already? I have smashed my sway bar bushings and sway bar plenty of times though... Not planning to replace those bushings again.

[Ilya]

Ive never changed mine since owning the car. How do you know if they are bad? I have had a pop noise a few times only when turning right and on slight inclines. It never pops all the time and it's usually in the colder times of the year. Which brands have you used already? I have smashed my sway bar bushings and sway bar plenty of times though... Not planning to replace those bushings again.

I've used Moog, Raysbestos, and OEM if I recall.

I know they are bad because I've learned the sound...more of a pop/clunk when going over bumps (straight, while turning, inclines, no inclines, 2mph or 40mph, etc.). Whenever I replace them, the sound goes away for a little while only to return. Rinse, repeat lol. I do also have some coilover spring binding I think (at full lock to the right - not sure about the left)...have to have my shop (I don't want to mess with them myself) fix that.

Again, the parts are free (due to warranty since they last so short), but it's just annoying. Easy to install, but again, annoying lol. I have a lift and can't be bothered.

For those that don't remember, I'm on BC's.

[svard75]

Woa you have spring binding?! What did you do to setup preload? You said at full lock to the right. Do you mean while turning the steering wheel all the way to the right you hear a pop? That might be your steering knuckle. Check the boots to see if they are broken and grease leaked out.

if OEM links are going bad quickly it likely means they are either too short or too long. Try lifting your car on the hoist then lift so the wheels drop and watch as the sway bar lowers with the wheels. There would be some torsion that occurs. When the car is lower than factory spec the bar might be either too far apart or to close together. I don't recommend the open ball type either since they tend to make noises as well. It looks cool for stored cars or show cars but Daily Drivers should be sealed grease type.

[Ilya]

Woa you have spring binding?! What did you do to setup preload? You said at full lock to the right. Do you mean while turning the steering wheel all the way to the right you hear a pop? That might be your steering knuckle. Check the boots to see if they are broken and grease leaked out.

if OEM links are going bad quickly it likely means they are either too short or too long. Try lifting your car on the hoist then lift so the wheels drop and watch as the sway bar lowers with the wheels. There would be some torsion that occurs. When the car is lower than factory spec the bar might be either too far apart or to close together. I don't recommend the open ball type either since they tend to make noises as well. It looks cool for stored cars or show cars but Daily Drivers should be sealed grease type.

The performance shop that tuned my suspension set the preload...I don't understand coilovers so I let them mess with it. I just did the basic install (bolted them in).

Last I knew (within the last couple of weeks), my knuckles were fine (they were also replaced a few months ago). That kind of stuff I'm meticulous on. It's 100% spring binding.

As for my links...they are the closed grease kind. But that's interesting to know about the torsion...

[svard75]

Shoot. Spring binding is bad. You'll have to release the extra pressure and reset preload. To do that raise the car to maximum extension of the shock. Next release the bottom spring mounts until the spring is loose. Then tighten the first bottom mount until the spring doesn't move (check that the spring is properly sitting in the isolators). Using the spanner wrench lighten the lower mount 1.5 turns after its tight by hand. Then tighten the lock nut and perform the final tightening. That is general preload. It it's the rear spring binding it's actually the shock being too low for the spring. Readjust the springs mount.

[Ilya]

It's definitely the front. And I was told it wasn't *that* big a deal. It's just that the spring 'pops' when the wheel turns at full turn. This only happens at slow speeds, because I don't know about you, but I'm not cutting the wheel all the way at 80mph lol.

Perhaps I'll tackle it when I get the car on the lift to change the oil and light bulb. Or I might just wait and go see the shop again and have them check out the sway bar setup as well.

With full time work and school, I honestly can't really be bothered. Was just looking for some possibilities of what could be causing such premature damage to my sway bar links.

[TDot]

I recently thought my strut top mounts were bad...because that's what mechanics seem to like to blame when you here knocking over bumps after you change struts, turned out to be something else....anyway, in my research on it I came across an example of a bad strut mount causing the spring to "pop" on turns. So the bad mount might actually be causing your links to go bad by ways of the spring.

[Ilya]

I recently thought my strut top mounts were bad...because that's what mechanics seem to like to blame when you here knocking over bumps after you change struts, turned out to be something else....anyway, in my research on it I came across an example of a bad strut mount causing the spring to "pop" on turns. So the bad mount might actually be causing your links to go bad by ways of the spring.

I could see that happening, but the strut mount is part of the coilover in this case and last time I emailed BC (I originally emailed them when this first started happening 50kmi ago) they said it's not the coilover but the links...and that's what always fixes the issue. I do see what you're saying though, but I doubt BC would give me new top mounts for the coilovers...and if I'm going to have to buy new ones I might as well go to a static drop .

[TDot]

Also, when you think about it, most mechanics will tell you the mounts will go bad around 50K. At least that's why everyone was pushing me to get new mounts with my issue. And that's where you said your issue started going bad. I don't know how long these bars are supposed to last, but I'm going on 90K and haven't changed it. Anyway, I'm far from an expert on this whole lowering thing.

Fwiw, my opinion, go static. For all the issues you seem to have with these things, it just seems to be way more headache than what they're worth. This makes me glad that I went with springs instead. Before the rest of the coil guys jump up in arms, I know this isn't guaranteed to happen to everyone.

[Ilya]

Yeah I might bite the bullet and change it up in the spring.