fn01rc 17x9 - rear pull needed?

[bcar240]

I just got a set of 17x9 +20 FN01Rc wheels, mounted with 235/40-17 tires, I have been test fitting them, and I was wondering if a fender roll is absolutely needed in the rear as well at the front? To tell the truth, and anyone with an S13 chassis and looking at these wheels at least give this some thought, it REALLY needs a fender pull to look right, if I would have known they would have stuck out THIS much I would have gone with a narrower wheel. There is a good inch to inch and a half of the wheel sticking out past the top of the wheel well, very noticeable. But it is a sweet wheel, and I am willing to sacrifice until I can find a shop that pulls (I hear S13 rear fenders like to buckle under pulling if you don't do it right.)

[onosqv]

anyone with an S13 chassis and looking at these wheels at least give this some thought, it REALLY needs a fender pull to look right, if I would have known they would have stuck out THIS much I would have gone with a narrower wheel.

Um, you just answered your own question........

Anyway, I'm running 225/40 on a 18x9 in rear - roll, yes otherwise you rub, unless you have mad high suspension. The only pulling really needed to be done can be had from side effects of rolling (i.e. rolling it will pull the fender slightly).

If you increase camber, you don't have to pull as much. When i went from -1 degree to -2 degrees, the wheel got tucked in about another .5" or so.

The fronts are relatively the same - I can't say tho bcs I have wide fenders in front.

[bcar240]

Hmm, I was looking at it and I just wasn't seeing anywhere it could really rub. I mean if the suspension compressed a lot it would hit the edge of the fender around the wheel well, but it didn't look like a roll would get that out of the way. Actually, with the test fit I did, I couldn't even get the front tires to rub. I do have a high susension (stock,) I was planning on upgrading that this winter, but that damn curb forced me to change some priorities. Where would one expect the front and rear tires to rub when going to these wheels? I am planning on getting a roll anyway, but I just wanted to know. Thanks!

[McRussellPants]

A) You are either monster gapping or don't have enough camber. I'm sinking 17x9 +10 fronts with 3.5 camber.

B) The rear just needs a halfass roll... I clear 245/40s fine and my lip is at like a 45 degree angle.

In conclusion... Lower your car or add more camber. done and done.

[SmithSR]

^^yes but neither of those help driveability.The reason we own this car for Christ's sake!

[McRussellPants]

My car drives just fine... or it would if I would get off my *** and put some coolant in it.

[SmithSR]

^^Roger that. I need a pitwork battery or charge my old battery just to get it from storage.. Sad bad weather...

[chmercer]

when you say the wheel sticks out 1 - 1.5 inches is that in the air or on the ground? because if you are testing in the air then that is going to be innacurate.

for the rear what i would suggest is

put your car up on jackstands in the back

unbolt the shock from the spindle (single 17mm bolt)

at this point the suspension will be loose and droopy from unbolting the shock

stick a jack under the tire and slowly jack up the wheel to check for travel, jack it up as high as it will go before it starts to rub, you can also put some paint on areas on the inside of the fender well that you think will rub, the paint will make a mark on the tire showing you where it will contact.

i hope that helps / makes sense

honestly you do not need a fender pull in the rear with a 235 on a 9 if you run a little camber (2ish), but you will for sure need to roll them.

[bcar240]

I am having it aligned on Tuesday, I will tell them to set -2 camber. It sticks out that far when it is on the ground, I will take some pictures if I get around to it. It doesn't look as weird now that I have gotten used to it. I hope between the camber and the roll it will be a bit closer to being flush. I am gonna have a family friend who works in a body shop look at it, he might be able to professionally roll it for free, which gives me no reason not to go ahead.

[bcar240]

Hey, I gotta bring this back up, lol. I finally got the car back and have been testing it a bit. The mechanics set it to -2 camber at my request, but afterward said it would "drastically wear the tire out, like 4x faster." I know that tuning the camber like that will make the inner side of the tire wear more, but will it really just torch the tires like he suggests? Also, there is some pretty bad vibration even after the alignment, seems to be coming from one corner. The guys at the shop said all they could do was set the car back to stock camber and see if that fixes the problem. One of the mechanics said that one of the new wheels I had put on may have been out of round. Just wonderind if anyone has ever had something like this happen before or successfully diagnosed these symptoms.

One kinda random q too. If you just drop the tie rod end shank out of the knuckle, do you have to have it re-aligned? I was pressed for time and had to put this all together before the dust boots for the tie rod ends arrived, and I know running without boots on the street is not a good idea.

Thanks again guys!

[chmercer]

the camber wont kill your tires. toe does far more harm to tires than camber. bmws and 350zs and othe cars run close to 2 degrees camber on stock alignment, its not much.

un bolting the tie rod from the knuckle wont alter your alignment

you got the wheels/tires balanced right? that would obviously attribute for some vibration. other than that im not really sure since you said the car is alligned. maybe somone else has smart ideas.

[Nismochick240]

mmm i'm looking at a set of these rims for my hatch. I'm going 5lug this summer. they are 17x9s in the rear-- SO I will prolly have to roll the fenders? Where can you get this done at? . . . body shop?

[chmercer]

your driveway with a baseball bat, jack handle, hammer, insert blunt object. all you do is tap up the fender lip with a hammer, easiest way.

[bcar240]

Ya, I am thinking that the shop is just trying to cover itself by saying, "your custom specs are why it's acting funny." I didn't realize until I left that they didn't give me a printout of the alignment specs, I would have really been interested to see that and will be going back to see if they have it. Could the caster possibly do something like this? Because you normally can't change that on a stock 240, I don't know if they checked it or not (I added SPL tension rods.) I left specific instructions for them to do so, but not sure if they did it. At the moment, I am thinking it is either that or the wheel being slightly out of round, the mechanic said you could see it when it was spinning on the balancer.

[chmercer]

if a wheel is out of round then yeah that will deffinitley cause vibration, but you can usually balance it with wheel weights unless it is super bent or somthing. on the caster just have them set it at 6.5 or so. thats stock i think. when i get alignments i always go back to the rack in case the tech dosent know how to do somthing with the adjustable links.

[Eddie]

You could get that one wheel that's out of round ride matched on a hunter 9700 (all 4 would be best). This will match the highest spot of the tire with the lowest spot of the rim wich will make the wheel/tire assembly have less runout. Even if you don't have it ride matched, the hunter 9700 can tell you how much runout the wheel has and how much road force variation the tire has to help you diagnose your vibe problems.

Another cheaper thing that might also help is to get some hub centric rings so the wheels will be more centered on the hub when they are bolted up.