Flush/Drain transmission Fluids?

[GQM45s]

Anyone know how to flush or drain transmission fluid? I am also curious on what oil you guys would use on you transmission as well.

I am considering Royal Purple or Amsoil right now? Any other Suggestions. I heard RP is really nice on the transmission, smooth transitions into gears, but any experiences out there?

[DeanM45]

I'm curious about this as well as I just rolled over 60K miles.
I am planning on draining the fluid from the pan, removing the pan, replacing/cleaning the intake screen and cleaning the magnets in the pan (I assume they are there on the M).

In the past I have always used the manufacturer's trans fluid as transmissions tend to be very picky about fluid.

I will also use the down time to install the B&M trans fluid cooler that I picked up.

[donnieb83]

Great thread. I'm at 41K and planned on calling the dealer today to setup an appt. Do you have pics of the trans cooler? How hard are they to Install?

[Ilya]

Transcoolers, from my day in the Maxima forums, are a waste unless you are running like 600hp.

As for the fluids, I had the dealer do it last time. Couple hundred for parts and labor to do brake, transmission, power steering, transfer case, etc.

[DeanM45]

No pics but it is just a standard B&M 70268.

Fluid will go to the B&M first and then to the stock in radiator cooler. Install is easy. They have the nylon pieces that slip through the cooler, condenser and radiator--I don't use those. The cooler also comes with metal mounting straps so you can bolt the cooler to the radiator bulkhead. The metal stock cooler lines are used -- the output from the trans is unbolted from the radiator and the appropriate fitting installed on the connector. The high pressure rubber line (in the cooler kit) is then attached to the metal stock line, run to the B&M. The other side of the B&M has the high pressure rubber line run from it to the stock cooler inlet (in the radiator). The stock metal return line from the stock cooler to the transmission is not touched.

As for external coolers being a waste of money, to each their own. Horsepower does not dictate if you need one or not. Driving conditions, ambient air temp, etc. have far more influence than hp run through the trans (how often and for how long are you at "max hp" when driving?)

Remember, like engine oil, for every 10 degree drop in fluid temperature down to about 200 degrees F you double the usable life of the fluid.

[szh]

Anyone know how to flush or drain transmission fluid? I am also curious on what oil you guys would use on you transmission as well.

I am considering Royal Purple or Amsoil right now? Any other Suggestions. I heard RP is really nice on the transmission, smooth transitions into gears, but any experiences out there?

The process is described in the service manual (link is in my sig). A simple drain-and-fill will only replace about 50 to 60% of the fluid - best to use the powered flush system that dealers have, that cycles the gears under power to get more fluid changed out.

Most importantly, please be warned not to use anything other than Nissan Fluid J or S and do not add any additives either (the standard fluid has them already) ... you WILL void your transmission warranty if you use anything other than the latest Nissan fluid (or complete compatibles, like the ones made by Quaker State, I believe).

Please look at the service manual - there are clear, bolded warnings about this, in many places in the transmission section PDF.

Having been through an Infiniti transmission failure in the past, I can tell you that the cost of replacement is very high. On my old 1995 Q45, the cost (including labor) was about $2750 ... on our newer transmissions, it is likely to be closer to $4000 to $4500 if you need to replace.

Best to do a regular transmission flush at the dealer every 30k miles - that is my recommended approach for longevity and smoothness.

Z

[cruzad3r]

I used stock fluid and did a drain and fill. If you want to go aftermarket, you can do so for the front and rear diff. I used stock fluid for transfer case as well.

[GQM45s]

So I found this on the RP site.

Max ATF is a synthetic, high-performance, automatic transmission fluid. Its low co-efficient of friction and high film strength help to dramatically reduce heat and wear. Additionally, Max ATF is more oxidation stable than other transmission fluids for longer fluid life.

Max ATF significantly reduces heat to extend the life of your transmission. Automatic transmissions generate a great deal of heat and depend upon the transmission fluid for cooling and protection. More than 90 percent of all automatic transmission failures are caused by overheating; a 20°F reduction in fluid temperature can double the life of the transmission (Source: Perma Industries, Inc.).

Max ATF is fully compatible and can be mixed with other automatic transmission fluids; however, for the best results drain or flush the current oil and then fill with Max ATF.

MAX ATF IS RECOMMENDED IN VEHICLES REQUIRING ANY OF THESE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUIDS:
Allison C-4, TES-295 Mazda ATF-M III, ATF-MV
Audi G-052-162, G-052-990, G-055-025 Mercedes Benz 236.1, 236.2, 236.3, 236.5,
236.6, 236.7, 236.9, 236.10, 236.11
BMW 7045E, LA2634, LT71141
Chrysler ATF+, ATF+2, ATF+3, ATF+4 Mitsubishi SP-II, SP-III
Chrysler Mopar AS68RC Nissan 402, Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K
Ford FNR5, MERCON®, MERCON® V Shell 3403, LA2634
GM DEXRON®, DEXRON® II, DEXRON® IID,
DEXRON® IIE, DEXRON®-IIIF,
DEXRON® IIIG, DEXRON®-IIIH Subaru ATF, ATF-HP
Suzuki 3314, 3317
Texaco ETL-7045E, ETL-8072B, N402
Esso LT 71141 Toyota T-III, T-IV
Honda ATF-Z1 (except in CVT’s) Voith 55.6335.XX (G607)
Hyundai SP-II, SP-III Volvo Pass Car (4-6 Speed AT), 97340
(Construction Equipment), 97341
JWS 3309, JWS 3314, JWS 3317
Kia Red-1, SP-II, SP-III VW G-052-162, G-052-990, G-055-025
Idemitsu K17 ZF TE-ML, 03D, 04D, 05L, 09, 11B, 14A,
16L, 17C, TE-ML 14B
JASO 1-A
MAN 339F, 339 V1,339 V2, 339 Z1, 33

