Flywheel Resurface Question

Post by **ILikeMy240sx** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

I read in many places that say "Always re-surface your flywheel when replacing the clutch... "

I called the shop that Im getting mine installed (tomorrow)and he said you dont really need to resurface the flywheel unless you fcuked it up really bad.... He said five years hes been working there and he only had to resurface one flywheel that was glazed like a donut (he was a S13 drifter LOL haha)

So is it really necessary or can I just put in the new clutch w/o resurfacing?

Post by **sidewaySilvia** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

Who cares? Just resurface it .. I did it at the shop and it was an ease it took like 5 min if that..

Resurface fly wheel > peace of mind

Post by **ricebike** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

hmm, i've done 2 clutch jobs w/out resurfacing the flywheel on my car... 1st cause i couldn't get the SOB bolts to break loose.2nd time= i did it to change out the rear main seal & the flywheel still looks good <no cracks/glazing/etc>.

just sanded in a circular fashion, brakeclean, & reinstalled it...

Post by **ILikeMy240sx** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

How much does it cost to resurface a flywheel...

The shop said he would have to send it out to a machine shop to have it resurfaced....

Post by **sidewaySilvia** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

Well there I wouldn't know.. I work in nissan service so I have everything at my disposal..

Just make sure the thing isn't glazed, warped , cracked and sand it, brakeclean it(not spelled right) wipe it down and re-install. You will be fine man.

Post by **IveBeenBad** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

it cost me $20

Post by **Zydeco** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

yea, i paid 20 bucks too and it only took 30 or so.

Post by **Chingon** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

i'd say go for it... a resurfaced flywheel won't have that polished finish like used ones do and I bet that helps have more friction w/the organic element.

Post by **Zydeco** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

Your clutch is goin to have better bite on the flywheel w/a resurface then with an old one.

Post by **Chingon** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

-]sTm[-HeavyHips wrote:Your clutch is goin to have better bite on the flywheel w/a resurface then with an old one.

i just said that...

Post by **turtl631** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

where do you guys go to get it done?

Post by **Chingon** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

usually same place that does rotors will do this....I know napa and I think checkers does them over here...

Post by **gumby** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

when i took the flywheel off the bad motor one blot was on tight as hell the rest glided off. i noticed the wear on the teeth was somewhat uneven. whats that mean? is it normal? is the flywheel still good? im an idiot.

Post by **ILikeMy240sx** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

Wear on the teeth (broken teeth n things like that) is no good for a flywheel... Time for an alum flywheel

Post by **gumby** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

no thanks i like my low end torque. besides $400 +$400 id have to do the pulleys. aint happenin. hey is there a universal clutch alignment tool for the s13 or is i specific to each clutch brand? sound stupid but i could get a straight answer at the parts store.

Post by **Onizuka** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

You dont gain torque from having a heavy flywheel. You actually loose power but trade off is that its easier to get the car going from a standstill using the inertia of the disk instead of having to press the gas.

Post by **Ubernoober** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

If you want to correctly install your clutch and not void the warranty, you resurface the flywheel. Its not about "bite", its about properly creaking in the two surfaces with one another. The same reason you are supposed to surface and get a swirl pattern cut on your rotors when you change pads, grooved or not. Make sure that when you get it resurfaced, that they re-create the "step" cut on the flywheel, otherwise it will not clamp correctly and slip relentlessly. Also, when they are done, they should re-install the alignment dowels for you.

An alignment tool should come with the new clutch. If not, you are buying a truly cheapazz kit that I wouldn't put in my car.

Wear on the teeth is perfectly normal. As long as there are no broken teeth and the leading starter engagement area hasn't been pounded to the center of the tooth, it is fine. Also examine your starter, its teeth should look good also.

You guys are apezhit over aluminum flywheels and I just cannot figure out why.

Post by **Ubernoober** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

Also, if he has worked 5 years at the shop, I would have thought your mechanic would have educated himself a little better on this subject, and would treat you with more respect. To recommend saving 20-30 bucks just because he's been lucky for 5 years is giving horrible advice. I will admit that it is generally true, but its like going to the doctor and him saying "well, washing up before I cut you open is how I'm supposed to do it, but I never had a problem in 5 years, so I'll cut you open right now. BTW, if you get an infection, YOU have to pay for it, cuz even though it was my advice, I am not liable for screwups".

Post by **sidewaySilvia** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

Bro, just get the damn thing resurfaced.. Take uber's advice and make sure they do put the "step" in the flywheel for proper engagement..Don't get it done at nissan cause we are charging like $75 to get it done and it will take about an hour..

In reality, this is a 20 min job.. If you get it done at a reputable shop... Alignment tools are not a general tool , they are clutch specific and SHOULD come with every clutch kit.

Post by **BuudWeizErr** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

how could a clutch alignment tool be clutch specific? think about that one for a second. all it does is mimic the input shaft of the transmission. unless the alignment tool is oddly shaped, the will all work and interchange.

Post by **IveBeenBad** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

ChunkiDori wrote:how could a clutch alignment tool be clutch specific? think about that one for a second. all it does is mimic the input shaft of the transmission. unless the alignment tool is oddly shaped, the will all work and interchange.

different shaft diameters :-/

Post by **BuudWeizErr** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

yeah... i'm sure a nissan and oh... a ford have different shaft diameters... but an sr20 act clutch and an sr20 centerforce clutch will use exact same alignment tool.

Post by **gumby** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

hmmm... thanks i didnt know that about the flywheel. still good to have since im fairly new to 5spd. only reason im taking it off is to mount it to the engine stand. i didnt install it so i dont have the tool. figure id get it resurfaced while it out.

rather than start a new thread ill ask here. if the transmission oil is purplish does that mean its gl5 synthetic or what?

Post by **Ubernoober** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

Every oil manufacturer will color their oils however they want, but a quick look points to GL5 generally being light tan and GL4 being reddish and significantly "thinner" feeling.

When he said "clutch specific", I think he meant "application specific".

Post by **gumby** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

ah reddish ok thats sets the mind at ease i didnt know what i had in there thanks.

Post by **sidewaySilvia** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 8:35 am

Ok , been out for a minute here .. Sorry to confuse you chunki. Thanks , uber for clarifying my reply..

Flywheel Resurface Question

Flywheel Resurface Question

Nissan Forums

Infiniti Forums

Datsun Forums

Technical Forums

Classifieds / Marketplace

Nissan Motorsports

General Forums