flywheel weight comparison

[tyrannix]

just installed the giken twin plate, because rare trick still hasnt received their EMS stuff

so i took out all the flywheel related junk i have and weighed it all

-OS giken twin plate full assembly: 27.2 lbs-flywheel alone 16.4 lbs - 1 piece billet steel

-Jun 8 bolt CA18DET flywheel 12.2 lbs - 1 piece billet steel-Tomei 6 bolt CA20 flywheel 14.6 lbs - 1 piece billet steel

and what everyones been waiting for

STOCK CA18DET:-full assembly 40.6 lbs-flywheel alone 27 lbs-pressure plate 10.8 lbs

that leaves about 2.2 lbs for a stock clutch

and a jun flywheel with stockish pressure plate and clutch disc(added them up, didnt physically weigh this)25.2 lbsthis is what most people are going to end up with, which is a 15.4 lb savings overall than using the stock flywheel

so there it is, enjoy

AND REMEMBER TO GET SHORTER BOLTS OR A SPACER/WASHERS, THE NORMAL LENGTH ONES CAN BOTTOM OUT AND WRECK YOUR CRANK WITHOUT A SPACER

CJ

edit> i also have an SR flywheel for some reason or other, its just sleightly bigger in diameter, and alot thinner, ill post up its weight tomorrow for comparison (done in the garage for today)

edit> i think i tossed that sr flywheel ^ in the trash. if i find it again, ill weigh it (or sometime in the future, maybe expirament with it)

edit> this is all on CA stuff, the stock is for a stock CA18DET, when i get a break from the cars, ill weigh the stock KAE stuff too

Edit> today, wednesday Oct 25 2006, my Jun flywheel arrived Brand spankin new.i ordered it from Rare Trick on June 5th 2006. Drew takes awhile (roughly 5 months for this), but he Will get your part +1 for customer service (he emailed me and let me know what was going on whenever anything changed or status updates.. like when he had enough stuff to do the EMS order)

edit>added pic the one on teh right is the crank that came out of my engine after i used regular flywheel bolts for a lightweight flywheel, not pretty, but that was the only damage.dropped off the new flywheel and crank pulley to be balanced with the new crank, should have them back soon

Modified by tyrannix at 12:19 PM 10/27/2006
Modified by tyrannix at 5:28 PM 10/27/2006

[float_6969]

I'm pretty sure my 8 bolt JUN flyhweel was around 11-13lbs. I wanna say the UPS shipping weight was 13lbs...

[knx2]

Is that the stock weight for the KA24de engine or the CA?

[teddy]

I'm pretty sure my 8 bolt JUN flyhweel was around 11-13lbs. I wanna say the UPS shipping weight was 13lbs...

Mine was about 13.

[float_6969]

Is that the stock weight for the KA24de engine or the CA?

We're talking about flywheel weights for the CA engine...

[JDMSIL80]

Does anyone know the weight of Toda flywheel?

[teddy]

Does anyone know the weight of Toda flywheel?

5kg/11.02 lbs.

[tyrannix]

updated original post, received my Jun flywheel today, and it weighs 12.2 lbs

CJ

[davidricardo86]

I was also considering a Toda or Jun Flywheel as they seem to have the lightest wieght and highest quality. I remember reading about them, but does anyone remember if they were one piece billet or three piece, etc. Either seems like a worthy candidate and the Toda one can be had with a pressure plate & clutch disc. I wonder what type though. All ive read is "abestos free" type disc.

[tyrannix]

the jun is 1 piece billet steel (i updated the original post with descriptions, ill take pics sometime here soon)

CJ

[nocwage]

So why did you ditch the OS Giken for this?

[DjLiquid]

Now here's my 2 questions.

Will the SR one work with a CA engine

Can someone hook me up with a Tomei/Toda flywheel?

TY =D

[tyrannix]

So why did you ditch the OS Giken for this?

i didnt 'ditch' the giken

this engine is stock block, stock head except HKS 256/8.5 cams a tomei 1.5mm MHG and ARP head studs

this engine isnt going to be pushing enough torque to warrent a twin plate, i didnt want to put it on at all, except i got antsy waiting for the new JUN (i traded a jun for teh giken)

the giken will go on the next CA18 build (the next engine i build)

built ca18 shopping list price item 110 bore block 83.5 200 prep block 572 cp 83.5 pistons+rings 784 pauter rods (maybe) 100 arp main studs 80 balance rotating assembly 300 tomei metal head gasket 150 high perf oil pump 130 new water pump 200 head prep 150 valve job 225 tomei valve springs 400 cam regrinds 250 adjustable cam gears 100 arp head studs120 power enterprise timing belt300 lightweight pulley set30 add tooth wheel to crank pulley200 magnesium valve covers50 bearings300 injectors150 FPR75 walbro fuel pump

4976 total

plumbing800 custom plenum with ITBs1000 fullrace tompount manifold1000 ballbearing t3/t04e type turbo100 BOV

2900 totals

this will be long after i have moved, and settled in teh new house and job

then it will go into my s13, that and probably convert the US body to RHD, and it will be 'done' engine-wise

then once the s13 is no longer a project, the ae86 will become the project/testbed and i get to drop any and every engine into it for fun .... like teh CA18 thats in my s13 now.... and the KA24E that came with the US body... and the 7MGE from the cressida, when i drop a 7MGTE in that... and the ca20det project, that will go in the AE86 too

so yeah... but also that the 9 bolts that hold the pres plate on the flywheel (on teh giken) are mostly stripped and gross... as they are really torx bolts... and for some reason i thought they were normal allen head bolts... so im waiting for a new set of bolts on that too

edit>

and i forgot who, but someone was working on using SR flywheels, and ive only seen tomei flywheels in teh 6 bolt (ca20) variety... and personally, ive never seen a toda flywheel, just the clutch package... unless i listed it in that otehr thread. i think that was just the clutch package

[tyrannix]

added pic to original post

[float_6969]

Dangit, you've got me worried about my crank now...