[GQM45s]

PLEASE NOTE:
Max ATF is NOT recommended for the following applications: Allison TES-389, DEXRON® VI, Ford Type F and MERCON® SP & LV, Honda DW-1, Hyundai SP-IV and NWS-9638, Kia SP-IV, JWS 3324, MAN 339 Z3, Mercedes Benz 236.8, 236.12, 236.14 & 236.15, Mitsubishi SP-IV and ATF J2, Nissan Matic-S, Saab 93-165-147, Shell M-1375.4 (ZF 6-Speed AT), Toyota WS (JWS 3324) and ZF TE-ML 14C. Max ATF is not recommended for use in any CVT or DCT applications.

ALSO are we using Nissan Matic-S or are we using Nissan 402, Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K ?

If we are using Matic-S then that is a definite hell no for RP in the transmission

[GQM45s]

Found the answer from another forum and with pictures of how to do it as well!

http://www.iscenem.com/forum/threads/28 ... n-and-Fill

moderator, can you post this on the FAQ/How To ?

[GQM45s]

Use Genuine NISSAN Matic S ATF. If Genuine
NISSAN Matic S ATF is not available, Genuine
NISSAN Matic J ATF may also be used.
c Using automatic transmission fluid other
than Genuine NISSAN Matic S ATF or Matic J
ATF will cause deterioration in driveability
and automatic transmission durability, and
may damage the automatic transmission,
which is not covered by the INFINITI new vehicle
limited warranty.

Straight from the Service manual - so question now is to use matic S or J ?

[The Bodyguard]

I had mine serviced at the dealership asst 60k and my dealership wouldn't do complete flush... They only do drain and fill!! They said it was too risky for internal parts to do a power flush! it wasn't very expensive either...

[cruzad3r]

Does it matter if both are acceptable? just get whatever available at the lower price.

i'm surprise at the dealer for passing on money on service; think about it though, if a power flush performed by Nissan/Infiniti dealer is going to hurt your car; why on earth was it invented at the first place.

[wingFeather]

I'm surprised they don't have a "fluid exchanger". Not a power flusher, it exchanges fluid under reasonable pressure.

Power flushers supposedly dislodge buildup which gets caught in all the wrong places causing trans failure.

[DeanM45]

I went ahead and started a new "how to" thread on my fluid change and B&M install:

06-m45-trans-fluid-change-and-cooler-in ... 62570.html

I have never used the "power flush" system for the reason mentioned above. Generally it would probably be OK but the problem is that the shops were getting people that neglected their transmissions and were having problems. Take it in for a power flush as a cure all and it made the problems worse so then the shop spends all of their time defending themselves. Good maintenance from day one is the key to success, not some miracle cure all power flush.

[szh]

I had mine serviced at the dealership asst 60k and my dealership wouldn't do complete flush... They only do drain and fill!! They said it was too risky for internal parts to do a power flush! it wasn't very expensive either...

Hmmm ... that seems silly for the dealership to say! Is it because they don't have the equipment perhaps? yeah, a simple drain-and-fill ought to be less expensive, by the way.

The "powered" transmissions flush is not like being under extra high pressure or anything like that. It is simply a system that keeps the car on and moves through the gears as the fluid is being exchanged. This causes a much higher percentage of the fluid to be actually replaced. I have been doing this every 30k miles on my 2003 M45 (now just under 129k miles) and it is doing fine!

A simple drain-and-flush only gets out somewhere between 50 to 60% of the old fluid. A good thing, yes, but not good enough.

I

[szh]

Good maintenance from day one is the key to success, not some miracle cure all power flush.

Agreed!

Z

[wingFeather]

The local Nissan dealer just quoted me $240 for a fluid exchange using a machine & they run a detergent through it. Tempting... but a drain & fill in my driveway would only cost like $35. Hmmm...

[DeanM45]

Detergent? That seems odd. Trans fluid has a REALLY high level of detergent. There is no way to replace all of the fluid in a transmission without draining the torque converter, dropping the pan (those two things will remove most of the old fluid) and pulling the valve body out. More than likely the above service uses the cooler lines to exchange the fluid which will always leave some residual old fluid (and additives in this case) in the trans. I'd be curious as to what type of guarantee/warranty they give with this service or if you have to sign a "waiver" of some sort that they are not responsible for any damage that it may cause.