[tyrannix]

im going to get the specs for exactly what size bolt i need from my machine guys, then order that spec from ARP.

if you/others are interested, i can order extras (im going to be ordering at least 3 sets worth for myself) or just give you the part # i get from arp

after all ive been through dealing with this, im not messing around with maybes on the bolts (then they should be completly reusable too)

CJ

altho, the crank is still good, polished and balanced beside that, so they said i could grind down the bulging part, and helicoil (or timesert, because helicoil dowsnt make a 1 pitch kit) then it will be usable again
Modified by tyrannix at 5:31 PM 10/27/2006

[RyanAwesome]

out of curiosity who makes the high perf oil pump and magnesium valve covers you have on your list?

[tyrannix]

the valve covers, i already have. got em from a guy who imports all kinds of goodies from japan, they were an extra set (never used) from an open wheel cars backup stock. NO CLUE who would make em.

the oil pump i dont have yet, i want to say topline makes emi remember seeing it on a website somewhere. that price is as close as i can remember, thats just my excel spreadsheet shopping list to collect as i see deals pop up, its color coded what i already have and links to sources for stuff

CJ

[float_6969]

I was wondering if the damage was reparable or not. It doesn't actually look that bad, and I figured all that happened was that it boogered up the threads when you backed it out. That's probably why my flywheel hasn't come flying off yet. I tightened them up once and then haven't removed them.

[tyrannix]

I was wondering if the damage was reparable or not. It doesn't actually look that bad, and I figured all that happened was that it boogered up the threads when you backed it out. That's probably why my flywheel hasn't come flying off yet. I tightened them up once and then haven't removed them.

probably, but watch out when you take em out, the threads are fine going in, but bottoming out like that messed up teh tips, which, yep, you said it. boogered the threads on the way out.

my messed up crank is entirely repairable (so say my machine guys, who have been been building engines forever... 2 brothers, theyve had just this shop open since the mid 80s) just need to grind those bumps flat, and use timeserts to fix teh threads, then it will be good as new. its already balanced, all contact surfaces polished., and ready to go, minus the flywheel mount :\

CJ

[float_6969]

We'll see how it looks when I get around to swapping heads.

[tyrannix]

Ryan, you might be fine.

if your jun is teh same as mine (more than likely) you may not have a problem, or at least it wont be as bad as mine.

it looks like the giken flywheel is alot thinner where it bolts up to the crank. the ARP bolts that my machine guys are ordering are almost the same size as stockers (these are to get the jun mounted) ill get the exact specs when i pick the stuff up, but its ~$14 for a set of 6 direct from arp. i ordered 3 sets, so i have enough for at least 2 engines with some leftovers.

i plan on having 3 CA engines total within the next year or so. the stockish rebuild one that im working now. then the CA20DET project with all stock bit (and i want to borrow somebodys SR t25 and dyno it, just to have some numbers to compare with stock SR numbers and end all debates)

and then the final engine for my s13, the CA18 with parts as i listed up in an earlier post. should be in the 400 neighborhood (and will get extra attention when installing the giken twin plate) everything im doing now is basically a test-fitting. after everythings together, at some point, im going to rebuild teh entire car, overhaulin style. thats when all new bushings, bedliner on the underside, and probably a RHD conversion (OR i might possibly end up just buying another silvia in canada and then stripping that and repainting, to avoid welding firewall, which i would end up having to have somebody else do, or practise a whole lot)

the ca20 will more than likely end up in my ae86, and never even touch teh s13. and be scarey, even in stock form

and the crank is still at the machine shop, the ARP bolts should be arriving on friday or monday, then it will be another day or so for everything to get balanced up, then i pick it up, reinstall, and drop the engine back in the car. then unless something else rediculous happens, i will be able to fire it up, break it in, then install the megasquirt, and injectors (thinking 550s will be plenty for this engine, dont plan on more than 300 to the wheels ever really on this build)

so yeah, theres how everything stands as of now... with less cash to fund (trying to buy a house as soon as i get out, im on med hold now, so my EAS is indefinite so i cant apply for jobs, because i dont know when i can start

CJ

edit> just had a thought about that euro 4port head sitting in my garage. i can use that on the ca20 to make it more 'even' with an SR, they dont have butterflies, but then it wouldnt be as 'junkyard' as i wanted it :shrug
Modified by tyrannix at 1:54 PM 11/2/2006

[float_6969]

I'd put the 4 port on it, as that would make it the most fair comparison possible.

Have you compared the 4 port to the 8 port side-by-side? I aske because I just saw a pic of an intake port of a 4 port yea, and it doesn't actually look like it would flow as well as an 8 port would.

I'd pay to see a flow comparison of the two heads...